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So like every person in the country with an early mid late 2000’s Chevy pickup and suburban, I have broken exhaust manifold studs. Complete failure on GM’s design in my opinion.
Anyway, it’s usually the back bolts near firewall naturally in worst possible locations.
I’ve heard horror stories of trying to drill studs out of aluminum heads, to having to pull and replace heads.
I didn’t care about mine being broke as it didn’t make noise or didn’t put exhaust fumes in cab for years. Until about 3 weeks ago. The exhaust ticking of the leak and fumes started on drivers side.
So I went for an estimate last week on a muffler and tailpipe. I asked the guy if he deals with the studs and he shook his head like it’s not even worth it for him. But to my surprise and delight he mentioned there were clamps that bolted to head and had a bolt that tightened against manifold to re seal the leaks. I never heard of it but went home and googled it. Sure enough Dorman makes them out of cast steel. Lots of positive reviews and YouTube videos.
Ordered both sides from Amazon.
Installing it is not for faint of heart. Lots of dropped parts and tools ensued. Profanity may have been used.
Even lost a bolt on one of the 10 times everything fell onto ground. Luckily I have a big bucket of extra bolts, nuts, washers, etc and found replacement.
Never seized the two bolts holding clamp to head. Used Loctite on bolt that contacts manifold. There are torque specs for all three. Good luck with that. Mine got the old that feels pretty good torque.
If motor was out of truck, you can get torque wrench on them. But if that was the case, you probably wouldn’t be using these band aid clamps.:laugh:

Upon completion of painful installing, it appears to have completely sealed my leak!:yahoo:
 

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Not just a chevy problem. I had to do a couple early 2000 fords. I was able to mig weld nuts onto a couple of the nubs of the studs. The heat from that allowed them to spin right out. I think I did have to drill one or two but they were in a location that I could. Not a job for the faint of heart.
 

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I spent 1300$ on my 2003 Youkon Denali and my son had to have his motor in his Hummer pulled to do it, ran him just over 2k. This sounds a lot cheaper and faster
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I spent 1300$ on my 2003 Youkon Denali and my son had to have his motor in his Hummer pulled to do it, ran him just over 2k. This sounds a lot cheaper and faster
Absolutely! My 02 is in it's dying days due to corrosion, etc. It's now a work truck. It runs good but i didn't want to spend a whole lot of money or whole lot of frustration and time trying to do it myself. Hopefully these clamps last the rest of it's life.
 

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Isn't this great? It is so wonderful to have these kind of issues that GM even utilized it as an advertising slogan for a number of years: "That great GM feeling!".

I owned one GM product. I learned my lesson.
 

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no problems on all 3(2000, 2005, 2006) of the chevys so far. fingers crossed on my 06, so far no sign of ticking.

now on my 98 ford f-150-had to have both manifolds replaced, but lucky no bad studs, i think back then i caught them early.

FIL-was not so lucky on his 90 something ford f-150---ford garage did his broken studs, by drilling them out. but...........they covered up there mistake of drilling into too deep, and within 15 miles of them giving it back, it got hot-well it left him sit-when the temp gauge showed hot and steam flying from under the hood.
he had it towed right back to the ford garage -all within an hr or so after he picked it up from there. they got him another head from the junk yard, and replaced it free then.
 

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This problem isn't exclusive to GM. I had a 2009 Lincoln Navigator L with a 5.4 V8 engine. It was a great vehicle and I used it like a truck. Around 100K it developed an exhaust leak on the passenger side. It was especially noticeable when cold and quieted slightly when it warmed up. It's suspected that water splashing on the right side manifold was causing the problem.

When I dug into it I discovered that a few of the exhaust manifold bolts were broken or extremely deteriorated. The driver's side was fine. :unknown:

So I decided to get into it. Removed the tire & wheel, inner fender and anything else that got in the way. Sprayed some PB Blaster on everything and let it sit for a couple of days. Unbolted the manifold at the head and the exhaust flange. Luckily, I was able to turn the broken bolt studs out of the head. One of them gave me a bit of a hard time due to the location but that was about it. The new bolts were an upgraded part number. The job was labor intensive and very challenging from a physical perspective. Ran it another ~50K miles before replacing it with a 2013.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
no problems on all 3(2000, 2005, 2006) of the chevys so far. fingers crossed on my 06, so far no sign of ticking.

now on my 98 ford f-150-had to have both manifolds replaced, but lucky no bad studs, i think back then i caught them early.

FIL-was not so lucky on his 90 something ford f-150---ford garage did his broken studs, by drilling them out. but...........they covered up there mistake of drilling into too deep, and within 15 miles of them giving it back, it got hot-well it left him sit-when the temp gauge showed hot and steam flying from under the hood.
he had it towed right back to the ford garage -all within an hr or so after he picked it up from there. they got him another head from the junk yard, and replaced it free then.
What motor you have in your 06?
 

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It's common on the Ford V10, also. Happened to both my truck, and my dad's- both with under 50,000 miles on them. I bet that the studs are made by the same company that GM used.
The shop that replaced mine and my dads, has seen many GM products with broken studs, and even Honda's. It's more widespread than one manufacturer.
 

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no problems on all 3(2000, 2005, 2006) of the chevys so far. fingers crossed on my 06, so far no sign of ticking.

now on my 98 ford f-150-had to have both manifolds replaced, but lucky no bad studs, i think back then i caught them early.

FIL-was not so lucky on his 90 something ford f-150---ford garage did his broken studs, by drilling them out. but...........they covered up there mistake of drilling into too deep, and within 15 miles of them giving it back, it got hot-well it left him sit-when the temp gauge showed hot and steam flying from under the hood.
he had it towed right back to the ford garage -all within an hr or so after he picked it up from there. they got him another head from the junk yard, and replaced it free then.
I had to replace a head gasket on a 2000 Ford Expedition (working on a Ford 4.6 is definitely not for the faint of heart or novice) and luckily the exhaust bolts all came out fine but some had the whole stud come out versus just taking off the nut. You are going to have this problem when dealing with dissimilar metals. Aluminum heads, cast iron manifolds, and steel studs/nuts. Great conditions for corrosion. I have had broken exhaust manifold bolt break on a Saturn before, not much fun to deal with. So far no exhaust issues with the GM trucks I have.


Good luck with the F150, hopefully you never have a spark plug launch out of the head on you. That's an expensive PIA to repair.
 
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