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So I brought my tiller home yesterday without the driveshaft on. Didn't want to hook it up until i filled gear boxes with oil. So I have bolt in tiller end of shaft and the tractor end snapped into PTO shaft and I can not get the arms close enough to hook up. The shaft is completely collapsed. Do I need to shorten the drive shaft? If so how do I figure out how much?. I thought the yellow Countyline bolted right up to the 1025r. It's not like I need it today, but sure is frustrating. Thanks. Todd
 

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Corndog Hater
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I have a 4' KK tiller on my 1026R, but......
I originally used this tiller on a 2320 and the driveshaft was fine. Then I used it on an X728 and I had to shorten the driveshaft. Now it's on the back of the 1026R and I had to buy an extender. So I can't say for sure if you definitely need to cut it. Somebody should be along to answer. If you do need to cut it down, this was very helpful to me:

PTO shaft adjustment Tutorial - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

Good luck, let us know how it turns out. You will love that tiller!:good2:
 
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Yes - as CP says above you will need to cut the drive shaft down. This is common when fitting some regular size implements to sub-compact tractors.
 

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I'm no expert but from what I've seen while looking for a tiller this is a common situation. The tiller manufacturer can't account for every 3 point hitch config so the driveshafts sometimes need to be altered. My new King Kutter Pro tiller's manual has a whole section on sizing and cutting the PTO shaft. See p.18 if you want their instructions. I believe not every cat 1 3pt is the same. Only the width of the arms is 'standard'. Sometimes the height to the top link but not even 100% standard there. Apparently the length of the arms is not standard and obviously if you run a quick hitch that throws another wrench into the situation. But the good news is that the PTO shafts are easy to shorten and there are extenders if you need it longer.

Rob
 

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Great video from everything attachments, just makes me cringe when they do that stuff with out safety glasses....but that's just me.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
So I watched the videos and did some measuring and I have a 29" shaft and a need a 23" shaft. 6" seems like a lot to cut shaft down. I will measure it one more time then looks pretty easy at work to get done on a lunch break. Thanks for the videos and help.
 

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Your 1025R has cat 1 limited 3 point, I think. That may mean the arms are shorter than on a full cat 1 hitch. The tiller you have looks like a full size standard cat 1 tiller, not one made specifically for subcompact utility tractors. This could be why the PTO shaft is too long.

Rob
 
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I figured out another way to fix my shaft problem, but a quick hitch. It's? a HF special off Craigslist for $40. Seems to work ok so far. Unfortunately I have to rework my home made rear blade but no biggie.
well u beat me to it. but yeah i was gonna say get a i-match, and then u wouldn't have to cut ur pto shaft off-hopefully.
good score on the $40 hitch-oh.:good2:
 

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Just be sure that the shaft doesn't bottom out in it shortest position.
 

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Not sure about your quick hitch but the JD iMatch requires Cat 3 bushings. I would think yours would too, but you can measure and see. See chart for sizes. So, for a normal cat 1 implement you need bushings to size up 2 sizes. They make lower pin bushings (shoulder bushings) that do convert cat 1 --> cat 3 in one part. See my other recent thread about iMatch hitch for more details on those.



Rob
 
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Bottom "lift arm" bushings.... Cat 1 to Cat 3, pinned on style...

z1.JPG

"Top pin" bushings... Cat 1 to Cat 2, under a Cat 2 to Cat 3......

z2.JPG

z3.JPG

z4.JPG
 
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