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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking about using some of my steel in my pile at home to convert my $200 drag behind plugger/aerator to a three point mounted unit. I rarely use it now because I have to stop the tractor at the end of a 300 feet pull to raise it before turning to go back the other way. It may be too much work for my light duty unit, but I thought I'd post it here to see what others have done. I'll likely keep the wheels and just shorten the raise/lower arm so as not to interfere with the three point a-frame.

Here's a three point conversion of a drag behind harrow that an ag student used for a senior design project. The diagrams at the rear are useful for dimensions: http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1122&context=braesp

I have a bunch of square steel tube, 3/8" plate, pipe, benders, welding equipment, etc. It would not be too difficult to fab up a small frame and a-frame for the plugger. I bought 150lbs of concrete to make removable blocks for the plugger, and that got me to thinking about just converting it to three point before I form the concrete.

This is the cheap 48" aerator: Products > 48" Plug Aerator
 

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I did something similar for a friends dethatcher, to mount on a front quick hitch.
Ive long thought about doing what you are suggesting, but never have.

Basically, were I doing it, Id make the A frame first, or if you already have one, maybe you can figure out a way to make something that bolts to it to attach the aerator.
Really, you wont need the lower part of the A frame, just the two uprights, or more accurately, you only need the attaching points, not the A frame design. It could be an upside down T and do the same thing.

On that particular aerator, Id probably make some type of cradle that it would ride in. I wouldnt trust its frame to support itself and the added weight.
Maybe run a couple 2-3" wide 1/4" or thicker pieces, spaced about the width of the hitch, front to back with the front attached to whatever lift frame you come up with and the rear attached to the rear support going to the upper part of the attaching frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll mess around with it a little when I get home, but one of my ideas was to slip the aerator over the back of my carry all frame. If the tines and spacing are correct, then maybe I could bolt the top tray to the carry all members.
 

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I'll mess around with it a little when I get home, but one of my ideas was to slip the aerator over the back of my carry all frame. If the tines and spacing are correct, then maybe I could bolt the top tray to the carry all members.
Thats a great idea, and wouldnt take much. Youd just have to have a way to secure it, and Id guess you could just drill through existing holes on the carryall frame into the aerator.
Heck, if the spacing isnt quite right, you could just do the opposite, put it underneath, and run bolts through both.
 

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Convert drag behind aerator to three point

This is my very first response to a thread, I just didn't want to navigate through the slow process of learning to do this and also refer frequently to the dictionary for spelling, but I have done the modification and maybe I can provide some ideas. I modified my Agri-Fab 48" Model 45-0299 Plug Aerator about 3 years ago when the tongue broke on mine. I cut the remaining tongue to fit inside the frame upside down to reinforce the center bearing, reinforced the frame with 1 1/2" angle iron, made the lower 3 point mounting brackets from 2" angle iron and installed three pillow block bearings. I bought the upper 3 point frame on craigslist, but it can be easily be fabricated from angle iron. It has worked great on both JD 2305 and 1025R tractors. It does limit all but slight turning, so you pretty much have to aerate in strait lines. Hope that this helps!
 

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I just did this to a pull behind ATV disc. I used my Heavy Hitch that sets into my Match as a example to make templates for brackets and the geometry. Now my ATV hitch is quick hitch compatible and is a dream to use, especially when I need to back up!

Took me about 3 hours and about $80 in steel plus the CAT 2 pins.
 

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I just did this to a pull behind ATV disc. I used my Heavy Hitch that sets into my Match as a example to make templates for brackets and the geometry. Now my ATV hitch is quick hitch compatible and is a dream to use, especially when I need to back up!

Took me about 3 hours and about $80 in steel plus the CAT 2 pins.
Here is a photo
 

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I'll mess around with it a little when I get home, but one of my ideas was to slip the aerator over the back of my carry all frame. If the tines and spacing are correct, then maybe I could bolt the top tray to the carry all members.
Will you be able to lift the carry all high enough to also raise the aerator so you can turn or clear objects?

My carry all frame at it's highest point is maybe 12" off the ground. I have never actually measured it, but I have a hard time visualizing anything functioning under my carry all frame and still obtaining clearance height. As a point of reference, I used the King Kutter frame for my carry all base.
 

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I'm liking all the creative ideas flowing here in this topic.:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I started fabricating last night. I'm going to make it like Danny D's. I'm using 1.5" angle, 1.5"x2.5" rectangular tube, and some bar stock. I could weld up a frame that bolts to the aerator, but I'm already getting tired of drilling holes in steel with my hand drill. I'll have to prep, prime, and paint the frame before it goes on the aerator. I need some new drill bits...
 

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Convert drag behind aerator to three point

wjfawb0,
After reviewing your ideas for this conversion and your list of materials I believe that your conversion will be more rigid and also weigh more than mine. That is a good thing! I am providing some more pictures that may be helpful during your conversion. Your pictures upon completion! O.K.? Maybe I'll upgrade mine after seeing yours!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've made some progress. Right now it's 1.5" angle around the edges, 1.5"x2.5" rectangular tube for the lower points, 2" c-channel underneath connecting front to rear, angle a-frame, and 1" pipe and 1.75" square tube for the diagonal. I played with my coping attachment on my drill press. I haven't used it for a while. Once the A-frame is fully formed and squared, I'll box it in and add more horizontal to strengthen it.

 

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Tow behind conversion

I went the weld free route in the spring with the big box tow behind aerator I had with my former riding mower. The receiver connection is a winch mount that I bolted to the weight pan of the aerator, only problem is that it started to bend a bit when I loaded up the Heavy Hitch with too much weight. Thinking I'll add a u-bolt along the square tubing to give it some more reinforcement...

IMG_0640.jpeg IMG_0641.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm waiting on some flange bearings from bigbearingstore to come in the mail so I can make the shaft a spinner. Factory setup with the wheels makes the shaft stationary and only rotates for the wheels to go down. I'm curious if Danny's zerx fittings are just really shallow to prevent them from hitting the shaft inside. I've made my frame so that the diagonal member bolts to the a-frame and back angle. By removing the diagonal and the shaft underneath, I should be able to disconnect 16 or so 1/4"-20 bolts and drop the frame from the aerator. I'l be doing that to strip, prime, and paint the new frame once I test it mechanically.

Don't worry, my rectangular tube has 1" sched 40 pipe crush sleeves inside for the lower 7/8" pins. I'm going to use some bar stock to stiffen the top 3/4" pin holes too. I probably should have used 1.5" or 2" square tube for the a-frame, but the 1.5" angle was on top of the stack. :D

Usually I'm pretty good at grinding cut edges to prevent lacerations, but I missed one Sunday night and ended up bleeding pretty good from running a thumb across one of my angles. I probably had a little too much iron in me anyway.
 

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Convert drag behind aerator to three point

Boonie, The creative ideas ARE flowing on this thread! I like Detroitlightning's approach as it eliminates loading weight on the aerator. wjfawb0's fabrication is also looking good too! Your curiosity about the grease fittings is correct as you suspected. I also had to resize some of the spacers between the bearings and the spool assemblies. I guess you will figure that out too. I used a disc sander to resize the spacers, that left very sharp edges so I also left DNA. But at my age I leave DNA on everything.
 
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