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I had a problem last Winter, the coldest for us in 10 years, where rats nested below the fuse box and chewed on the wires in back of the fuse box. Several wire strands were broken and shorted. Symptoms for me was no guages displayed and no click from the starter or fuel solenoids. I replaced all fuses, check battery connections, and load tested the battery as the manual suggested. Dealer pulled fuse box and saw wires and rats nest.

Now it's Spring and I've gotten all the excess deer corn in feeders and thought I killed all the rats in the tractor shed. Tried to start last weekend (4/1/18) and had guages, but no activation of fuel solenoid. I pulled fuse box and sure enough, the wires were chewed again and the black wire to the fuel solenoid fuse had about an inch of wire missing. Does anyone know of anyplace where I can order the John Deere wires in the correct diameters and colors?
 

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Wire R Wire. Red is red. Black is black. Etc. As long as the gauge is correct and the insulation is rated for the voltage (not going to be an issue in low voltage applications like this), it will work.

Manufacturers purchase wire to make harnesses the same way they purchase fasteners. Out of a catalog. Alpha, Belden and a jillion others make wire and sell through jobbers like Newark (now Element14), DigiKey, Mouser and countless automotive suppliers. The only time you'll run into any trouble is trying to buy the odd colors (e.g. violet) with a tracer (e.g. yellow) that you find when an assembly has more than 10 wires (I think that is the number of base colors for wire insulation). You can get them easily if you know where to look, just not at the local NAPA or TSC. There is no requirement that shades match from manufacturer to manufacturer and they can even vary from batch to batch from the same supplier.

My opinion, if you are going to splice who cares if the color shade is an exact match? The fact that it is spliced is going to be way more noticeable than if the shade of green in the patch doesn't exactly match. If you're going to replace an entire wire, the color shade match is immaterial but you will have problems trying to source the pins and tools needed to disassemble the connector and crimp professionally.

Did I miss the point?

Al
 

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At over $500 for the harness.....yea, go buy half a dozen rolls of wire the proper gauge from somewhere like Amazon and you'll save yourself $450+. :bigthumb:

Oh, and spend about $20 on some new traps for them pesky critters. :laugh:
 

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I agree. I would get some wire and make some nice soldered splices with shrink wrap. Then you have more for the next time.....
This.

Splice, solder and seal your repair and mow on.
 
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Yeah you would be looking at a harness as they don't sell the wires. Not only expensive but probably a huge PITA to install. So much faster to cut out the old and splice in new.
 
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Many of the harness wires are the same color with the circuit number printed on them as a tracer. So it'll be tough to match that.
 
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If you don't have enough wire length exiting the power distribution box, you may have to extract the terminal and install a new terminal on the splice tail, from the harness. Here is a link to a thread that I authored that has sources for the various terminals utilized in the power distribution center:

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/102770-electrical-wiring-factory-cab-equipped-auxilliary-items-1025r.html
That’s a great resource! Should possibly be included in the Technical Library.
 

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Like others have said, Id buy the wire and make the repairs myself. Worst case you need a couple of the fasteners for the fuse box. Easy to do, but since Ive got a background in 12V wiring from years ago, maybe Im biased.
Anyway, solder connections from new to old wire, and heat shrink.

After you get it fixed, find some good traps and maybe some poison and get those things out of your garage.
If you cant do that, theres a product FreshCab I believe, that says it will keep them away.
Stay away from mothballs around plastics. They will harm them over time.

Ive had chipmunks chew the wiring on my trailer before, and fixing it is a PITA. Not to mention chipmunks do a massive amount of damage to walkways and foundations near a house with their burrowing, but I digress.
Traps and or poison, but I prefer a poison (for mice) that wont kill animals that happen across dead mice (secondary poisoning). Better than that, I use Tin Cat traps that are live catch, but put the bait blocks inside those. They go in, eat the poison, and cant get back out. Easy clean up, and no dead mice in the walls or under/in other stuff.
 
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