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Discussion Starter #1
The x730 has no freeze plugs,so I'm going with inline radiator hose heater.are there brands out there you guys have had good luck with.i have to do something about these cold starts,it looks like this is the only real option.thanks.
 

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I just went out to do a inspection and take some measurements,it does not appear this is going to work.the hoses are very short,and there is very little space in there.i will have to get the heaters size,but things are tight in there.i just wish Kawasaki would have made it possible to install a block heater.
 

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I just went out to do a inspection and take some measurements,it does not appear this is going to work.the hoses are very short,and there is very little space in there.i will have to get the heaters size,but things are tight in there.i just wish Kawasaki would have made it possible to install a block heater.
Yeah, I don't think there is room. About the only option I could think of is custom hose that was longer and routed in a manner to get to a spot with room for a heater.
 

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Add a couple "T's" and smaller hoses?? :dunno:



What about a magnetic heater??
 

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I thought of a couple Ts as well. My concern would be where would you put them? Best option would before the thermostat so it pushes warm coolant into the engine. I would have to look at that line. Not sure if that is a rubber hose. The idea is you want to warm the coolant in the engine not the radiator. Also would it need a shutoff of some sort to make sure you get proper flow through the radiator to prevent over heating when the tractor is running.

Another thing to keep in mind that this is just with warming the coolant. That will get the engine running, but the hydraulic fluid is really cold and thicker than normal. So it will take a bit to get the machine moving. This is why I keep my X585 in the heated pole barn. It is no colder than 38 out there. Even then the hydraulics groan when I go out to plow. I fire it up, pull outside and let it run for a bit before plowing or running the snow blower.
 

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The block is aluminum. Not sure if there is a "pan". At least that is the case on my X585.
Good point - didn't know that. With the space constraints talked about this idea came to mind.

About the placement of a coolant heater - the obvious thing to do would be to find a good mounting location then adapt hoses to reach it properly. But...I don't know if these small coolant heaters have a circulating pump in them or not. With our VW TDI's we have a vendor who sells a passive coolant heater kit (with no pump) that is specifically designed (with proper placement according to the instructions) where the only force to circulate the coolant was by convection. Worked very well. Just thought I would add this because if these small coolant heaters are like that being passive the proper location is critical to proper operation.
 

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Good point - didn't know that. With the space constraints talked about this idea came to mind.

About the placement of a coolant heater - the obvious thing to do would be to find a good mounting location then adapt hoses to reach it properly. But...I don't know if these small coolant heaters have a circulating pump in them or not. With our VW TDI's we have a vendor who sells a passive coolant heater kit (with no pump) that is specifically designed (with proper placement according to the instructions) where the only force to circulate the coolant was by convection. Worked very well. Just thought I would add this because if these small coolant heaters are like that being passive the proper location is critical to proper operation.
Off Topic: But, hey you have a TDI as well. Kind of wondering what they will end up doing with my 09. It is about to go into the shop for about $4K in rust warranty work. I just got the $1K in Good Will stuff a few weeks ago. Then they still have the recall to deal with. Looking like they should have just bought back my car at this point.

The guy that makes that heater for the TDI is here in MN somewhere if I recall. I looked at them but don't normally park it outside and there is no place to plug in at work. Normally it is in the pole barn next to the tractor but this year the pole barn has been full with projects from the bathroom remodel we are in the middle of and about to get fuller with the Z950R that I am picking up from the dealer next week.
 

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Off Topic: But, hey you have a TDI as well. Kind of wondering what they will end up doing with my 09. It is about to go into the shop for about $4K in rust warranty work. I just got the $1K in Good Will stuff a few weeks ago. Then they still have the recall to deal with. Looking like they should have just bought back my car at this point.

The guy that makes that heater for the TDI is here in MN somewhere if I recall. I looked at them but don't normally park it outside and there is no place to plug in at work. Normally it is in the pole barn next to the tractor but this year the pole barn has been full with projects from the bathroom remodel we are in the middle of and about to get fuller with the Z950R that I am picking up from the dealer next week.
I am down to my one final TDI now - '99 New Beetle which is Mrs. Ct's ride. I used to have a few and also bought some in rough shape, fixed, and sold. I mostly concentrated on the '99-'03 with the ALH motor and of couse the Rocket Chip programs.
 

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I think its time to just heat the shed,it's well insulated.the whole tractor would benefit that way.did I mention I hate winter.
That is my approach. Even so, like I mentioned the hydraulic fluid is still cold so it takes a bit before things stop whining and hydraulics move really slow. I can't imagine this is good for it so I just run for a bit to warm up before plowing. The good news is that if it is snowing, odds are it isn't that cold. We get the most snow in that 20-35F range. If it gets colder than that, there isn't any humidity in the air so no snow. Warmer than that and it is rain.
 

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I wanted to know what to expect,,, so I tried to start my 650 at a carefully checked 31 degrees F.



It started with no assist,,, like it was a spring 72 degree day,,,,

I would imagine a 100 watt light bulb in a reflector fixture would get it to start down into the "teens",,,
especially if aimed at the air intake.

Luckily,,, I have no hydraulics in the drivetrain to worry about,,,
I am sure the lift would work just fine,,, :thumbup1gif:
 

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Finding a space for an in-line coolant heater may be tough. But I bet it can be done. You want to mount it low as possible. They do not have pumps (at least none I ever seen). They circulate water by the theory heat rises. And it does. These work the best.

Maybe you should look at these guys:

https://www.wolverineheater.com/faq.-a/252.htm

They make 50 watt stick on oil pan heaters.

Generac generators has one that slides over the oil filter for their air cooled units. They are 40 watt rated. Although I just installed one on my Generac and I'm sure it said 50 watts. Whats 10 watts among friends, right? Not sure if they will work on the John Deere oil filter. I should try I have both filters in the garage. Generac does have in-line coolant ones also for their line of liquid cooled units. I bet you can find something similar either way on line.

Good luck and use common sense with anything that heats up and uses 120 volt power. Read instructions carefully and when in doubt, ask someone. After 23 years on the fire department, I have seen some sad fires due to short cuts, red neck engineering, and simply not being qualified.

I mean no disrespect to your knowledge or ability. Just want to remind you as a friend to use caution. :thumbup1gif:

isaac
 

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They do not have pumps (at least none I ever seen). They circulate water by the theory heat rises. And it does. These work the best.
I mentioned the circulation type (with pump) since one of our old Deere loaders at work had one. Being not sure what all is available today I thought it worth mentioning.
 

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Deere has the coolant heater for the Yanmar thermostat housing so I am a little surprised they don't have one for the Kawasaki's as well. Regarding the slow hydraulics, I always make sure to run the Low Viscosity HyGard Fluid (I buy it in their 5 gallon buckets as I change it every 100 hours just to be safe). I have run the tractor plowing and blowing as cold as -22 air temperature. Normally I let the tractor sit and run for several minutes when it is that cold while I finish getting bundled up and having that last cup of Joe.

The tractors hydraulics are slow and stiff the first few minutes but return to normal after a few minutes. It has to be really cold (-10 or colder) for me to see any noticeable difference in the hydraulics and fortunately we don't have that happen very often. I think the idea of a heat lamp or similar under the rear differential of the tractor would likely help. My only concern is having a light or similar under the tractor when I am not around to watch it since the differential area is right below the fuel tank on many of the X series and even 1 series tractors.

The magnetic heater which CoalTrain mentioned would possibly work on the rear differential. My concern there is that there needs to be a real flat surface which will remain dry or the heater pad is likely to fall of while I am out plowing and banging around with snow piles. One other issue to always keep in mind with block heaters and such is that if your tractor is kept in an area where mice can get to it, they LOVE the heaters and will build nests right where you least want them.

The mice can construct quite the mouse condo just overnight to get close to the heater source. More than once I opened the hood to unplug the coolant heater to find the mice had built a nest on top of the engine and intertwined it with the fuel injection lines, etc. I would say that over night they built a nest that was about the size of a grape fruit, packed with grass, etc. all flammable stuff right next to the muffler so make sure to open the hood and check if you are using any type of tractor mounted heat source. :fire:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Just got done running a test,put a 1500 watt heater under engine bay for about 45 minutes.the temps last night right around 10 degrees,so a good cold start.i could not believe how this thing started WOW,I mean night and day.the hydraulic fluids still acted very cold,but engine started right up easy.but my shed is well insulated,and thank god I ran power out there.so I'm thinking if I place the heater a little different I might be able to help that hydraulic fluid some.so this is how I will handle my cold start problem.it should help the longevity of the engine.i really want this tractor to go twenty + years.
 

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Just got done running a test,put a 1500 watt heater under engine bay for about 45 minutes.the temps last night right around 10 degrees,so a good cold start.i could not believe how this thing started WOW,I mean night and day.the hydraulic fluids still acted very cold,but engine started right up easy.but my shed is well insulated,and thank god I ran power out there.so I'm thinking if I place the heater a little different I might be able to help that hydraulic fluid some.so this is how I will handle my cold start problem.it should help the longevity of the engine.i really want this tractor to go twenty + years.
Good deal! If you drape a tarp or something over the tractor on the opposite side of the heater it will help trap more heat underneath.

It would take the heater quite a while to warm up the transmission/hydraulic fluid I think.
 
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