[vtlmbrjack]

All,

I am the current owner of a 2032R. I have a loader, front mount blower, MMM. I have had it for about 5 years; decent all around machine for what I do with it. I have about 25 acres of property; 4 ish is field to be brush hogged and the remainder wooded. My property is flat so there won't be any issue of inclines. I have a skidding winch as well; 5 foot brush hog, etc. The rear implements are all 5 footers.

I am considering upgrading tractors and ditching the MMM and front blower. For the money I can add an inverted pull type blower and an actual dedicated mower for about the same price as adding a mid mount PTO, front hitch, etc.

I am torn between a few different machines. I know I want a tractor small enough to work in the woods; but that has enough rear end heft/weight to manage skidding a few trees here and there. I would also like to be able to cut trails in the woods. Due to being in the northeast I am considering Ag tires to be able to traverse through the snow in the field in the winter (Keeps width down as well). I know I won't be able to deal with 4 feet; but I'd like to be able to move reasonably through 12-24 inches. I understand that snow pack etc will matter as well.

The machines I am trying to work through are the 4044M/R (trying to figure out if the non removable loader is a big deal to me; I like the idea of being able to take the loader off for oil changes/maintenance); the Kubota L4701, and there is a Branson dealer local to me and they suggested a 4720h.

I am leary of the Branson just because of brand longevity, but they appear to be a heavily built tractor with a good feature set; obviously the cheapest of the bunch. The Branson dealer is a local family owned farm equipment dealer; mobile service is their trademark so I don't think they have a big facility like the JD/Kubota dealers. My dealer for JD is nowhere near the pricing that can be found on Mutton. Frankly the Kubota dealer here too is only offering the brand incentives and nothing extra. There is a Kioti dealer somewhat local too, but they don't really move off of MSRP either. Royal pain.

I bought a 1 series; upgraded to a 2 series and now I want larger again. This tractor should last me the next 10-15 years I hope. I am trying to future proof; keep a category 1 hitch, stay somewhat mechanically simple without a turbo, and get a machine that is more than what I need at the moment. I could more than likely live with a 3 series, but I don't want to have the same issue in 5 years. I also like the idea of cast iron transmission housing etc (4 series and Branson).

Any experience and thoughts are appreciated!

 

[JDLTG]

I have a 4044R open station. I upgraded from a 790. The 790 is slightly smaller than a 3 series. The 4044R is much more maneuverable than you think it would be. I can put it nearly anywhere I could get my 790. We have 200 mature oak trees on 3 acres of yard that I can get around just fine. I opted for the R because of the removable loader. The 790 had a removable loader and I liked the increased visibility with it off. I had the dealer add the Faster one point hydraulic connecter which connects all 4 hoses at the same time. I can pull up and drop the loader and be driving away in about 30 seconds. It’s the same time to reattach it. Yes, having the loader off is a big help to do maintenance and oil changes.

The R has several other features, one being the Hitch Assist. That allows you to creep the tractor forward/reverse from the rear fender and also lift/lower the 3 pt. It’s great for hooking up implements to the drawbar or the 3 pt. There’s also automotive style cruise control with accel/decel that I use when working or mowing the field. I have R4’s and sometimes I wish I would have gotten R1’s, but it hasn’t posed any problems so far. We don’t get much snow, so I’m not as concerned about the lack of traction. I did work up an acre of my 5 acre field last summer and I could pull the Frontier 6’, 13 tooth cultivator that was sunk in about 10” in 2wd.

I can’t comment on other brands as I never considered them. I had my 790 for 12 years and never had a problem with it.

If you think of anything else you want to know, ask away.

 

[ttazzman]

personally i think the 4044 would be a perfect size machine for what your talking about doing.....as far as removeing the loader on my 4500 the only time i remove the loader is for service and i only started doing it the last couple of years...........what i could not live with on the Ms is the loader control being up on the loader frame instead of at the operator station

 

[JDLTG]

what i could not live with on the Ms is the loader control being up on the loader frame instead of at the operator station

I forgot about that. On the loader mast is very awkward for me. You have to reach forward rather than it being right by your thigh. My friend has a 3025E with the controls on the loader mast and I hate using it because it’s a long reach to the handle and it’s very touchy. He’s used to it’s location, because it’s his first tractor, but he hates how touchy it is. It’s easy to dump things especially when using forks. My 4044R is very controllable in comparison.

 

[vtlmbrjack]

Thank you! I appreciate the first hand input! I am hoping Deere comes up with a decent sale between now and spring to really sell me on the R. I am also hoping the dealer treats me decently on the trade in and helps out there too. I never considered cruise to be an asset but while brush hogging I never thought to engage it on my 2032R. It's a bumpy ride so maybe the fancy seat on the 4 series will mitigate the bouncing a little bit.

The hitch assist seems like an awesome function even with the quick hitch. The maneuverability sounds perfect too. Waiting to hear back whether my dealer has or can get one in for me to test drive before I decided to pull the trigger on a machine.

The secondary reason for the Ag tires is the narrowness and; I'm hoping, ability to put aggressive chains on without needing wheel spacers. The guy I spoke with said he was pretty sure with R4 I would need wheel spacers to fit good chains in between the fender.

Random though; with the ROPS down do you think it would fit inside a standard 7' garage opening?

Thank you again; much appreciated.

 

[vtlmbrjack]

personally i think the 4044 would be a perfect size machine for what your talking about doing.....as far as removeing the loader on my 4500 the only time i remove the loader is for service and i only started doing it the last couple of years...........what i could not live with on the Ms is the loader control being up on the loader frame instead of at the operator station

I forgot all about the loader joystick. My current tractor is by my thigh and I love it. One reason I don't love the orange layout and pedal; not a deal breaker but not my preferred set up. Another check in the R column.

I think you're right; I could survive the maintenance without being able to remove the loader; but, in a perfect world I could removed it, get the work done, and reattach and be on my way.

 

[2mtrucks]

I have a 4044m. I went with this choice for a few reasons. In 30+ years of tractor ownership I have never had a reason to remove a loader. In fact I would say 75% of what I do with this tractor involves either the loader or the forks. I do some mowing with it a few times a year after our hay is cut. I’m kind of old and had never had a tractor with the features the R series offers. So since I am cheap too, I could not justify the extra costs. I actually traded a 5 series in on this tractor because the 5 was simply too large and too heavy to use around here. I’m happy with it and love the Yanmar diesel. My tractor is a PowerReverser as I am not a hydro fan. But I think most people would prefer a hydro. It is certainly simpler to use for loader work. I have found the quality/fit and finish of the 4 series to be excellent and also would not want an aluminum housing. Of all the tractors I have owned it is the first one I have never had to return for warranty work. I’m sure someone will correct me if I am wrong… But I think regardless of which for series /model you choose, the hydraulics and lift capacity are very similar. I purchased my tractor and every tJD unit I have ever owned from Muttons. They are only 20 miles away so I never considered shopping anywhere else. I guess I didn’t know other dealers priced so exorbitantly.

 

[PikeCoGreenTractorMan]

I'm curious about your aversion to turbos - they help squeeze out more HP; the one on my '05 4720 with 1030hrs has given me zero problems. I've got 9ft garage doors, with my ROPS down, door clearance has never been an issue, I'm not looking to join the ran my ROPS into the door frame "hall of shame". I use cruise on the flats but not working in the trees, where the FEL must be watched,

Brian

 

[vtlmbrjack]

I'm curious about your aversion of turbos - they help squeeze out more HP; the one on my '05 4720 with 1030hrs has given me zero problems. I've got 9ft garage doors, with my ROPS down, door clearance has never been an issue, I'm not looking to join the ran my ROPS into the door frame "hall of shame". I use cruise on the flats but not working in the trees, where the FEL must be watched,

Brian

Hi Brian,

My only aversion is A) Lack of experience, and B)Less mechanically under the hood to go wrong at a much later date. Cost/fuel also come to mind but aren't the real reason I was looking for naturally aspirated.

 

[vtlmbrjack]

I have a 4044m. I went with this choice for a few reasons. In 30+ years of tractor ownership I have never had a reason to remove a loader. In fact I would say 75% of what I do with this tractor involves either the loader or the forks. I do some mowing with it a few times a year after our hay is cut. I’m kind of old and had never had a tractor with the features the R series offers. So since I am cheap too, I could not justify the extra costs. I actually traded a 5 series in on this tractor because the 5 was simply too large and too heavy to use around here. I’m happy with it and love the Yanmar diesel. My tractor is a PowerReverser as I am not a hydro fan. But I think most people would prefer a hydro. It is certainly simpler to use for loader work. I have found the quality/fit and finish of the 4 series to be excellent and also would not want an aluminum housing. Of all the tractors I have owned it is the first one I have never had to return for warranty work. I’m sure someone will correct me if I am wrong… But I think regardless of which for series /model you choose, the hydraulics and lift capacity are very similar. I purchased my tractor and every tJD unit I have ever owned from Muttons. They are only 20 miles away so I never considered shopping anywhere else. I guess I didn’t know other dealers priced so exorbitantly.

Thanks for the input! The only reason the loader was a concern is because both of the tractors I have had have been catch alls. I use them for everything from the lawn, to loader work, to snowblowing (in front), etc. It has been a requirement and if I make the move up it would be an option if that makes sense. I love hydro; I can drive the manuals but I guess I'm lazy in my almost middle age haha.

I wish muttons was not 13 hours away from me. My initial quote on the M is 5500 more than what they have it advertised for. Granted, there are loaded tires, block heater, etc included in the quote; but that only applies to about 800 ish of the price difference.

 

[JDLTG]

with the ROPS down do you think it would fit inside a standard 7' garage opening?

Yes it will go under a 7’ door with a couple inches to spare. Of course that’s with R4’s, so you might want to check the height with R1’s. I have 10’ doors on the shop where I store it, so with the ROPS up, there’s 6” to spare.

My R4’s are 16” wide, so it would be difficult to get chains between the tire and the fender.

I did strongly consider a 4052R because it wasn’t much more than the 4044R. But I’ve had no regrets getting the 4044R. It has done everything I’ve asked of it and doesn’t lug down when pulling hard at all.

 

[2mtrucks]

I could definitely learn to appreciate the hitch assist. I still have to do it like it’s the dark ages. I know Muttons used to ship tractors all over the US. Something put an end to that. But I believe you can still buy a tractor there and have it shipped....but run the risk of your local dealer being uncooperative with warranty work. But you will like the 4series no matter which model you choose. And in that size and horsepower range I feel it’s a better tractor than Orange. Deere has a more reliable emission set up too. If you are going with hydro, Deere’s 2 pedal arrangement is MUCH easier to use and MUCH quieter. Not slamming Orange...I have one but it’s gear.

 

[ddinham]

I think you might find that the JD will have better resale value. Another thing to consider on the Kubota is the Hydro pedal. Yes, there is only one. Toe for forward and stop and look where to put your heel for reverse. Since you are used to the JD two pedal system, that might be hard to get used to. I much prefer the JD two pedal system.

Seems to me like the only choice left is to decide which 4 series. You stated you are not wanting to have to upgrade again anytime soon. Go with the 4066R and get it over with. Go big or go home. Seems like I remember reading on here where at least one person has upgraded from a 4044M/R to a 4066R. I originally started out looking for a 3 series cab to replace my 1025R, but found this 4066R cab and have never been sorry. If you are worried about size, as best I can remember, there is very little difference in length, but the 4 series is slightly wider at 6ft. The 4066R cab with R4 tires is 8ft tall, so I would expect that the OS would go in a 7ft garage door with the ROPS down.

Dave

 

[ddinham]

Thanks for the input! The only reason the loader was a concern is because both of the tractors I have had have been catch alls. I use them for everything from the lawn, to loader work, to snowblowing (in front), etc. It has been a requirement and if I make the move up it would be an option if that makes sense. I love hydro; I can drive the manuals but I guess I'm lazy in my almost middle age haha.

I wish muttons was not 13 hours away from me. My initial quote on the M is 5500 more than what they have it advertised for. Granted, there are loaded tires, block heater, etc included in the quote; but that only applies to about 800 ish of the price difference.

I resemble that. I mow my yard with a Befco 110 inch rear finish mower (RFM). I mow fields with a 10ft Rhino brush hog. I also have a 3pt 8ft tandem disk and a 10ft 3pt harrow. I went to a plow day earlier this month with my 2 bottom plow. I have a 65 inch Frontier box blade that I need to upgrade to a 8ft. The only thing left over from the 1025R. I use a 8ft hydr angle rear blade for snow, plus the bucket on the loader. I use the forks more than the bucket. I have to do everything with my 4066R as I have nothing else except for a 30 inch Toro that I use for trimming a couple times a year.

Dave

 

[vtlmbrjack]

I could definitely learn to appreciate the hitch assist. I still have to do it like it’s the dark ages. I know Muttons used to ship tractors all over the US. Something put an end to that. But I believe you can still buy a tractor there and have it shipped....but run the risk of your local dealer being uncooperative with warranty work. But you will like the 4series no matter which model you choose. And in that size and horsepower range I feel it’s a better tractor than Orange. Deere has a more reliable emission set up too. If you are going with hydro, Deere’s 2 pedal arrangement is MUCH easier to use and MUCH quieter. Not slamming Orange...I have one but it’s gear.

They told me they don't do anything with shipping anymore. I bought the 2 series I own from a dealer an hour and change away to save 5 grand. They have since sold out and the new company no longer sells tractors. I am finding that Deere has clamped down on competing dealers. Called one 2 hours away and they said I'd get a better deal at my closest dealer and didn't want to quote me. So. I guess I'm stuck with the price if I want the green one here. Which really stinks unless they treat me well on the trade in.

 

[vtlmbrjack]

No argument on the resale value. Orange and green paint hold their premium.


Aside from not having the budget to fit in a 66R I am pretty positive it won't pass review with the finance board haha. The only issue I have with going that high in power is that I would need all new implements relatively quickly I think. I would stick with the current setup; and potentially detonate them. Then have a much higher bill to replace them. I sort of pigeonholed myself when I purchased them thinking I wouldn't go over 50hp.

 

[ddinham]

Yeah, you are going to need implements with more beef, no doubt. But, I suspect that there is not that much difference in capability to "destroy" implements between a 4044 and a 4066. I think the biggest difference will be in what you can run with the PTO. I have upgraded all my implements except the 65 inch box blade and the middle buster plow. I have been looking for a heavy duty 8ft box blade, but all I have found so far that I could afford is light duty 8ft box blades. Still looking. I used the middle buster plow recently with the 4066R and immediately busted the shear pin bolt. I replaced it with a grade 8 bolt and used it carefully after that. It finished the job OK. However, I could not just let it dig as deep as it wanted to go. That would have "destroyed" it.

Dave

 

[ttazzman]

No argument on the resale value. Orange and green paint hold their premium.

resale varries by location ...but where i am...green is significantly higher than orange.....they both are much better than anything else

around here its hard to loose money on a green tractor if you take care of it.......seems like if you keep one at least 10yrs you can get all your money back or more...

there are some things i really like about the higher HP orange tractors but resale is a issue for me on them

 

[JDLTG]

around here its hard to loose money on a green tractor if you take care of it.......seems like if you keep one at least 10yrs you can get all your money back or more...

That’s true, I bought my 790 with 300 loader new, used it for 12 years and only lost $1500 on it. I probably could have sold it for more, but wanted it gone and took the first cash offer. My salesman told me straight up to sell it myself as the dealer would not give me that much for it. They wanted all the profits. But, this year there aren’t that many tractors available so trading might bring more.

 

[ddinham]

resale varries by location ...but where i am...green is significantly higher than orange.....they both are much better than anything else

around here its hard to loose money on a green tractor if you take care of it.......seems like if you keep one at least 10yrs you can get all your money back or more...

I have had my 4066R cab 6 years as of next month. I don't expect it will ever be worth less than what I paid for it. My neighbor's Kubota.....no.

Dave