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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have a 2006 CT322 with codes F9P8 and F9D5. The starter will not crank to start.
I was using it the other day and after shutting it off I would have to wait a couple minutes for it to restart. Well, this weekend I was using and I shut it off to disconnect the Aux hydraulics and remove the grapple bucket and it would not crank to start.

I removed the battery terminals and cleaned and reinstalled. I plan to check fuses and raise the cab tonight.

When I turn on the key I get a solenoid click that seems to come from behind my left shoulder, when I turn the key to start all I get is a click that I think is from my starter (not sure).

Any ideas of what to check or do to trouble shoot this thing? Do I need to pull the starter to be checked and possible rebuilt? Are the codes stopping from stopping.

Could I jumper a hot wire from the battery to the solenoid (keyed switch input) to get it to spin?

Thanks in advance for the help
 

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A quick Google search comes up with "F9P8" being related to the parking brake.

"The F9P8 fault code indicates that the park brake output is open. If this fault is active the park brake will not disengage. Inspect the wiring leading to the park brake solenoid to make sure it has not come unplugged or been broken along the way, this will cause a no start."

And also:

"F9D5 code indicates that the coolant temp sensor input voltage is at 5.0 volts. The controller expects to see the resistance of the temp sensor draw the voltage down below 4.0 volts. This could indicate an unplugged sensor or broken wire to the sensor."
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
ok, so I was looking at it this evening and things turned for the worse.

I disconnected the parking brake solenoid. At least I think it was the right one. it was located on the right side behind the operators right shoulder. It looked like a double solenoid with 4 wires coming into a plug. Does that sound like the correct location. I checked both with an ohm meter and both read 8 ohms. Is that ok, I think that is acceptable. I also checked both sides of the plug to see if anything was shorted to ground or shorted together. I did not see anything like that. I also checked the fuses and all checked good in the fuse block.

I visually checked all of the other wires plugs to see if I saw any damage or wear from vibration. I saw none.

After putting everything back together, I climbed in the seat and turned on the key, after turning the key to start everthing went dark, I lost all power.

I have 12 volts at the back of the starter and the alternator and the solenoid for the glow plugs. My console no longer. lights up when I climb in the seat. Nothin happens when I turn on the key.

Any ideas where to start?
 

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What is the condition of the battery? Have you checked the voltage at rest and while trying to crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just checked it at rest. Was showing 12.2 last night when I walked away from the machine. The EMU showed 12.4 when it wouldn't crank. EMU showed 14.1 when it was last running.
I was wondering if I needed to get a new battery. When it cranked and ran, it seemed to be okay.

Will all power shutdown at a low voltage threshold?
 

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Will all power shutdown at a low voltage threshold?

It does on some equipment. With everything being electronic/digital nowadays, the control systems either work or they don't.

With 12.2v it sounds like you probably have one weak cell in your battery. You may still be able to jump start the machine off of another vehicle. If you can, then replacing the battery would be the next logical step.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put the jumper cables on it and attempted to start and got nothing. I then put a jumper on the solenoid of the starter to see if it would crank and only go a click. I then removed the starter and put jumper cables on it and jumpered the solenoid of the start to 12 volts. The solenoid worked but the starter would not spin. I am taking the starter in to be rebuilt today.

After I get the starter reinstalled, I will see if there are any other issues.

I have also learned the if the cab is not all of the way down then you have no power to the key switch.

Thanks for the help everyone, I will be back once I get eh starter re-installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the starter back from the re-builder and got it installed. Closed up the cab and no power to the EMU. Guess I will have to check through the Fuse, relays and see if there is power at the switch.
I put a jumper on the starter and touched the other end to ground, it now cranks with that method. Guessing I have a loose electrical connection somewhere. Noticed someone has put electrical grease on the fuses, so I wonder if there was a problem there previously.

I had this happen before when I started working on it and then power returned after I shut the cab down completely. I put anti-seize on the starter mounting bolts but I don't feel this would cause an electrical problem for power to the EMU and such. At the back of the starter to the ground of the starter I read 12.15 volts.

I have 12.15 volts off the battery and at the back of the starter. I will try to use it like it is until I get it started and replace the battery.

Anyone have any other ideas on what to look at?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After lots of rain and a busy weekend I finally got a chance to do some troubleshooting.

When I removed the starter I saw a wire that was snubbed off and I just figured it was an unused connection. Probing around I found it was going to the K1 relay. It was too short to reasonably reach the back of the starter solenoid. I spiced it with a jumper and connected it to the back of the starter solenoid. Closed things up and my son climbed in and reported that we had power. It started right up and everything was good. Drove it back over to the house and parked it under the shed.

Thanks for the help everyone. We are back in business.
 
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