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Almost every movable connection on my tractor is retained with either a Lynch pin, a hairpin or a bowtie cotter. The one exception is the connection between the 3ph arms and the iMatch frame. Those are old style split cotters. When my hydraulic top link arrives, I'll obviously be removing at least the top pin. Not a big fan of the sharp edges on split cotters, but not sure there's a low profile alternative for retaining pins that don't need to be removed on a regular basis.

Any thoughts or suggestions beyond just replacing them with the same?
 

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I have always routinely replace cotter pins and R-clips with lynch pins. I drill out the hole if necessary.
 

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There are smaller lynch pins that should fit just fine.

My fixed hook I Match has them...I forget if it came with them. I keep a few dozen of all the small sizes on hand for the mini ex buckets. I routinely lose them when working in the brush or with the narrow bucket.
 

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I replaced the cotter pins with circle lynch pin, not fan of them. Pliers are need to install and replace properly. I use the lynch pin that are found on other places on my 1026r. Always keep several sizes on hand from tsc.


2011 diesel 1026R mmm with FEL , box blade, wr long tooth bar , 4’ bush hog and 25gal sprayer all on the imatch hookup.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have one of the 3 tractors (all with imatch) set up with lynch pins, in order to remove the imatch w/out tools. This is for use with a 2 bottom plow when imatch is removed.
 

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Not in the majority

If you aren't going to be taking the I Match off, I'd go back with the cotter pins. As others have said, lynch pins can get popped loose and if that happens you've got a 2 ph and some unfortunate things can happen.

If you are going to be taking it on and off, get the strongest lynch pins or even better get a locking pin. These are an oversize version of a safety pin.

You can also use a bolt and self locking nut. Back when we use a plow the lower lift pins had a cupped shield and we used a bolt and nut because really bad things would happen if one side came loose and if the plow was set deep, the lift arms would get hit with corn stubble.

Treefarmer
 

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If there is a concern about the lynch pin being removed by corn stubble, or branches,,:flag_of_truce:
and you do not like the sharp edges on a cotter pin,,, :nunu:

how about a suitably sized bolt with two nuts?? :dunno:

"Jam" the two nuts together on the bolt, and the bolt will not come out until someone puts a wrench to the assembly,,,
 

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I have always routinely replace cotter pins and R-clips with lynch pins. I drill out the hole if necessary.
About 40 years ago a friend used a large cotter pin on an old power takeoff (PTO) and lost half his hand when a couple of days later he fell while the PTO was still spinning . . . I was helping him with the hay and drove him minus lots of blood and three fingers . . . he may have had a broken hand if he had used a lynch pin rather than a cotter pin

I have "zero tolerance' for cotter pins since then.

I gave my grandson a very old red wagon about 20 years ago . . . my daughter laughed saw she saw that I had replaced the cotter pins (5) with lynch pins
 
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My dad had a welding machine shop . . . after my friends accident any farm implement brought in to his shop had the cotter pins replaced by lynch pins
 

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If there is a concern about the lynch pin being removed by corn stubble, or branches,,:flag_of_truce:
and you do not like the sharp edges on a cotter pin,,, :nunu:

how about a suitably sized bolt with two nuts?? :dunno:

"Jam" the two nuts together on the bolt, and the bolt will not come out until someone puts a wrench to the assembly,,,
An alternative would be for the second nut to be a nylon nut as they should not fall off (undo) because of vibration
 
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Almost every movable connection on my tractor is retained with either a Lynch pin, a hairpin or a bowtie cotter. The one exception is the connection between the 3ph arms and the iMatch frame. Those are old style split cotters. When my hydraulic top link arrives, I'll obviously be removing at least the top pin. Not a big fan of the sharp edges on split cotters, but not sure there's a low profile alternative for retaining pins that don't need to be removed on a regular basis.

Any thoughts or suggestions beyond just replacing them with the same?

I've replaced them with bolts and lock nuts.. especially those that are seldom removed. Too easy for brush to get caught in them and jerk them out, which happened to me once. 3 pt arm slipped off and I was fortunate that a cast casing didn't get broken. Only use the lynch pin on the quick attach FEL to secure the bucket and forks. But even lost one of those once!

Bolts in 3 ph arms
 

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Some things are better when replacing cotters for something else. I have replaced alot of factory cotters with both lynch and hairpins, but some things I still use the cotter, and have no problems!

What is used to secure the bottom of the I-Match to the 3 pt arms? I don't see an issue with using the cotters to retain the pin on the bottom! The bottom cotter in the second pic is factory! But then again, I don't remove my I-Match.
 

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