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I just power washed my 60" mower for the 1023E. Prior to that I removed the drive over ramps to obtain access to the bearing castings, They were FULL of leaves and grass. The black plastic covers inhibits good cleaning out of this area. For cleaning a paint brush with Lysol works wonders with power washer. As a preclude to rust all the hardware is now stainless steel.
 

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I just cleaned my deck up today after vacuuming the yard for the last time this year. I quit using water several years ago to clean my decks.
There are too many places for water to pocket & cause corrosion. I stand the deck up on edge & lean it against something.
I then use a long blow gun to blow the grass & other debris from under the plastic covers & around the spindles.
I scrape the bottom of the deck & wipe the top down with a damp rag.
 

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I just cleaned my deck up today after vacuuming the yard for the last time this year. I quit using water several years ago to clean my decks.
There are too many places for water to pocket & cause corrosion. I stand the deck up on edge & lean it against something.
I then use a long blow gun to blow the grass & other debris from under the plastic covers & around the spindles.
I scrape the bottom of the deck & wipe the top down with a damp rag.
I've done both ways over the years. This year I pressured washed the deck and a few places still had to scrape. Then after setting up for several hours I greased the fittings . Either the same day or the next day I painted the underside of deck. For years then I would put a coat of the graphite base from TSC. This year my fil told me he has been using Duplicolor bed coating on his deck for the last couple of years . He told me his deck looks the best it has for years and he had been using the graphite for 5-10 years.
Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating, Black, 16.5 oz. Aerosol
 

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Hummm.... Just wondering if I'm the only guy that detensions his deck belt springs at the end of the season...? I unhook it from the deck end and hold it untensioned with a piece of wire from the spring to the hook... Crazy? But it only takes a couple seconds. :laugh:
 

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I've done both ways over the years. This year I pressured washed the deck and a few places still had to scrape. Then after setting up for several hours I greased the fittings .
I use the air from my backpack blower to clean my entire tractor everytime I put the tractor away after using it, even if I haven't used the deck. It's amazing how much leaf and grass debris ends up on top of the deck or other places even under the hood.

I grease all of the fittings BEFORE I powerwash the tractor, and then after power washing, I run the PTO, etc. and make sure the water is out and used compressed air if necessary. Once "dry", I give each zirk another squirt of grease simply to push any moisture out, especially in the older style front axle spindles on the 455 series as well as the front PTO shaft and MMM driveshaft from the mid PTO.

Probably a little overkill, but I feel by having the new grease in the item before powerwashing, it prevents some of the water from being able to easily get in. By pushing new grease in after washing and using compressed air, hopefully I have pushed any moisture out.

Seems to have worked so far. 2,800 hrs and counting.
 

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Hummm.... Just wondering if I'm the only guy that detensions his deck belt springs at the end of the season...? I unhook it from the deck end and hold it untensioned with a piece of wire from the spring to the hook... Crazy? But it only takes a couple seconds. :laugh:
I just use a rubber bungee cord to release the spring tensioner from the belt just to take the pressure off of the belt. I wrap it around the front mounting bracket on the deck and pull the tension off the spring arm. It's also an opportunity to get any debris out from under the covers as well as greasing the tensioner bushings.

On the other end of the spectrum, on Saturday, I saw a zero turn with a Kawasaki engine which had been run 550 hrs without ever changing the oil. It melted the dipstick completely off from the thread on cap. And of course, the owner was upset that this catastrophic engine failure "wasn't to be covered by the warranty".....:think:
 

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After cleaning the deck and sharpening the blades, I use kerosene or diesel fuel on the bottom of the deck and the blades. I soak a rag and wipe them both down. It works well.

As for the plastic covers.... I took them off and have now problem blowing the grass and leaves out with air.
:greentractorride:
 

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Hummm.... Just wondering if I'm the only guy that detensions his deck belt springs at the end of the season...? I unhook it from the deck end and hold it untensioned with a piece of wire from the spring to the hook... Crazy? But it only takes a couple seconds. :laugh:
No your not. I do the same thing. I unhooked the spring from the front bracket as well. I have the mower stored on furniture dollies under the back of my trailer. Bracket and springs sitting on top. Blades as well. Then I remember to sharpen them come spring.


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I just use a rubber bungee cord to release the spring tensioner from the belt just to take the pressure off of the belt. I wrap it around the front mounting bracket on the deck and pull the tension off the spring arm. It's also an opportunity to get any debris out from under the covers as well as greasing the tensioner bushings.

On the other end of the spectrum, on Saturday, I saw a zero turn with a Kawasaki engine which had been run 550 hrs without ever changing the oil. It melted the dipstick completely off from the thread on cap. And of course, the owner was upset that this catastrophic engine failure "wasn't to be covered by the warranty".....:think:
That is a shame , that it wasn't covered under warranty ! My gosh should have been able t go at least 600 hr :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
While the mower was all clean I decided to do some rust prevention. The pulleys, idler assembly, front gear box mount, are yellow zinc chromate plated finish. All prone to rust if you use the equipment with regular use. So I got some JD green paint and gave them 4 coats right over the zinc plating. I also cleaned off the gear box and removed the rust on the bare surfaces and shot it JD green too. All the bolts and nuts were starting to rust, so replaced them with stainless hardware.

For a high quality piece of equipment the rust was more than expected for 2 1/2 years old.

I have the same intentions for the snow blower too. I started off by recoating the 2nd stage housing area and the chute. Too many chips for rusting as I have a paved driveway, no stones.
 

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After cleaning the deck and sharpening the blades, I use kerosene or diesel fuel on the bottom of the deck and the blades. I soak a rag and wipe them both down. It works well.

As for the plastic covers.... I took them off and have now problem blowing the grass and leaves out with air.
:greentractorride:
Well Dennis, if you're having problems now, put the plastic covers back on. :lol: :laugh:
 
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