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Discussion Starter #1
I test drove a 1025 R today and had a blast. It seemed more nimble than my X500!

Dealer gave me a good price on tractor/FEL. I'm trying to decide which rear attachment gives the best utility - rotary tiller or box blade? Both seem like they do a good job of leveling/smoothing out ruts/ hi-los, but the tiller doesn't finish that task but has other uses. Any thoughts experiences along these lines? Also seems like the quick hitch/Heavy Hitch is almost a no brained after watching some of the TTWT you tube videos. Thoughts?
 

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I've never used a tiller for smoothing out ruts - only for tilling. My box blade gets way more use then my tiller, so unless you have tilling to do, I think a box blade is a better investment. Also consider a land plane or landscape rake (with gage wheels). I don't have a land plane but hear they work real well for maintaining gravel roadways.

I use the box blade with the scarifiers to loosen the roadbed, then the landscape rake at an angle to smooth and crown the road.
 

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Yeah. You are basically comparing two different things.
I would say get the box blade as it's much cheaper and better just to fill, clean, smooth holes and ruts here and there. And make and or maintain a driveway
Get a tiller if you trying to do a garden.
Unless the land you are wanting to fix is so bad, tore up, and rutted and you want to smooth out all the land then maybe get the tiller. But know there will be nothing but dirt and mud and you will need to reseed for grass and stuff.

If you are even Contemplating the tiller for a garden get it right now with the 0% interest and pay cash for the box blade or add that also.
Last I checked the tiller was 2200-2500 or so and box blade was about $7-$800
Tractor supply has one a few memebers on here have and it's on sale right now for $1300
 

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My opinion get the box blade. Deere offers a BB2048L for the sub compact. It's a lighter 48" box designed for the sub compact tractors. If you want a larger one I suggest a larger tractor. I have a 72" Douglas box blade I use with my 1967 1020 which is around 40hp. I tried to put it on my 1025r with poor results. It would barely drag it and when it built up gravel in it we stopped. I have a friend with the BB2048L and he loves it even though it has it's limits he just takes his time. Good luck I am not trying to rain on your parade just trying to help you decide what you want. :good2:
 

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I'd buy a landplane over a box blade.

3025e
That's what I was told too at first but then I did a lot of research and if you can only buy one wouldn't you want the box blade?
 

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I love my box blade - it's like a swiss army knife for the back of the tractor. It gets used to cut ditches, maintain a 1/4 mi road, clear my kids RC car track, clear and level pads for my shed and a neighbors barn, put in a gravel drive for a friend, break up ice on the dirt road/driveway, shove back big piles of snow along the driveway to make more room........I wouldn't do without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My opinion get the box blade. Deere offers a BB2048L for the sub compact. It's a lighter 48" box designed for the sub compact tractors. If you want a larger one I suggest a larger tractor. I have a 72" Douglas box blade I use with my 1967 1020 which is around 40hp. I tried to put it on my 1025r with poor results. It would barely drag it and when it built up gravel in it we stopped. I have a friend with the BB2048L and he loves it even though it has it's limits he just takes his time. Good luck I am not trying to rain on your parade just trying to help you decide what you want. :good2:
That is actually my next question. The local Deere dealer only has the BB2048 and says it's what they sell with the sub compacts. I pointed out the 2048L in the catalog, but he said the 1025R has no trouble pulling the standard. I've no experience to either confirm or refute. ???
 

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That is actually my next question. The local Deere dealer only has the BB2048 and says it's what they sell with the sub compacts. I pointed out the 2048L in the catalog, but he said the 1025R has no trouble pulling the standard. I've no experience to either confirm or refute. ???
I started out with a 60" Box blade. I thought it worked fine but sold it because it was not quick hitch compatible. I then got an ETA 54" Box blade and it works great. I did not want a 48" because it is not wide enough to cover the wheel tracks.

I think 54" is the ideal width. The only situation where I think a 48" would be better is if the soil you work in is mostly clay - and then I am not sure that it really makes that much of a difference. With a larger blade you just can't fill it as much, but the actual volume of material that you move won't be any less than with a smaller box.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah. You are basically comparing two different things.
I would say get the box blade as it's much cheaper and better just to fill, clean, smooth holes and ruts here and there. And make and or maintain a driveway
Get a tiller if you trying to do a garden.
Unless the land you are wanting to fix is so bad, tore up, and rutted and you want to smooth out all the land then maybe get the tiller. But know there will be nothing but dirt and mud and you will need to reseed for grass and stuff.

If you are even Contemplating the tiller for a garden get it right now with the 0% interest and pay cash for the box blade or add that also.
Last I checked the tiller was 2200-2500 or so and box blade was about $7-$800
Tractor supply has one a few memebers on here have and it's on sale right now for $1300
The BB2048 was quoted at about that price. The RT1149 was quoted at$2k. I'm considering a garden or tilling in some good topsoil over this sand in a few localations. However neither is an urgent need. The current problem
is finding a 120R FEL, may be a couple of weeks...

I did get them to include the Imatch QH in the cost of the trailer, I'm not getting the MMM. Given the cost difference, I'm not sure I see a difference worth the 100% cost delta from a 3pt mower deck, if should I chose to get one in the future. ???
 

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...Also consider a land plane...
Replying to my own post...

Second thoughts about a land plane after seeing what they cost. You can get a box blade plus a landscape rake for about the same amount of money. There is no way I would trade my box blade and landscape rake for a land plane. If I had $1,500 and no idea what else to do with it, then maybe I would get a land plane.

You can get a 54" ETA Box Blade ($679.00) plus a 72" ETA Landscape rake* ($755) for $1,434. Compare that to a 72" ETA "Land Leveler" for $1,440.

*you really should get the gage wheels for the rake so that adds another $320.
 

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The BB2048 was quoted at about that price. The RT1149 was quoted at$2k. I'm considering a garden or tilling in some good topsoil over this sand in a few localations. However neither is an urgent need. The current problem
is finding a 120R FEL, may be a couple of weeks...

I did get them to include the Imatch QH in the cost of the trailer, I'm not getting the MMM. Given the cost difference, I'm not sure I see a difference worth the 100% cost delta from a 3pt mower deck, if should I chose to get one in the future. ???

I have the BB2048L Got my 1025 about 2 months ago or so. Never owned a tractor or box blade or used a box blade so I can't tell you if it's better for the L or not. So far I have no complaint on my bb2048L but also can't compare.
Depending on where your money is at and you thinking about a garden I'd get them to throw in the tiller with the 0%. You looking at $30-$35 extra a month at 5years. Or get the tractor supply one for $1300.

I would say you have to get the boxblade lik stated earlier. It does everything. When I'm not using it it's being used for weight as long as I'm not moving a lot of heavy stuff with the FEL.

As far as the 120r FEL I have no idea how long till it comes out but I believe you can pay now and get it installed by the dealer when it's available. I'd have trouble living without my FEL.


Mmm vs the 3pt really depends on your situation. These little 1025's turn on a dime. So if it's your only means of grass cutting I'd prolly shoot for the mmm. If you mostly open fields get the 3pt brush hog or finish mower. I have some open yard and lots of trees, pond, bushes, obstacle, etc so 3pt mower is out the question. And for the price of the mmm I can basically get a zero turn. Much rather the zero turn for grass cutting.


Check this out
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/8976-bb2048-bb2048l.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I have the BB2048L Got my 1025 about 2 months ago or so. Never owned a tractor or box blade or used a box blade so I can't tell you if it's better for the L or not. So far I have no complaint on my bb2048L but also can't compare.
Depending on where your money is at and you thinking about a garden I'd get them to throw in the tiller with the 0%. You looking at $30-$35 extra a month at 5years. Or get the tractor supply one for $1300.

I would say you have to get the boxblade lik stated earlier. It does everything. When I'm not using it it's being used for weight as long as I'm not moving a lot of heavy stuff with the FEL.

As far as the 120r FEL I have no idea how long till it comes out but I believe you can pay now and get it installed by the dealer when it's available. I'd have trouble living without my FEL.


Mmm vs the 3pt really depends on your situation. These little 1025's turn on a dime. So if it's your only means of grass cutting I'd prolly shoot for the mmm. If you mostly open fields get the 3pt brush hog or finish mower. I have some open yard and lots of trees, pond, bushes, obstacle, etc so 3pt mower is out the question. And for the price of the mmm I can basically get a zero turn. Much rather the zero turn for grass cutting.


Check this out
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/8976-bb2048-bb2048l.html
Well, the BB2048 seems well within the 1025R 3pt capacity, so I don't see a compelling argument to insist on the L version with the dealer.

I've got the X500 as a dedicated mower, which is one reason I'm not feeling any urgency for a mower on the 1025R. Except when I have to service the deck, then I'm wishing for the 1025R's auto connect deck... ;-)

Just heard from my SIL; he's offering to pitch in for the rototiller if I'll work on some projects for him.
 

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I have a 60" Massey box blade. I like the weight of it when scraping. I also like that it easily covers my tracks.
It has never stalled the tractor for spreading gravel but I did stall out once with all 5 scarifier teeth down and a full box with dirt.
Having used it now for about a year I don't have any interest in anything narrower.
I run a HEAVY (640#) 48" tiller with slip clutch and am very happy with it.
72" back blade is mostly for snow. I borrowed a 72" rake about a year ago and like it but need to add rear guide wheels.

Oh and enjoy your new tractor.
I can't believe we waited so long to get one.
My Dear Wife calls our TLB the "Power wheel barrow" or "Power shovel". :bigthumb:
 

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Will a 1025r pull a land plane??:dunno::dunno:
Yep I pull a 60 inch frontier with my 1 series. No issues actually pulls easier than a box blade of the same size as it doesn't hold as much material in it
 

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That is actually my next question. The local Deere dealer only has the BB2048 and says it's what they sell with the sub compacts. I pointed out the 2048L in the catalog, but he said the 1025R has no trouble pulling the standard. I've no experience to either confirm or refute. ???
My 1025R was delivered last week with a 2048L. It has no problem pulling it unless one of the shanks gets stuck on a big rock. The 2048L is lighter than the 2048 and has 3 shanks while the 2048 has 4 shanks. I wish I would have paid closer attention to the quote because I missed the "L." I would have rather had 4 shanks. I think the 1025R would handle the 2048 fine.

I also got the 120R loader on it. My dealer had those in stock and was out of the H120 loaders.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, pulled the trigger on a 1025R. Ordered with iMatch QH, BB2048, RT1149, and the 120R FEL, and 77x16' trailer. The FEL is the hold up. The dealer has checked through the system looks like 7/12 is the earliest they MIGHT be able to get one, provided they aren't already spoken for.

Question, what weights/brackets should I get? Considering wheel weights, but like the Heavy Hitch w/satchel weights. Thoughts, recommendations?
 
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Awesome. It sounds like you got a helluva setup Cyendry. Can't wait to see pictures.
Glad you was able to figure out what you wanted before the purchase. I didn't even realize there was a L. When looking up specs I assumed I had the heavier one this whole time lol. I joined this forum after my purchase. No regrets as I probably would have spent more and been divorced if I came here first lmao.
Before 2 months ago I never even had a thought of a tractor then all of a sudden I owned a 2016 TLB with bb2048"L"
I've never had any problem with my L so I'm good. You will have to let us know if you are happy with the heavier one.

Also check your vin and make sure you aren't getting an older tractor. Another tread I've been following if you haven't seen it.
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/118737-should-i-mad.html
 
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