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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new GTT. I've been on the sister site, WFM, for years. I was contemplating purchasing a used x749, but by the time I equip itmwith everything I need (rear PTO, 3-point, etc) I'm at the price of a new 1025R. I have to say, GTT has the most comprehensive information on JD SCUTs of all the forums I've been researching. So thank you for helping me to spend my money. You may have to help me stay married, too.

Originally, I was going to go with the 60", 7-Iron, mower deck. However, after reading a number of posts and reports of scalping issues with the 60" deck, I'm thinking I should order the 54" deck and that is what the posts I've read tend to confirm. On the other hand, I've read other reviews of the 7-Iron deck that heaped praise on it. Has something changed where the 60" deck would be the better deck? I really don't have room to store a mower only rider in addition the 1025R and the associated attachments.

The other options I'm going to order:

H130 FEL
47" Snow Thrower
Independent 3 circuit SCV
Cozy Cab w/glass doors
 

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Hi, I'm new GTT. I've been on the sister site, WFM, for years. I was contemplating purchasing a used x749, but by the time I equip itmwith everything I need (rear PTO, 3-point, etc) I'm at the price of a new 1025R. I have to say, GTT has the most comprehensive information on JD SCUTs of all the forums I've been researching. So thank you for helping me to spend my money. You may have to help me stay married, too.

Originally, I was going to go with the 60", 7-Iron, mower deck. However, after reading a number of posts and reports of scalping issues with the 60" deck, I'm thinking I should order the 54" deck and that is what the posts I've read tend to confirm. On the other hand, I've read other reviews of the 7-Iron deck that heaped praise on it. Has something changed where the 60" deck would be the better deck? I really don't have room to store a mower only rider in addition the 1025R and the associated attachments.

The other options I'm going to order:

H130 FEL
47" Snow Thrower
Independent 3 circuit SCV
Cozy Cab w/glass doors
You are very welcome for letting us help you spend your money !!! :gizmo:
I myself have the 54" deck and it mows my property very well (mostly flat) . It seems that the more hilly the terrain is the more scalping problems arise . The important thing is to have the deck setup properly . :cheers:
I'm sure others will chime in to expand on my answer as there a lot of folks here with a lot more knowledge than I have and most of all

:wgtt:from s.e. Texas !!!
 

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Yep, 54 does nice job. I'd get a 54 blower though.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, 54 does nice job. I'd get a 54 blower though.
Why are you recommending the 54 Blower?

Presently, I have two 455 AWS, both with 46 snow throwers, at each of our homes. With the diesel power, they've always done everything I've asked of them and throwing the snow a good distance has never been an issue. Width wise, they seemed to work well on the sidewalks. I've never utilized a two stage blower before. About the only thing the 46 struggles with is real wet snow, I have to spoon feed it in to avoid breaking sheer bolts, but moving slow creates issues with the chute plugging. We typically get one or two wet snowfalls a season here and, for the most part, I found the sweet spot where I don't have too many issues with the chute plugging. This year was the first time in several that I severed a sheer bolt.

Anyway, I was thinking the 47 Blower, assuming it would fit the sidewalks better. There isn't much of a price difference between the two, so I'd sure be interested in gleaning more wisdom as to why I should consider a 54.

I see you have the backhoe. I just didn't think I'd have enough use to rationalize it and storage space is an issue at this time. I'm thinking this series of tractors will be around for awhile, so if things should change in the future, I could add it then.

The cab is really putting me way over the top on what I had hoped to spend. Both of the 455s have hard side cabs. I relate cabs to A/C, once you have a house with central A/C or a car with central A/C (I'm showing my age), you'll never be without again. I apply the same logic to cabs.
 

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Anyway, I was thinking the 47 Blower, assuming it would fit the sidewalks better. There isn't much of a price difference between the two, so I'd sure be interested in gleaning more wisdom as to why I should consider a 54.

The 1025R is 47.2" wide. Most people prefer a blower that is wider than the machine itself is. Ideally, wide enough that you can use it and turn without tracking your wheels through uncleared snow.
 

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As has been said, proper setup is essential. Do it yourself if you are handy and you can save a couple hundred bucks. There is an excellent thread in this forum to help, it's the third sticky.

I like the 60" deck. Being wider it can get closer to trees and stuff. I have not had any scalping issues, even though my "lawn" is extremely uneven. I do mow at nearly full height though, so if you mow short I could understand having more problems. I used to have a problem with the downhill side mowing shorter than the uphill side which resulted in ridges. Adjusting the gage wheels one notch lower has alleviated that problem.

You'll also need to decide upon a deck lift method. Mechanical lift (standard), Hydraulic lift, or Independent lift. Be sure you fully understand the differences - don't let the dealer sell you something like mine tried to. Unless you have some special need, like needing to move the 3pt up and down *while* mowing, then you will do well with the "Mechanical lift". Which is poorly named because it is hydraulically controlled, in fact it is more finely controlled via hydraulics than the other two options which are additional costs. Also, both types of "upgraded" lifts can be installed later if you should develop a need for them.

Then you will need to decide if you want the Auto Connect PTO. Note that all decks (both of them) are called "Auto Connect", but neither come with the parts that will connect up the PTO to the deck, that is an extra cost. Without it you will have to kneel down and manually hook up the PTO shaft. Many of us have had zero problems with the auto connect PTO, and quite a few have had some problems. In my opinion, all the problems that people have had are due to sloppy setup - which is why I recommend that you do it yourself if you are up to it. It is not hard at all, just takes a couple of peaceful hours in a clean work area.
 

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I had a 1025R with a 60" deck. My lawn wasn't real flat and did scalp a little even with the deck set up right.
I stop using it want got a 54" zero turn mower. Much better than the 60" deck and better than the 1025R for cutting grass.
The zero turn is lighter less tire tracks, faster and easier to mover around objects.
 

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IMO go with the 54",, I owned a 1025 with a 60" , mower deck setup by dealer, by me , then by the dealer . Pins replaced with bolts, plus different parts replaced by Mother Deere. my back yard looked the worst I've ever seen. After having the PIA for about a year figured out if I dropped the wheels so they were 1/8" of so off my driveway yard looked fair. better but not as nice as the 54" cut.

Oh the 60 is a work horse, on level yards ,no complaints, mowing up and down the hill OK, mowing on a angle or across yard looked like SH__ __

Two of my friends bought the 60" ,one from a different dealer, both of them the same complaint. I talked with the one just the other day, he had to do the same thing either having the gauge wheels touching the driveway or 1/8" clearance. Both said they would NOT buy the 60" again.

Wish you luck ,
 

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Even with a cab you won't have A/C.
 

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My property is hilly out back and I mow some of the neighbors which have steep hills so I went with the 54" deck and love it. I have the auto connect and the mechanism takes only about two minutes to remove when it is time to install the snowblower. I have the "mechanical lift" controlled by the 3 point and I have not had any problems with it.

For my snowblower I went with the 54" because we do not have sidewalks--as you pointed out in your post. If I had to do sidewalks I probably would have gone with the 47".
 

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I have a new (mid summer 2016) 1025R and have both the 60" deck and the 47" snow blower.

I am "ok" with the 60 inch mower. My neighbor has a 1026R with the 54" mower, and I use it to mow his lawn for him since his health makes it hard for him to get outside. So - I have experience with both units. Honestly, I have had a few 'scalping' issues with both size decks if the right conditions are present.

I would STILL opt for my 60" because it extends a little further away from both sides of the mower, effectively moving the 1025R further away from trees and other obstacles which is a plus - because it helps keep you from whacking the folded (or erect) Roll Over Bar from hitting as many low hanging branches, etc.

There is one spot in my yard that I have trouble with 'scalping'.... and that is a long line where I had a trench dug to lay a water line from my well to my pole barn. The 'fill' settled a bit, creating a narrow 'dip' in the yard that follows the new water line path to my polebarn. This trench was dug at an angle across my backyard..... so, when I mow, I travel across this settled 'dip' in the yard at an angle so that each tire on the tractor crosses the dip independently, at different times as I cross it, creating a fairly pronounced 'back-and-forth' rocking motion of the tractor as I mow across it, if you can envision that. If I mow too fast a speed, that 'can' create a slight scalp every time I pass over that line in my yard.

The real solution is that I have to simply get some topsoil in and fill that settled line where my trench was originally dug. Other than that, Idon't generally have an issue with scalping. I mow 1.5 acres and have some good 'flat' areas, as well as some odd shaped hilly sections. Not much of an issue for me.

I will say that both my neighbors 54" and my 60" deck don't cut grass nearly as nice as a dedicated residential grade lawn tractor. I had a John Deere X340 with a 54" deck, and something about that setup cut twice as nice as either my neighbors 1026R 54" deck or my 60" deck.

The 1025R deck setups tend to 'blow' the grass over around turns, especially, and the grass can 'pop back up' in spots.

But again, if you mow around a lot of trees, shrubs, landscaping, I would personally opt for the 60" to keep the tractor further away from those obstacles. I especially like the 60" because it allows me to get the deck a little under overhanging pine tree bows while keeping my tractor from rubbing the branches. I am a nazi about keeping my tractor free of 'scratches' and looking nice. I am a 'regular' joe, so spending $23k on my 1025R (60" deck, 47" snow blower, and quick attach Front End Loader) was basically my 'corvette' play toy.... so I treat it well.

The 47" snow blower? Well, I attached it for the first time this winter and have only used it once. But again - my neighbor has the same snowblower for his 1026R and I used it extensively before buying my 1025R. It worked phenomenally and that is what I based my decision on. That, and my small pole barnwhere I store the unit has limited space - so saving a few inches helps. The one chance I have had to use the snow blower this winter went without a hitch as expected. The fact that the unit might be marginally narrower than my tractor proved no ill-effect in the effectiveness of clearing snow on my blacktop driveway. I love it.

Hope this helps - and best wishes to you on your purchase. This tracot is a beast, and you can do a lot more than you might imagine with it.

Edit: here is a video Imade of my 'maiden voyage' using my 47" snow blower. We only had about 4 inches of snow, so this was really 'light' to be using this verses my two other snowblowers: Ariens 2 stage 28", and a Toro paddle style. However, it blew the snow with absolutely NO feel of resistance, as if I was just running the auger and blowing 'air.' lol. This thing can handle VERY heavy snow without issue..... I used my neighbor's 47 inch on both his and my driveway for the past 4 years and it goes through deep/heavy snow like a champ.

This video has me doing a 'so/so' job snowblowing. I was really focused on making sure I had the unit attached correctly and was listending for any 'odd' sounds, etc instead of paying close attention to my snowblowing technique. My neighbor always had his snowblower installed each season by the John Deere dealer..... so attaching my snowblower this season was a first for me, so I was a little paranoid that I may not have hooked somethding up correctly.

https://youtu.be/u9HsDdIGtvw

EDIT AGAIN: PS - VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU GET YOUR NEW UNIT. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS DECREASE YOUR THROTTLE TO 'IDLING' BEFORE ENGAGING EITHER YOUR MOWER OR YOUR SNOW BLOWER, AND THEN SLOWLY INCREASE THE THROTTLE/RPM'S TO OPERATING SPEED. ENGAGING YOUR PTO WHILE THE THROTTLE IS CRANKED UP CAN DAMAGE YOUR PTO SYSTEM.

Hi, I'm new GTT. I've been on the sister site, WFM, for years. I was contemplating purchasing a used x749, but by the time I equip itmwith everything I need (rear PTO, 3-point, etc) I'm at the price of a new 1025R. I have to say, GTT has the most comprehensive information on JD SCUTs of all the forums I've been researching. So thank you for helping me to spend my money. You may have to help me stay married, too.

Originally, I was going to go with the 60", 7-Iron, mower deck. However, after reading a number of posts and reports of scalping issues with the 60" deck, I'm thinking I should order the 54" deck and that is what the posts I've read tend to confirm. On the other hand, I've read other reviews of the 7-Iron deck that heaped praise on it. Has something changed where the 60" deck would be the better deck? I really don't have room to store a mower only rider in addition the 1025R and the associated attachments.

The other options I'm going to order:

H130 FEL
47" Snow Thrower
Independent 3 circuit SCV
Cozy Cab w/glass doors
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Do it yourself if you are handy and you can save a couple hundred bucks.
Yes, I've told them not to include or minimize dealer setup in their quotes and leave the attachments in the shipping crates. I grew up in an automatic transmission shop and worked my way through college as an ASE certified auto mechanic. While that wasn't my career, I've always maintained my own vehicles, including my business trucks and have restored a few autos. So I do have a well equipped shop.

I've always been a bit of a perfectionist and seldom satisfied with anything that I hire out, so I've become adept at DIY and never flinched at purchasing the tools/equipment to do it right. With all the information you folks have so graciously shared here and the MTF forum, I'm confident I won't have any issue with DIY.

You'll also need to decide upon a deck lift method. Mechanical lift (standard), Hydraulic lift, or Independent lift. Be sure you fully understand the differences
Yup, I understand the differences. I utilized JD's online sales tool "The Build Your Own" to configure the tractor. Once you get into the options, there is a "Details" button within the option that links to actual excerpts in the sales manual. The sales manual does a pretty good of explaining options and in this case, the difference between the various lift options.

At first, I had selected the "Hydraulic Lift" and didn't think I'd ever need the "Independent Lift" and received the first quotes based upon that. Upon researching the forums and reading quite a number of posts, I came across one where the poster had ordered the "Hydraulic Lift" and late field installed the "Independent Lift" as he required it for some reason---which escapes right now the specifics thereof. I do know that reasoning resonated with me, because I change my quote parameters to include it---and it is a fairly pricey option. I just wish I could remember the significance---I may need to explain it if the bride performs an audit.:flag_of_truce:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
EDIT AGAIN: PS - VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU GET YOUR NEW UNIT. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS DECREASE YOUR THROTTLE TO 'IDLING' BEFORE ENGAGING EITHER YOUR MOWER OR YOUR SNOW BLOWER, AND THEN SLOWLY INCREASE THE THROTTLE/RPM'S TO OPERATING SPEED. ENGAGING YOUR PTO WHILE THE THROTTLE IS CRANKED UP CAN DAMAGE YOUR PTO SYSTEM.
I have an automatic transmission background, so I know exactly the kind of damage that can be done from such a practice. That is also a topic that has been much discussed in the garden tractor forums. Actually, the Operator's Manual for my 455s state to engage the PTO at full throttle. So I'd speculate that is where a lot of this may come from. I always dismissed it as a mis-print.

I purchased the second 455 when I purchased the second home, as my bride made a career move that required it. The first winter, no issues with the snow thrower. However, once we started mowing, she reported it would quit mowing after 10 - 15 minutes of use, she's d let it cool down and then mow for another 10 - 15 minutes and so on until she completed mowing. My bride is not technically inclined (we'll leave it at that), so I couldn't get much detail as to the symptoms. I couldn't get there for a week or so and by then she said it quit mowing all together.

I had a sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach, I was hoping for a loose or worn deck belt, but that feeling indicated I wasn't going to be that lucky. I was right, it was in the PTO. I traded tractors with her and brought the malfunctioning back to my shop at the other home. I performed a few hydraulic pressure measurements on the transaxle service ports and they confirmed the PTO clutch application pressure was low. This not only indicated an internal leak, but that and the symptoms my bride reported indicated the clutch disc/plates were burned/worn out.

When I pulled the transaxle cover, I found the cause of the leak right away. A portion of the PTO clutch hydraulic circuit flows through a passage in the rear cover. The port passage between the main case and the rear cover was sealed by a special oblong O-ring that was mangled and mis-positioned in the cover retaining groove. Someone had the cover off in the past, possible removing a rear PTO option, and did not position the O-ring properly or did not utilize Vaseline to hold it in place while aligning the cover on to the main housing dowel pins.

I checked the rest of the PTO hydraulic circuit with air pressure and found some minor leakage around the PTO brake actuator (O-ring seepage). What I feared most ($$$) came to be true, the PTO clutch discs/plates were worn well beyond the service limits from slippage. I about fell off my chair when I looked up the cost of the replacement disc/plate service package---$385.00!!! For three small plates and four small discs. In my days of automatic transmission work, these items wouldn't have amounted to more than $2.00.

So while a long winded response, you are absolutely correct that applying the PTO clutch at full throttle (excessive engagement slippage) will damage the PTO and result in costly repairs.
 

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My 2 cents worth... I opted out of the 54 or 60 mower decks due to the both the initial cost and various stories of scalping etc. I found a used diesel Zero Turn, put a couple of hundreds dollars into it and saved almost $1,500 bucks. I used it on a hilly and tree filled yard for almost two years (sold the house) and then sold the zero turn for more then I paid for it (Ill take the 1025Rto the grave with me.) I keep my equipment well maintained as well as cleaned after use so it was spoken for in hours of the word going out it was for sale.
My wife loved to mow, but didn't care for the tractor so life was really good!:yahoo:
 

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I am totally happy with the 54" on a hilly yard. I didn't use the MMM at all for 2 years and wondered why I bought it...Then I restored my Wheel Horse 520H(20HP Gas) and didn't quite have it finished by the time I had to finally mow....With reservation's I finally mounted my MMM on the 1026R...

I have never mowed with the WH again(Going to sell it), Lawn Tractors are like junk compared to the suspension , ride and power steering on the One. I love mowing on this thing!:cheers:
 

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On the x series and 425-455 yes engage the pto at full throttle

on series 1 , 2210,2305 and guessing all the larger tractors at IDLE.
 
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