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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Before starting, let me state up front that my knowledge of hydraulics is pretty much limited to knowing how to spell the word. :laugh:

On my wish list is an Artillian grapple & a TnT for our 1025r TLB. Guessing neither would get heavy day to day use - just a few days here & there during a year.

First the TnT. Seems like the go to place is Fite Rite. I'm positive that there's no way I could go wrong buying from Brian, but the lead time MAY be a roadblock.

In a perfect world, I would like to avoid dealing with hose connect/disconnect. A linear actuator like I have on my old Sears SS/16 3ph or Johnny Bucket Jr comes to mind. From what I've read, the forces on a top link would tear one up quickly. So then comes to mind a self contained hydraulic controlled by some sort of electric gizmo (solenoid?). Don't see any so far. So back to what everyone else doing, connect/disconnect hoses.

A good deal of my problem with the Fite Rite solution is the location of the valves. I don't like attaching them to the ROPS and cluttering that side of the operator station. Maybe could devise a way to put valve & TnT hoses on a separate "bar" that could be attached only when needed and only the feed/return hydraulic hoses would have to be connected.

Saw a video where the TnT used the FEL controller to operate - that seemed to be a cleaner concept to me. So now we're into my real flight of fancy. I'm going to need pretty much the same diverter-type valve for the grapple too, right? Conceptually could I use the same value & controls for a grapple OR a TnT? Guessing that would mean a 4 hose connect/disconnect for either. Is this just too far out or likely to cost as much (or more :laugh:) than the 2 separate entities?
 

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The biggest issue to overcome when adding valves and such is real estate, there just isn't any extra on these small tractors. Not only does the valve body take up space, the fittings and hose do to. The valves set on the ROPS is about the best solution there is, even the single SCV valve JD offers is mounted there becasue there just is no other place. A double diverter on the FEL controls is offered on the larger 3 and 4 series, but again it's just not feasible on a smaller tractor and have it both functional and out of harms way. There is no real option for an electric TnT setup, they are all hydraulic. If I remember correctly you have a backhoe right? If so then no matter how you cut it, plugging and unplugging hoses is a fact of tractoring-all the TnT bits have to be removed to attach the hoe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The valves set on the ROPS is about the best solution there is
I just don't want the valves on the ROPS all of the time. That's why I was thinking of putting them on a separate bar that could be attached only when using the 3ph.

If I remember correctly you have a backhoe right?
Yes, a TLB, but no MMM. In my flight of fancy, guess hoses used for BH would not be used. Maybe to be a little clearer on my fanciful vision, there'd be 1 valves set & controls which could be connected to either the grapple OR the TnT - not at the same time. ... unless there is a diverter for 4 hose sets. Nah, that'd got to be too expensive and I can't imagine both on tractor at the same time anyhow.
 

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If you want to keep things as simple as you can and be as cost effective you MAY be able to run a TnT cylinder off of long hoses from the single loader diverter you use to actuate the grapple. Just an idea here, no idea how practical or easy it would be-but it sounds possible in my head.

Install your Artillian (or WR Long, etc) diverter on your loader curl function. This gives you two hydraulic QD ports on the loader boom. When using the grapple plug in your grapple hoses. Install another set of LONG hoses on the machine from near the diverter QD’s (so you can plug them in there) to the area of the three point of the machine and tie them to your hydraulic top link cylinder of choice. If you want to use the top link, plug them in and use the diverter control to actuate it. Most of the time using a 3 pt implement you probably won’t be using the grapple and vice versa so while swapping hoses back and forth isn’t perfect it’s pretty simple and you could use both your implements and use only one hydraulic option for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you want to keep things as simple as you can and be as cost effective
You're seeing what I'm trying to say as my flight of fancy. Hopefully some of the hydraulics wizs around can say if this is a path worthy of checking out. Could be the length of the hoses would cause problems. :unknown:
 

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Hose length will not be a problem.
 

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If you want to keep things as simple as you can and be as cost effective you MAY be able to run a TnT cylinder off of long hoses from the single loader diverter you use to actuate the grapple. Just an idea here, no idea how practical or easy it would be-but it sounds possible in my head.

Install your Artillian (or WR Long, etc) diverter on your loader curl function. This gives you two hydraulic QD ports on the loader boom. When using the grapple plug in your grapple hoses. Install another set of LONG hoses on the machine from near the diverter QD’s (so you can plug them in there) to the area of the three point of the machine and tie them to your hydraulic top link cylinder of choice. If you want to use the top link, plug them in and use the diverter control to actuate it. Most of the time using a 3 pt implement you probably won’t be using the grapple and vice versa so while swapping hoses back and forth isn’t perfect it’s pretty simple and you could use both your implements and use only one hydraulic option for them.
Hey Balrog,

At first, I thought this was interesting but two things :

One, I'm leary of running hoses all the way from front to rear due to concerns of damage over time from shifting, getting pinched, snagging an object, etc. You'd have to find a rock solid mounting route that can accommodate all attachments being mounted.

Two, when using the TNT and depending on the type of 3pt work being done, might the operator want to take the loader off of the tractor altogether?

Just dreaming out loud here, but too bad the TNT valve couldn't be mounted to a quick hitch / iMatch (presuming you are using one) so it's automatically out of the picture when not using the TNT. There ought to be plenty of space on one of those.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
when using the TNT and depending on the type of 3pt work being done, might the operator want to take the loader off of the tractor altogether?
Not going to happen here. Might take bucket or forks off, but not loader.

Just dreaming out loud here, but too bad the TNT valve couldn't be mounted to a quick hitch / iMatch (presuming you are using one) so it's automatically out of the picture when not using the TNT. There ought to be plenty of space on one of those.
This is what I was describing by having a separate bar for the valves that was only mounted when needed. Yes, I do have an iMatch. Implements would probably be landscape plane, rock rake and possibly BB. No plans for PTO implements.

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So far, you guys are doing a great job of translating my ideas. Having some hope that they're not all that far-fetched now. :laugh:
 

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Not going to happen here. Might take bucket or forks off, but not loader.

This is what I was describing by having a separate bar for the valves that was only mounted when needed.

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So far, you guys are doing a great job of translating my ideas. Having some hope that they're not all that far-fetched now. :laugh:
So having 8 hoses running from a set of valves that is at least 8" wide mounted on top of a quick hitch and all 8 hoses have to be removed every time you put your back hoe on sounds like a good idea to you????

To be honest with you, what you want can indeed be done. But best expect it to cost more $$$$$ than your tractor and hoe combined.

This reminds me of a friend that is in the tractor business. Sold a customer a 3000 series size machine years ago. Well the customer was not happy with the controls on the back hoe, says he operates such and such type hoe (A big Cat excavator) and wants that type of controls on his hoe. My friend says "let's just get a cost on those before you decide that's what you really want." Well guess what, the guys complete rig cost about 26K back then, the controls that he thought that he just HAD TO HAVE cost 28K. The customer decided what he had was just fine.

You can do just about anything with an unlimited budget and enough time. All things to ponder after you ask people that do this stuff for a living and you get answers that are not what you want to here.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So having 8 hoses running from a set of valves that is at least 8" wide mounted on top of a quick hitch and all 8 hoses have to be removed every time you put your back hoe on sounds like a good idea to you???? ... You can do just about anything with an unlimited budget and enough time. All things to ponder after you ask people that do this stuff for a living and you get answers that are not what you want to here.
Gee Brian, think you're taking my thoughts personally as if I'm challenging you pros. Not the intent at all. This is just a forum where ideas can be floated even if they're nonsense, right? I've read a number of your posts on GTT and other tractor sites and appreciate that you know your stuff & are highly respected. Like I said at the beginning, my first choice would be to buy your high quality links. But maybe now I'm on your %$# list? :laugh:

Have 2 scenerios that I've dreamed up. One is just moving the valve set from being permanently attached to the ROPS to a separate bar used only when 3ph is attached. The rear hose pair normally used for the BH would instead feed the valve set on the bar; the 2 pairs for the TnT would be permantly attached beween the links and the valve set. I don't see this as THAT different from the "normal" setup. Just cleans up the operator's area for everyday usage. The grapple would be a "normal" setup with its own valve set and unrelated to the TnT.

The other is based on having the valves only in the front, using the "normal" setup for a grapple but having 2 pairs of hoses running to the rear for TnT as alternate connections. With that, there'd be 4 hoses to connect in the front for grapple use OR 4 hoses to connect for TnT use. Additionally, to use the TnT, there'd be 4 hoses to connect in the rear for the links. But doesn't the "normal" TnT setup have to connect 4 hoses in the rear too? So there'd be no diff there as I see it. The biggest benefit is that the operator area is simpler.
 

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Gee Brian, think you're taking my thoughts personally as if I'm challenging you pros. Not the intent at all. This is just a forum where ideas can be floated even if they're nonsense, right? I've read a number of your posts on GTT and other tractor sites and appreciate that you know your stuff & are highly respected. Like I said at the beginning, my first choice would be to buy your high quality links. But maybe now I'm on your %$# list? :laugh:

Have 2 scenerios that I've dreamed up. One is just moving the valve set from being permanently attached to the ROPS to a separate bar used only when 3ph is attached. The rear hose pair normally used for the BH would instead feed the valve set on the bar; the 2 pairs for the TnT would be permantly attached beween the links and the valve set. I don't see this as THAT different from the "normal" setup. Just cleans up the operator's area for everyday usage. The grapple would be a "normal" setup with its own valve set and unrelated to the TnT.

The other is based on having the valves only in the front, using the "normal" setup for a grapple but having 2 pairs of hoses running to the rear for TnT as alternate connections. With that, there'd be 4 hoses to connect in the front for grapple use OR 4 hoses to connect for TnT use. Additionally, to use the TnT, there'd be 4 hoses to connect in the rear for the links. But doesn't the "normal" TnT setup have to connect 4 hoses in the rear too? So there'd be no diff there as I see it. The biggest benefit is that the operator area is simpler.
You are not on any list of mine. The only list that I have is an order list.

Just about anything is ok on these forums. I guess that when I ask a pro at the top of their field about things that have to do with their profession and they give me an answer, then it becomes an "ok this can be done" or " I need to figure something else out" sort of thing. I suppose you are in the " I need to figure something else out" mode.

I hope that someone comes up with a reasonable solution for you. Then we can all learn from it. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just about anything is ok on these forums. I guess that when I ask a pro at the top of their field about things that have to do with their profession and they give me an answer, then it becomes an "ok this can be done" or " I need to figure something else out" sort of thing. I suppose you are in the " I need to figure something else out" mode.
I'm absolutely in the "I need to figure" stage. I'm posting here 'cause I didn't think I was anywhere near the stage of asking you "can this be done?". Really, I'm just trying to learn and not waste your time. It's quite possible someone else has tried to walk this road and found it to be a dead end. I put the original thoughts about linear actuators & self-contained hydraulics just as a background to my thinking.
 

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Hey Balrog,

At first, I thought this was interesting but two things :

One, I'm leary of running hoses all the way from front to rear due to concerns of damage over time from shifting, getting pinched, snagging an object, etc. You'd have to find a rock solid mounting route that can accommodate all attachments being mounted.

Two, when using the TNT and depending on the type of 3pt work being done, might the operator want to take the loader off of the tractor altogether?

Just dreaming out loud here, but too bad the TNT valve couldn't be mounted to a quick hitch / iMatch (presuming you are using one) so it's automatically out of the picture when not using the TNT. There ought to be plenty of space on one of those.
I realized the idea had some challenges, but I thought the potential merits outweighed them for the OP so I replied. If the OP states they couldn’t or wouldn’t choose it for whatever reason, or someone like yourself pointed our some fatal flaw, then so be it
 

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As I see it, it sounds like the rear SCV hanging on the ROPS all the time is something you do not want, so it needs to be removable.

Mounting to the ROPS is the best place as you need to be able to reach the control levers from the seat.

My rear SCV valve mounting bracket is bolted to the OEM tool box mounting holes with two bolts. It would be quite easy to use a bolting arrangement with wingnuts so it could easily be removed.

Of course, you would also need to put quick connects on the hydraulic pressure, power beyond and tank lines that connect to the rear SCV. When removing the rear SCV, you would have to connect a jumper hose between the pressure and power beyond lines. The tank quick connect could just be left disconnected.

You could also use two solenoid valves mounted to a dual port base mounted somewhere on the back of the tractor to control the TnT. The valve ports would need to be orificed with .030 orifices so the function of the cylinders would be slow. These would be powered by a rocker switch or push button control mounted to the SCV lever.

All things are possible, depending on the amount of money you want to spend. Of course the $$$$ has some to do whether you can do the job yourself or pay someone else to do it. :good2:
 

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I realized the idea had some challenges, but I thought the potential merits outweighed them for the OP so I replied. If the OP states they couldn’t or wouldn’t choose it for whatever reason, or someone like yourself pointed our some fatal flaw, then so be it
Sorry for any poorly chosen words on my part. I liked your train of thought, just had some challenges occur to me that I thought could move your ideas forward, or in some direction anyway.

:bigbeer:
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Been on the web searching, searching, seaching. When you find the right terms, all kinds of info's there. It's just the "finding" that's hard. :laugh:

This is my status:

My flight of fancy is just that. As I kind of expected, found others trying to combine stuff and giving up. Really liked the idea of using the loader control for the TnT as shown by Good Works Tractor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yuv4dlPoM28 though. Bigger tractor. Oh well. Didn't have much hope in the idea anyhow.

My safest route will be to order the kit from Fit Rite - just like I thought at the beginning.

Think I'm moving into 2nd stage of evaluation - The practical.

As I see it, it sounds like the rear SCV hanging on the ROPS all the time is something you do not want, so it needs to be removable.
So glad you're posting here. Have looked at your thread many times. My concern about the permanent mount is not aesthic. Many here seem to have a problem hitting the ROPS-mounted lights, so am speculating that this could be a potential problem. The tractor often works in heavy brush here, so we took our lights off the 2nd day to avoid the issue. What's your take? Also, hubby has some physical issues and sometimes grabs the ROPS in that area when on the BH.

It would be quite easy to use a bolting arrangement with wingnuts so it could easily be removed.

Of course, you would also need to put quick connects on the hydraulic pressure, power beyond and tank lines that connect to the rear SCV. When removing the rear SCV, you would have to connect a jumper hose between the pressure and power beyond lines. The tank quick connect could just be left disconnected.
Using wingnuts is what I've been thinking about also. Getting lost on the hoses though. I thought the 2 hoses that are used by the BH would be the only ones that I'd have to connect/disconnect. Don't know functions of each. Thought I'd have to have a QD on the new hoses to the SCV. Where's the 3rd hose? And the jumper? When the BH is off, I just join the BH hoses together and assumed would have to do same for the ones going to the SCV.

A stupid question: 2 valves are used for the TnT, right? How do the control handles work, that is, something like a switch with left for lengthen and right for shorten?

You could also use two solenoid valves mounted to a dual port base mounted somewhere on the back of the tractor to control the TnT. The valve ports would need to be orificed with .030 orifices so the function of the cylinders would be slow. These would be powered by a rocker switch or push button control mounted to the SCV lever.
Would this just be a direct replacement of the handle on valve or is it a special valve? I really don't think we'd need to use a rocker, push button or even a joystick, but it'd be nice to know up front if it's a possibility down the road.

All things are possible, depending on the amount of money you want to spend. Of course the $$$$ has some to do whether you can do the job yourself or pay someone else to do it.
Ain't that the truth. :laugh:

Really, I have one other serious consideration. I've felt fairly comfortable following posts & TTWT for the 1025r maint. When I've gotten stuck, GTT is there to bail me out. I am concerned that the TnT instructions may require more knowledge than I currently have. And poor Brian's probably not used to dealing with someone needing Hydraulics for Dummies. :laugh: It's really hard to ask for help when you don't know much about what you're doing in the first place - particularly wrt terminology. Any suggestions of what I'd need to learn? Hopefully not all the Hydraulics Basics in the sticky, but if that's what's needed...
 

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Been on the web searching, searching, seaching. When you find the right terms, all kinds of info's there. It's just the "finding" that's hard. :laugh:

This is my status:

My flight of fancy is just that. As I kind of expected, found others trying to combine stuff and giving up. Really liked the idea of using the loader control for the TnT as shown by Good Works Tractor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yuv4dlPoM28 though. Bigger tractor. Oh well. Didn't have much hope in the idea anyhow.

My safest route will be to order the kit from Fit Rite - just like I thought at the beginning.

Think I'm moving into 2nd stage of evaluation - The practical.

So glad you're posting here. Have looked at your thread many times. My concern about the permanent mount is not aesthic. Many here seem to have a problem hitting the ROPS-mounted lights, so am speculating that this could be a potential problem.

The mount and valves are every bit as strong as the ROPS, if you end up bending the control levers or breaking off couplers, you have other more important issues to be worried about, like ("I'M ALIVE" ) :yahoo:

The tractor often works in heavy brush here, so we took our lights off the 2nd day to avoid the issue. What's your take? Also, hubby has some physical issues and sometimes grabs the ROPS in that area when on the BH.

Grab bar?



Using wingnuts is what I've been thinking about also. Getting lost on the hoses though. I thought the 2 hoses that are used by the BH would be the only ones that I'd have to connect/disconnect. Don't know functions of each. Thought I'd have to have a QD on the new hoses to the SCV. Where's the 3rd hose? And the jumper? When the BH is off, I just join the BH hoses together and assumed would have to do same for the ones going to the SCV.

See the link provided below.

A stupid question: 2 valves are used for the TnT, right? How do the control handles work, that is, something like a switch with left for lengthen and right for shorten?

The control levers move left-right, left to raise-retract and right to lower-extend.

Would this just be a direct replacement of the handle on valve or is it a special valve? I really don't think we'd need to use a rocker, push button or even a joystick, but it'd be nice to know up front if it's a possibility down the road.

My experience has been that what I supply is about the best configuration for a reasonable cost. I have sold 2 valve sets with joystick controls. One of them asked to replace the joystick with the levers. The rockers and push buttons are for electric valves and not applicable or as desirable for the T&T application.

Ain't that the truth. :laugh:

Really, I have one other serious consideration. I've felt fairly comfortable following posts & TTWT for the 1025r maint. When I've gotten stuck, GTT is there to bail me out. I am concerned that the TnT instructions may require more knowledge than I currently have. And poor Brian's probably not used to dealing with someone needing Hydraulics for Dummies. :laugh: It's really hard to ask for help when you don't know much about what you're doing in the first place - particularly wrt terminology. Any suggestions of what I'd need to learn? Hopefully not all the Hydraulics Basics in the sticky, but if that's what's needed...
That's funny. :laugh: Ray's installation is excellent. About the only thing that I would do different is use hoses. I have simply had several issues-failures of hard lines on 3 separate tractors. Give me a hose every time.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/fit-rite-hydraulics/114898-fit-rite-hydraulics-rear-selective-control-valve-installation-1025r-oem-power-beyond.html
 

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That's funny. :laugh: Ray's installation is excellent. About the only thing that I would do different is use hoses. I have simply had several issues-failures of hard lines on 3 separate tractors. Give me a hose every time.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/fit-rite-hydraulics/114898-fit-rite-hydraulics-rear-selective-control-valve-installation-1025r-oem-power-beyond.html
:laugh::laugh::laugh: I luv steel lines!!! although, I do understand what you mean concerning steel lines. Most steel line problems are caused by incorrectly installed end fittings and rubbing the frame somewhere.

I did my own so I know how they are done and I know they aren't rubbing anywhere and I silver soldered the OFS fittings on the ends of the tubes. That said, hoses are much quicker and easier, especially if you cannot make your own steel lines. The steel lines on mine are definitely custom and would be hard to mass produce.

That is why I add in the instruction sheet that I compiled that hoses could be used and what hose I would use.
 

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:laugh::laugh::laugh: I luv steel lines!!! although, I do understand what you mean concerning steel lines. Most steel line problems are caused by incorrectly installed end fittings and rubbing the frame somewhere.

I did my own so I know how they are done and I know they aren't rubbing anywhere and I silver soldered the OFS fittings on the ends of the tubes. That said, hoses are much quicker and easier, especially if you cannot make your own steel lines. The steel lines on mine are definitely custom and would be hard to mass produce.

That is why I add in the instruction sheet that I compiled that hoses could be used and what hose I would use.
All of the steel lines that I referred to were factory installed lines. 2 on CASE 580 TLBs which cracked out on the loader untouched by any mounts and suspended in the air. Looked like flaws in the tubing to me, and various steel lines on my Mahindra 7520 which have been about impossible to keep tight for any real length of time. Nothing that I have made of done.

Not a big deal, just my own experiences. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
That's funny. :laugh: Ray's installation is excellent. About the only thing that I would do different is use hoses. I have simply had several issues-failures of hard lines on 3 separate tractors. Give me a hose every time.
So I'm out of the dog house ... for the moment at least? :laugh:

Ray's excellent instructions are why I'm concerned about the installation. It's like giving street directions to someone who's not able to read maps and only goes by "turn right at the 2nd stop light, then left after the 2nd blue house and right after the pet shop." I much prefer maps, but the "turn right"-style of directions is where I'm at wrt hydraulics. So, with your indulgence, let me describe the installation as I'm currently understanding it. I still want to have this valve setup to be removable.

Ok, my first trouble spot is the concept of the lines: pressure, power beyond, tank. When I connect the BH, there are 2 hoses, a male and a female - fluid in, fluid out. This is the power beyond line, right? Is the pressure line just like the power beyond, just a 2nd source? Or perhaps more accurately, the power beyond is a split off of the pressure line? Just guessing that the tank is used as an overflow or pressure relief, like on a water heater? So why doesn't the BH use this?

1. First, I ordered my SCV and mounting bracket from FitRite Hydraulics. I got 3 sections. Each has a detented float position. I installed 06 O-ring face seal fittings in the pressure, tank and power beyond ports of the valve assembly because I used 06 Flat Face Seal fittings and tube ends at all connections.
Are these fittings used because of solid lines? Since I'd be using hoses, would I need fittings? User supplied? Think hydraulic fittings are metal to metal and don't need anything like teflon tape or dope that is used for water, right?

2. Valve mounted to ROPS using the existing tool box bracket holes. I modified the tool box bracket and mounted the tool box on the other side of the ROPS.
Hey, I understand this. :yahoo:

3. Removed right hand cover next to the seat and right rear wheel. Remove SCV tank line.
Ugh, removing wheel. And just when I finally bought some wheel weights. :laugh: Guessing there's some sort of cover behind the wheel that needs to be removed too. Probably some posts on GTT on how to do it. Most likely can get through this.

4. Loosen the ORB jam nut on the OEM 90° fitting, turn the 90° fitting clockwise approximately 90°. Then attach an FF6602-06-06-06-FG Male Flat Face TEE w/ Female Flat Face Swivel O-Ring Run fitting to the OEM 90° adapter. Then re-attach the OEM SCV tank line to the 06 branch of the TEE. You will need to slightly adjust the OEM tank line so that it aligns with the branch of the TEE.
So we're adding a user supplied tee to provide access to the line for the valve. The middle part screws into the existing rigid line. The original elbow that the rigid line was screwed into is loosened then rotated clockwise 90°, retightened and connected to the female end of the tee - in plumbing terms, a compression fitting (but without a ferrule of course). Ray used a new rigid line to get to the valve. In the wheel well area, it looks silver, but on the outside it looks black - painted maybe? I would be using a user supplied hose (3/8" 100R17) with 06 Straight Flat Face Seal Swivel fittings on each end - unknown length at this point. To make the valve removable, I would have to add QDs in the line. Would I also need some sort of QD cap for when valve not connected or would the QD be enough?

6. Detail of Rear SCV pressure line. I removed and cut the OEM main SCV Power Beyond to Rear Power Beyond steel line at the appropriate location and silver soldered an FF319-06-06 Flat Face O-Ring Adapter to Braze Socket to this tube.
I attached the added Rear SCV pressure line to this OEM Main SCV power beyond line using an FF2403-06-06 Male Flat Face x Male Flat Face O-Ring Adapter. This will direct the oil from the Main SCV Power Beyond port to the pressure port of the Rear SCV. If the Rear SCV is not being used, the oil will flow straight through the Rear SCV and out of the Rear SCV power beyond port to the top Back Hoe power beyond bulkhead quick connect.
Now this is really scary to me - cutting a line. Don't think I want to even try this. Is there another way? Could be a deal killer for me.

7. Detail of Rear SCV PB line to top rear back hoe power beyond bulkhead (pressure feed for back hoe).
I'm lost here. Is something being done because it is to be a permanent connection? Can't I just use a QD to the BH feed? But then what about the other BH hose?

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So the tank line seems ok, but I'm not good at all with the pressure or power beyond parts of the installation. 1 out 3 is not inspiring. :cry:

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Edit: I've started watching Hydraulic Basics videos in the forum sticky. The first 2 (math & safety) were boring and not of much use. However, the 3rd (schematics) was interesting. Even dragged hubby in to watch: dinner & a movie. :laugh: But, from what I saw, I'm now thinking (in high level terms, of course) that the pressure line is coming from the pump, the power beyond is somehow split off of the pressure, and the tank is the "return" line back to the resevoir that feeds the pump. Is that close? I'm just trying to understand enough of the installation to feel reasonably comfortable that I can do it before ordering the kit.
 
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