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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
My 06 CT 332 Rubber track loader wont start after just working fine a few days ago. When I turn the Key it does NOTHING, I mean nothing! No familiar beep sound or clicking, just nothing. I figured bad battery since it is original (10 yrs!). so I replaced that. (It was very difficult because loader arms were in down position but I managed. (removed coolant overflow tank and bracket then cussed a lot!) But I got it. Result nothing. Then I checked fuses, and even replaced them entirely. Still nothing! I thought I heard the faintist beep from the beep that usually occurs when I turn the key on, on two occasions, but only for a millisecond, but otherwise nothing, what should I try next? fyi, the dashboard does work, lights on outside of machine don't, and funny sound that comes on when you sit on the seat still does that too. There is one code that says "alternator out of range or something like that, but my local mechanic says that occurred because I tried to jump start it with a battery charger in the engine start position.( I tried this before replacing the battery.) Please help!
Thanks
Kevin
 

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Hello,
My 06 CT 332 Rubber track loader wont start after just working fine a few days ago. When I turn the Key it does NOTHING, I mean nothing! No familiar beep sound or clicking, just nothing. I figured bad battery since it is original (10 yrs!). so I replaced that. (It was very difficult because loader arms were in down position but I managed. (removed coolant overflow tank and bracket then cussed a lot!) But I got it. Result nothing. Then I checked fuses, and even replaced them entirely. Still nothing! I thought I heard the faintist beep from the beep that usually occurs when I turn the key on, on two occasions, but only for a millisecond, but otherwise nothing, what should I try next? fyi, the dashboard does work, lights on outside of machine don't, and funny sound that comes on when you sit on the seat still does that too. There is one code that says "alternator out of range or something like that, but my local mechanic says that occurred because I tried to jump start it with a battery charger in the engine start position.( I tried this before replacing the battery.) Please help!
Thanks
Kevin
I'm sorry but I know NOTHING about the equipment you have. But I've messed with some older Bobcats and equipment in general. First you need to check to see if you're getting the basic voltage everywhere it should be going. Is the starter getting voltage at the main connection? Is the starter solenoid getting voltage when you turn the key to the start position? If the "dashboard" works but the other lights (I'm assuming head/work lights, flashers etc) won't work then you could have a bad connection at the battery, at the ignition switch, the light switch(es), and don't forget the GROUND side. The battery connections may be fine but THE OTHER END of the cable may have lost connection. Check where the ground cable connects to the frame/engine--gotta be clean/tight. If you have good voltage and connections then there is possibly some safety system keeping the machine from cranking, BUT I WOULD THINK THE LIGHTS WOULD STILL WORK. Without the manuals, voltmeter, and somebody who knows how to read/use them you're in a mess if these basic checks don't find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply!, I replaced battery and all connections are good. I replaced all fuses with new and tonight my neighbor verified there was power getting to fuses. The hard part is getting to starter when loader arms are down, so I haven't been able to do that. we tried lifting loader arms using another machine and hydraulic release lever but couldn't do it. I believe we followed release instructions carefully but couldn't do it. Then of course it got dark so we had to quit for the night. Every once in awhile key did beep when key was turned. After letting it sit for three days and turning the key today, it made the slightest attempt at actually cranking, then with in a millisecond it stopped and did not do that anymore. Going to try to lift loader arms again tomorrow. your thoughts?
 

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Hello,
My 06 CT 332 Rubber track loader wont start after just working fine a few days ago. When I turn the Key it does NOTHING, I mean nothing! No familiar beep sound or clicking, just nothing. I figured bad battery since it is original (10 yrs!). so I replaced that. (It was very difficult because loader arms were in down position but I managed. (removed coolant overflow tank and bracket then cussed a lot!) But I got it. Result nothing. Then I checked fuses, and even replaced them entirely. Still nothing! I thought I heard the faintist beep from the beep that usually occurs when I turn the key on, on two occasions, but only for a millisecond, but otherwise nothing, what should I try next? fyi, the dashboard does work, lights on outside of machine don't, and funny sound that comes on when you sit on the seat still does that too. There is one code that says "alternator out of range or something like that, but my local mechanic says that occurred because I tried to jump start it with a battery charger in the engine start position.( I tried this before replacing the battery.) Please help!
Thanks
Kevin
Hey Kevin,
so the code you mentioned (F974 Alternator out of range) is thrown when the system voltage exceeds 16v which is likely from the use of that jumper box you talked about. When you turn the key to the on position does your park brake switch light up? Have you checked the accessory relay? Have you tested your ignition switch to verify it is good? I have most of the manuals for my 317 which shares a very similar electrical system to what your CT332 is equipped with.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My dash only lights up ( and parking switch) for a split second after sitting awhile or getting in and out, then instantly goes out. so seems like something is shorting. I would like to find the relay, where is it?? I know where fuses are like I said. I saw something in operators manual about k24 relay (that might not be correct number cause I'm not near machine right now. but a relay, but don't know where it is. and How do I test ignition switch?
Thanks
Kevin
 

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Sounds like an intermittent/faulty ground and/or positive connection problem. Doesn't take much corrosion or a loose connection to cause loss of continuity.

Have you tried to run an external ground from the battery - to the engine(jumper cables would work)?

I know the starter is not accessible right now and I don't know if your + battery connection runs directly to the starter or not to cover the positive external connection.
 

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My dash only lights up ( and parking switch) for a split second after sitting awhile or getting in and out, then instantly goes out. so seems like something is shorting. I would like to find the relay, where is it?? I know where fuses are like I said. I saw something in operators manual about k24 relay (that might not be correct number cause I'm not near machine right now. but a relay, but don't know where it is. and How do I test ignition switch?
Thanks
Kevin
Kevin,
there are three relays right below the fuse box in the cab, you can access them by flipping up the cab. The manual doesn't very well identify the job of each relay but it should be one of those 3 relays. I am kinda curious as to if the machine has a power draw off of the battery, a short in the supply power wire to the ignition I would think would have some sort of draw on the battery. Test this by disconnecting your negative battery cable and hooking up a multimeter in line between the - battery cable and the battery post. You should see less than 50 milliamps of draw with the machine just sitting there. If you have a short on the power wire you may see a higher amperage. I have the ignition switch test saved on my phone but it will not cooperate with my computer, I will upload that here shortly for you. I would also be curious as to what voltage you have at the ignition switch, it should be close to or at battery voltage if I remember correctly. That beeper you were talking about typically has about 8v present with the machine just sitting there and it spikes to 12v when the key is turned on for about a second or two.
 

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Here is the testing procedure for the ignition switch per the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok guys, thanks to all for responding, its much appreciated. I think I have found the answer to the problem. I realized the only way to test further was to get those loader arms lifted up so I could then in turn flip the cab up and get at all those hidden components. Man there is not much you can do until you do that. so that involved using my excavator attached by chain to my front loader arm cross member and cracking loose the in and out hydraulic lines on each loader arm cylinder. Even with these hoses bleeding hydraulic oil out it still took quite some doing till I achieved the end result of outstretched loader arms. When I finally achieved this (in 95 degree heat) I laughed to myself thinking Ill bet this thing starts now, and I reached in and turned the key, before doing anything, and sure enough it did! Great! Now I felt worse not knowing what caused this whole snafu in the first place. So I started jiggling things around to see if there was a loose connection, starting with the relays, nothing cut out. Then I just barely touched the rubber cap covering the fuses and the machine immediately shut off! With the machine now off just touching first fuse and perhaps second I could hear the old familiar clicking and beeping associated with normal start up. Upon further investigating the first and somewhat second fuse were quite loose, even though I had never replaced or fiddled with them before. I guess years of banging around loosened stuff up. A neighbor friend who is an electrician helped to try and bend connectors a little to get tighter fit. It did not seem to tighten up much, but at least I know what problem is and probably can access it and give it a " wiggle" from inside the cab if there is a problem again until I can figure a tighter fix for fuses. suggestions welcomed. Anyhow I think we all solved the problem without expensive tow to repair shop. So again I am grateful to all and this forum. Thank you.:laugh:
Kevin
 

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CT332 question

New to the forum, found it using a google search for CT332 battery problems.
I bought a used 332 last summer, only 110 hours!

The previous owner (original owner) advised the security system (need to enter code to start) kills battery if not started/run for longer than about a week. In fact, he left the right side engine panel off, to allow him to disconnect NEG cable to prevent this. I am having the same issue. Have replaced battery and cleaned connections. Dead in 10 days. Suspect a short somewhere. I was a helo pilot, not a mechanic...

Can anyone suggest where to start looking? Dealer is expensive and I have to borrow trailer to haul an hour away.

Also if anyone had repair manual (not owner manual) on digits and can email, let me know.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Paul
US Army Retired
 
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