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Surely this has been covered long ago, and if so I apologize but I can't find the thread.

I just bought an RC2072 rotary cutter a few work-hours back, and I'm a guy who takes maintenance very seriously. So need-it-or-not I decided to grease the ujoints on the PTO shaft. No problem of course on the forward end of the shaft after dropping it off the PTO... but the aft end at the slip clutch is a whole other story. There's a big rubber(?) shroud that's in the way whichever I go. How are you supposed to access the zerk on the ujoint there?

The rubber(?) shroud has access plates on each side which seemed the obvious answer but despite a lot of twisting and turning the access plates don't seem to help much. I can't believe JD expects to take the entire shaft loose aft of the slip clutch every time you want to lube a ujoint, and because of the way it's attached neither does it make sense to take the rubber(?) shroud off every time.

Would someone who has cracked the code straighten me out?
 

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Surely this has been covered long ago, and if so I apologize but I can't find the thread.

I just bought an RC2072 rotary cutter a few work-hours back, and I'm a guy who takes maintenance very seriously. So need-it-or-not I decided to grease the ujoints on the PTO shaft. No problem of course on the forward end of the shaft after dropping it off the PTO... but the aft end at the slip clutch is a whole other story. There's a big rubber(?) shroud that's in the way whichever I go. How are you supposed to access the zerk on the ujoint there?

The rubber(?) shroud has access plates on each side which seemed the obvious answer but despite a lot of twisting and turning the access plates don't seem to help much. I can't believe JD expects to take the entire shaft loose aft of the slip clutch every time you want to lube a ujoint, and because of the way it's attached neither does it make sense to take the rubber(?) shroud off every time.

Would someone who has cracked the code straighten me out?
 

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I have a RC2048, and it sounds/may be similar.

The plastic or rubber shroud with the 2 access panels. Forget it.

On mine, I pulled the front half of the PTO shaft off the rear and set it aside. The plastic shaft guard that covers the rear shaft (the one that has a chain, to be able to fasten it to keep it from rotating) has a screw holding the outer (black plastic) guard to a white, locking retainer, near the rear u-joint. Remove the screw and twist the shaft guard to get it to remove from the locking tab and pull it back. The u-joint grease zerk is now accessible.

Hope this helps. I can post a picture later if you need.
 

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Kylew,
I was having the same issue getting to that fitting near the clutch gear box u-joint. I read your post and removed 2 screws on my rc2048 and couldn't get the cover to release and move out of the way. Finally got frustrated and removed the 2 top bolts of the clutch shroud and pulled that forward enough to get the grease gun to the zerk. This wouldn't be my preferred method and think getting that shaft cover out of the way may still be the best option. Is there any thing additional to add to get the shaft cover to slide? It looks like there are white retaining tabs that may be holding it after removing the screws. Thanks
 

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Tsk Tsk Tsk. Shame on you :laugh:
For the record I meant that I only removed the big toilet bowl shroud that covers the slip clutch :bigbeer:
 

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Kylew,
I was having the same issue getting to that fitting near the clutch gear box u-joint. I read your post and removed 2 screws on my rc2048 and couldn't get the cover to release and move out of the way. Finally got frustrated and removed the 2 top bolts of the clutch shroud and pulled that forward enough to get the grease gun to the zerk. This wouldn't be my preferred method and think getting that shaft cover out of the way may still be the best option. Is there any thing additional to add to get the shaft cover to slide? It looks like there are white retaining tabs that may be holding it after removing the screws. Thanks
They certainly don't make it very easy, especially on an implement that calls for grease with every use. :banghead:
 

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Kylew,
I was having the same issue getting to that fitting near the clutch gear box u-joint. I read your post and removed 2 screws on my rc2048 and couldn't get the cover to release and move out of the way. Finally got frustrated and removed the 2 top bolts of the clutch shroud and pulled that forward enough to get the grease gun to the zerk. This wouldn't be my preferred method and think getting that shaft cover out of the way may still be the best option. Is there any thing additional to add to get the shaft cover to slide? It looks like there are white retaining tabs that may be holding it after removing the screws. Thanks
Yes, the white retaining tabs hold the shafts outer cover. After removing the screw, twist the shaft cover a little to line up the slot in the cover with the tab, and you should be able to pull it forward. The first time I did mine it was stiff to rotate on the white tab part. I'll post a couple pictures in a few minutes.

Tsk Tsk Tsk. Shame on you
For the record I meant that I only removed the big toilet bowl shroud that covers the slip clutch
:lol: You're just a non-conformist Pat

Kylew,
I was having the same issue getting to that fitting near the clutch gear box u-joint. I read your post and removed 2 screws on my rc2048 and couldn't get the cover to release and move out of the way. Finally got frustrated and removed the 2 top bolts of the clutch shroud and pulled that forward enough to get the grease gun to the zerk. This wouldn't be my preferred method and think getting that shaft cover out of the way may still be the best option. Is there any thing additional to add to get the shaft cover to slide? It looks like there are white retaining tabs that may be holding it after removing the screws. Thanks
They certainly don't make it very easy, especially on an implement that calls for grease with every use.
No doubt. The plastic shaft covers even have plastic grease zerks on them. I tried squirting grease into them and all it does is make a mess inside. Doesn't even get grease down the inner part of the shaft where it really needs to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cut a hole

FWIW, my first solution was to take a 1.25 inch hole saw and cut a new access hole in the big bell-shaped shroud. It's still clumsy, but I can get to the zerk now without removing anything. I'm thinking that maybe a 90-degree grease fitting adapter may be helpful too, when I can get one, but so far it looks like this is always going to be a bad design issue? People who make maintenance hard to do just assure that maintenance won't get done.

The plastic grease zerks on the shaft shroud are just for putting in a little lube to make the shroud easy to slide fore and aft, I think. Certainly wouldn't think those would need as much attention as the ones on the U-joints.
 

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Here's a picture of the rear end of the shaft, and the front end is the same. Notice the slot opening to the right of the white tab. Also notice the plastic zerk by the screw.
View attachment 640398

Grab the bell end like shown, and grab the shaft end. Rotate one or the other. They are actually two separate pieces snapped together so they can rotate independently.
View attachment 640400

Line up the tab to the slot and pull towards you, and this is what you see. The grease is from greasing through the plastic zerk. Doesn't do a whole lot. While I have the cover off, I hand grease the shaft a little. There's a lot of clearance between the shaft and the cover so it doesn't take a lot.
View attachment 640402

You can use the hole in the top of the clutch cover to get the grease gun tip in if you want, or just go through the main opening of the clutch cover. Either way a flexible hose on the grease gun helps a lot because it is not a straight shot to the zerk.
View attachment 640404

And here's the zerk. Mine is on the backside of The U Joint. You can rotate the joint until it is upward as long as your blades aren't hitting anything to keep the gearbox from turning.
View attachment 640408

Sorry the pictures are rotated. I forgot to take them in landscape mode.
 

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I might have solved the mystery of the plastic grease zerks. The white locking retainer ring actually rides on a machined part of the drive shaft. The locking ring has little slots that appear to be in line with the plastic zerk, allowing grease to get between it and the drive shaft.
 

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:lol: You're just a non-conformist Pat
Yes sir, but my u-joints are well lubricated without any cussing :lol:
 

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Surely this has been covered long ago, and if so I apologize but I can't find the thread.

... but the aft end at the slip clutch is a whole other story. Would someone who has cracked the code straighten me out?
I too can't believe this is the design. Is there video out there or could someone make one? It would go into a vault of Got-To-See videos.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally Found A Solution that I'm Happy With

The initial idea that I posted -- a hole in the shroud -- worked sort of okay for just lubing the ujoint. Still clumsy (although better than the crazy factory design!) and had two flaws: I still couldn't get at the clutch when it came time to burn it in, and I couldn't remove the entire shaft to store it out of the winter weather if I chose. So I took that entire shroud off and replaced it with a simple hinged wooden box. Now I have the safety of a shroud AND the ability to lift the whole thing out of my way anytime I need to.

Can't even imagine how the factory couldn't have done something like that (or better) to start with.

I have photos but don't understand how to attach them to this? If you're interested either send me an email and I'll send them directly... or explain to this old duffer how to add photos to these messages. The FAQs give instructions that don't make sense.
 

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"I have photos but don't understand how to attach them to this? If you're interested either send me an email .... "

It's been a while since your last post, but I've tried everything to get to the grease zerk at the mower side of my RC2072 mower. I'm thinking about running it without the shield (which may not be very safe) so maybe your wooden box might work.

Now that it's been a year, how's the wooden box working. Maybe you're now able to attach pictures?

Any other ideas out there?

Thanks

George

 

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I have the RC2072. First thing I did was join Pat, the shield came off! Just stay away from it while running. I’m not fighting that thing every time I grease it. It’s a horrible design.
 
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