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Hi All,

Planning some preventative maintenance on our 1635 - a coolant swap to Cat ELC.

Want to flush out the low silicate green crap, and go with Cat ELC. Are you guys just putting in straight water, running to clean all the glycol out, the replacing with fresh coolant?? Or are you adding something to the old coolant to flush that way??
 

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Clean water is all I have ever used...no need IMHO for anything else unless there is another problem like rust or corrosion going on and you won't have that problem on your newer machine.
 

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Will,

How old is your tractor? I don't think mine are at the coolant flushing point just yet. And, what is Cat ELC?
 

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GEEEeezzz, I just checked my maintenance schedule and you are correct, every two years or 2000 hours. I guess I am due for some maintenance work, thanks for the reminder Will. I will probably just use Deere's coolant, I am funny that way. To answer your original question, I don't think I will flush the system with a cleaner, just drain and replace should be more than sufficient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GEEEeezzz, I just checked my maintenance schedule and you are correct, every two years or 2000 hours. I guess I am due for some maintenance work, thanks for the reminder Will. I will probably just use Deere's coolant, I am funny that way. To answer your original question, I don't think I will flush the system with a cleaner, just drain and replace should be more than sufficient.
Thanks Randy. I will just run fresh water through it, then drain and refill with fresh coolant.

Also will be doing another trans service by fall. Going to use Petro Canada Duratran synthetic.
 

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On my 1998 Kubota, in 2010 I change the coolant- it had been 5 years and it was filed last time with mystery antifreeze. I know, BAD PETE :nunu:. So I used some of the over the counter flush stuff and added it in. Ran the engine, drained, then filled with water and flushed again. Then it put in the JD pre-mixed antifreeze.

On the 4520, I'm coming up on two years. I'm on the fence as to test it vs. just change it (with no flush, I know where the radiator has been). It's one of those "it's so cheap to do, why not just change it" vs. figure out how to test and change when needed dilemmas. On my home generator (propane), I have the antifreeze tested each year and it can go for 4 years with no problems- but that's also low hours. I do UOA and radiator analysis each year.

I do know I'll have both tractors on the same schedule for both antifreeze and hydro oil just to keep things simple. The Kubota got hydro oil changed last winter, the 4520 gets changed this winter, then it's probably a 4 or 5 year schedule, TBD.

So for your machine at that age, I would not use anything but water. I suspect that it is more important to get things agitated and then quickly drain while particles are suspended than anything else.

The question I'd put to people in the know is for new machines (less than 8 years old????) would it be sufficient to get things warmed up a bit and pumping, and then drain quickly and forgo the water flush, or, does the water flush perform some key action?

Pete
 

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Pete, the water flush is not needed on newwer machines as long as you are staying with the exact same coolant. A water flush is needed of you are changing types of coolant. I too will be changing over to the CAT coolant in a few years. Its much more stable and easy on the system if it happens to get out of ph.
 

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I only use water to flush my 855, and I never have had a problem. I like to stay with John Deere products, I feel there may be a reason John Deere put things in or leaves things out that extends the life of the tractor and it's seals.

I remember (I guessing it's been more than 10 years now) I tried using Citco'diesel motor oil.

NAPA had a big filter and Citgo sale going on, even had Citgo reps there, so I took advantage of the sale and stocked up on oil filters and I think I bought some air filters too for the van and pickup. I noticed on a table Citgo Diesel oil was also on sale so I decided I would give it a try. Man I could not believe oil could make such a difference in engin power, it seems far fetched but it's true, the tractor even lost it's lugging power, it was like the tractor was telling to get this stuff out of me. I went back to John Deere oil, filters, hydraulic oil and gear lube and never strayed since. I do put and additive called Motorkote in the tractor, but it doesn't mix with the oil or change viscosity, it just uses the oil to get around the engine. I think it works but with all additives who can tell for sure. I been using it now for a couple years and it hasn't hurt anything.
 
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