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Hi everyone, I have over a 1000ft driveway, with a decent size parking area by the house/garage. My driveway has a couple slopes, goes over two creeks, and is never really truly flat anywhere. For example, right now it's gravel and in pretty bad shape and needs new gravel at least, and all this snow melt just goes down parts of the driveway like a little creek from the tire tracks imprinted in it.

I definitely need to do something this summer. I feel like it needs to be re-graded and build a solid base backup, and that I shouldn't just dump new gravel on top.

I really started thinking about having it chip and sealed, and it sounds like it can be done for $1 or $2 per sqft. It looks like that would be at least $10k almost though if its 8ft wide, and the parking area. Whew!

Can anyone give me any opinions on this? I just moved into this place last fall, so I bought it in this current shape, it's a 15yr old house, no idea what he did to upkeep the gravel driveway over the years. I'm not sure what it costs to regrade the entire drive and build it up just for new gravel even.

Thanks for any help!

-Michael
 

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Hi everyone, I have over a 1000ft driveway, with a decent size parking area by the house/garage. My driveway has a couple slopes, goes over two creeks, and is never really truly flat anywhere. For example, right now it's gravel and in pretty bad shape and needs new gravel at least, and all this snow melt just goes down parts of the driveway like a little creek from the tire tracks imprinted in it.

I definitely need to do something this summer. I feel like it needs to be re-graded and build a solid base backup, and that I shouldn't just dump new gravel on top.

I really started thinking about having it chip and sealed, and it sounds like it can be done for $1 or $2 per sqft. It looks like that would be at least $10k almost though if its 8ft wide, and the parking area. Whew!

Can anyone give me any opinions on this? I just moved into this place last fall, so I bought it in this current shape, it's a 15yr old house, no idea what he did to upkeep the gravel driveway over the years. I'm not sure what it costs to regrade the entire drive and build it up just for new gravel even.

Thanks for any help!

-Michael
Before doing that I had the driveway at my old home "gravel" for a period of time prior to paving. I would dig out to see what you actually have as a base. If there is none, you might be better to dig it out and build it up. I had what is called Modified in my neck of the woods, on the top layer. went 4s and lost two truckloads in the mud, then 2 more loads on top of that. The next part was 2s, then a layer of the modified. On top of that I put down a 2 inch layer of fines only. mixed in calcium then compacted with the car and threw some more calcium on top. Made it hard as a rock.held up for 5 years until i paved it. no pot holes...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So normally the company that does the chip and deal would create a solid base for it, dealing with rebuilding a solid dirt foundation and whatever else they do?

Man, I can see this being expensive, but I need major rework done on it anyways before even just adding more gravel....
 

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What kind of tractor do you have? Fel or bh? If you have the fel. Dig about and see what you have. If you have access to mine rock you could dig it out yourself and have that hauled in. If you need a tractor there is a great reason to buy one for the better half!

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So normally the company that does the chip and deal would create a solid base for it, dealing with rebuilding a solid dirt foundation and whatever else they do?
That was the question I was going to ask. If the price you were quoted includes all that it isn't all that bad I think. Either way the base and mid layer needs to be repaired before any topping material is laid down.
 

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That was the question I was going to ask. If the price you were quoted includes all that it isn't all that bad I think. Either way the base and mid layer needs to be repaired before any topping material is laid down.
If I understand what chip and seal means to your contractor, that is what is done typically over a paved asphalt surface. to extend the life of the surface. Usually fills in the cracks and then they chip over it, then sometimes they respray to cover the chip to finalize it.

This was done years ago on a secondary road, almost every year. They do not hold up well. If you are going to put that on anything but asphalt, I feel you will be wasting your money. The layer that results is usually less than 1/2 inch per application. Now if they are going to apply 5 or 10 applications at the same time one after another, then it may make a good job, if you build the base up like I suggested. My drive is done similarly at my new home and paved, and is about 15 years old and still in great shape.
 

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First thing I'd be doing is what John Deere 1025R TLB said. Invest in a tractor. Doing that you should make sure to get a FEL, Box blade, and a disk/harrow. FEL, you can do a lot with. Box blade can level the drive and a few other things. Disk/harrow will tighten up the ground. I've had pot holes with standing water in them and ran a disk/harrow over it and when I got done the pot holes were gone and the ground nice and hard. Matter of fact my wife told me last year I better never ever use the disk on the garden again. She had a hard time planting and even harder time trying to hoe the weeds out. Now that I'm retired, guess who will be doing the hard work from now on. No, I will NOT be using the disk on the garden. :thumbup1gif: 100_0716.jpg My disk.
 

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If you are meaning the old school tack oil with stone chips layered on it, think on that one. Maybe check out some of the jobs they have done to see how it is holding up.
It is kinda thin. If you have any soft areas it will be disasterous. Especially if you get any deliveries of fuel, propane, ect with a bigger truck. The edges tend to crumble first. Frost heaves will crack it as well easily.
They have all but stopped that practice around here as it never lasts with alot of traffic. I'm sure in alot of sections of the country it is still used alot. Especially on rural roads as it goes down pretty quick without alot of labor or material involved.
Some roads have had multiple layers built up over the years, so after 40 years or so it's not that bad of a system as you have a thick base.
Don't get me wrong, i feel your pain. My driveway is about 1000' feet as well, maybe longer.
For 10K of oil chipping, i think i would spend that money on a better layer of crowned up crushed stone blend and drainage.
Asphalt would be great but you couldn't touch all that for 10.
Or maybe if you have a troublesome area like a hill, try just a section of the tar and chip for a couple years and see how it holds up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the feedback. Do you have any size hills on your 1000' drive?

I'm not sure if just my 1026 is enough equipment to redo the drive, even if it is I don't have the experience to know how to work it correctly. I'm only 25 and first time home owner.

So best bet is to find someone who can come out and assess what needs to be done I guess. What kind of company does that best?
 

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Thanks for the feedback. Do you have any size hills on your 1000' drive?

I'm not sure if just my 1026 is enough equipment to redo the drive, even if it is I don't have the experience to know how to work it correctly. I'm only 25 and first time home owner.

So best bet is to find someone who can come out and assess what needs to be done I guess. What kind of company does that best?
I gotcha.
Yeah, i only have one hill where it dumps out onto the county road. Heavy rain does cause rutting so i have to dress it up now and again.
I would look around and ask about a good local grading and excavating company. Find one, like in everything, that has some of their work to look out or former customers to talk to.
You can certainly maintain your driveway with a 1026 with a land plane, box blade, or rake.
Look on youtube for some tips on driveway maintenance.

I just got back from ordering 3 loads of crushed concrete to patch parts of mine for delivery tomorrow.:good2:
 

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About ten years ago we did our driveway in concrete. At that time Hot mix asphalt was $1 per sq ft and concrete was $2 per sq ft installed.
 

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If there are potholes in the drive they will continue to reappear unless you dig them out. Filling them in does not usually last. If your drive is subject to a freeze/thaw cycle, the chip-seal will not last for very long unless you do it each year for several years. My neighbor did it a year and a half ago and it has broken up and needs it again. Around here the freezing really takes a toll on chip/seal. Get a good box blade and work the drive over. There are several youtube videos on driveway/lane repair to show you how to do it. But, my gravel driveway needs regular maintenance especially after moving snow off of it all winter.
 

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About ten years ago we did our driveway in concrete. At that time Hot mix asphalt was $1 per sq ft and concrete was $2 per sq ft installed.

mbowen89-check with local paving contractors as well, for your length of drive if the base is good and just needs some work to make it ready to pave, a Hot mix Asphalt contractor may be able to sub the grading to a dirt contractor then pave it for you for less than you would be able to get seperately.


1000' isn't insurmountable, although it will cost you to do in any material of your choosing. Mine is near 700' and despite it being on pretty good base and having a good layer of crushed concrete to drive on I'm working on paving it in concrete a truck or two a year. Plowing and maintaining concrete is just so much easier than gravel.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, I think I'm probably just going to end up doing gravel I guess. I can spend a lot less money and make it a "really nice" gravel driveway probably and then work on keeping it in shape, rather than spending $10k+ on something that might break down.

I think I'll go take some pictures to get advice on, and start a new thread on specifically figuring out exactly what I need to redo my gravel driveway.

Thanks for the feedback!
 

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I would look around and ask about a good local grading and excavating company. Find one, like in everything, that has some of their work to look out or former customers to talk to.

You can certainly maintain your driveway with a 1026 with a land plane, box blade, or rake.
I think this is key here. If your driveway is in severe disrepair hiring an excavating company to get it right is key - or renting the proper equipment to do it yourself. Getting a proper base, crown, and drainage takes a lot of muscle.

Then - maintaining it is fine with a SCUT and implements mentioned. I know around here my driveway needs some maintenance every spring - just wish the 2A stone wasn't so expensive!
 
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