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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I'm looking for some advice on what I will need to connect a hydraulic top link to the rear SCV kit on my 1025R. It is the JD BLV10351 rear SCV kit and I have ordered the Agri Supply top link (Hydraulic Top Link-Tractor3 point| Agri Supply 90599) with the following specs:

Top Link Cylinder
Category 1
Working PSI: 3,000
Retracted length: 20 in.
Extended length: 28 in.
Bore: 2 in.
Stroke: 8 in.
Pin: 3/4 in.
Port Hole Size - 2 Holes 3/4-16UNF (SAE-8)
Rod Diameter - 1.25"
Rod construction: Chrome plated
For 3-point hitch

I'm trying to determine what I would need to build hoses that will allow me to use the top link with the rear SCV kit. I have done some searching but am not figuring it out, any advice would be appreciated!
 

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You just need two QDs, two hoses (either 1/4” or 3/8” in size), and a few a adapter fittings.

The QDs on the 3rd SCV are 1/2” ISO 5675 “AG” style.
You know the port size on the cylinder.
The shop that makes the hoses should have the adapter and QD fittings in stock. When you measure for the hoses, make sure you run the 3PH through it’s full range of motion to ensure they will be long enough, a piece of air or garden hose works great for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You just need two QDs, two hoses (either 1/4” or 3/8” in size), and a few a adapter fittings.

The QDs on the 3rd SCV are 1/2” ISO 5675 “AG” style.
You know the port size on the cylinder.
The shop that makes the hoses should have the adapter and QD fittings in stock. When you measure for the hoses, make sure you run the 3PH through it’s full range of motion to ensure they will be long enough, a piece of air or garden hose works great for this.
Thanks Kenny, that cleared it up for me! Two more questions, does 1/2" hose make any sense given the 1/2" AG connector size and does it need a flow restrictor?

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1/2” hose would be crazy, takes up to much room and does not bend well, that’s why I did not mention it. 3/8” is even more than needed for a HTL. Can’t answer about the restrictor, but you’ll probably not need one since you don’t have much flow-another reason you don’t need large hoses.
 

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I'll chime in to answer your question. 1/2" hose makes no sense since the flow rate is so low. 1/4" hose is sufficient. Keep in mind, 1/2" pipe only has a port size of about 1/4". Pipe thread is theoretically measured OD, hydraulic hose is measured by ID.
 

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I haven't tried my top link without a restrictor but I can tell you that with an .031 orifice, the adjustment is almost too slow with 3/8" hoses. I went with 3/8 on mine to keep heat down. Even though the top link has an orifice fitting and it's slow- I do like that I can fine tune the position and make very slight adjustments while grading that make all the difference in the finished product.

As for the cylinder.. it's the exact one I have. The ports will likely contact your tractor unless you mount it upside down or backwards. Make sure you get swivel fittings for the cylinder end of the hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I haven't tried my top link without a restrictor but I can tell you that with an .031 orifice, the adjustment is almost too slow with 3/8" hoses. I went with 3/8 on mine to keep heat down. Even though the top link has an orifice fitting and it's slow- I do like that I can fine tune the position and make very slight adjustments while grading that make all the difference in the finished product.

As for the cylinder.. it's the exact one I have. The ports will likely contact your tractor unless you mount it upside down or backwards. Make sure you get swivel fittings for the cylinder end of the hoses.
Thanks for the information! How long did you make your hoses?

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the information! How long did you make your hoses?

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Some pictures of the new top link for those that are interested. It seems beefy and well made, especially for the price. The tractor is going in Monday to have the third SCV installed. I told the dealer to go ahead and make the hoses if they can do it for $100.00 or less.


So according to the hydraulic force calculator at http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm the cylinder should do the following:

Cylinder Bore: 2"
Rod Diameter: 1.25"
PSI: 1990
Cylinder PUSH: 6252 lbs
Cylinder PULL: 3810 lbs

Not bad if accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The tractor is being returned tomorrow, the dealer couldn't do the hoses at the price point I was hoping for. There is a shop a few towns over that said they could so I will have them do it after I get the tractor back to measure for the hoses. I just need to decide if I want a 90 on each end. Any suggestions?

On another note, I had asked about the need for an orifice to restrict the flow and the dealer recommended against it. They said the third SCV on the 1025R is a variable rate valve (or some such) and the restriction isn't needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are some pictures of the installed SCV. Given the position of the lift arm for the 3-point I think I am going to route the hoses back, up, over, and down to the connectors. Doing that the hoses should measure 42" and 33" elbow to elbow respectively.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's a wider angle shot of the back of the tractor to get an idea of where the couplers are mounted.


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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I made my hoses (a bit to long on one of them but better than to short) and got it all hooked up and working. Could someone that has a rear SCV and hydraulic top link on a 1023E/1025R/1026R share a picture of how they routed the hoses? I am trying to find the most practical routing that prevents my lift arms from damaging the hoses. I'll try to post a picture later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here are some pictures with the top link installed. The hoses I made ended up being a bit long but it worked out as it turns out that routing them over the tool box bracket and back down keeps the hoses away from the lift arms.
 

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