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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

So I have used my new CTC loader for the second time. I must admit it’s tougher to mount compared to the 45 loader videos by Roy Rector etc

Anyways two issues.
1:
It never fully mounts equally to both sides of the mounting brackets. I’m told this is fine, it’s due to Deere and not CTC I’m that ‘each tractor is a little different’. I don’t know how normal this is but maybe people can chime in because I definitely don’t want one RAM working more than the other or the frame on the left taking more pain etc

2.
On removing a hydraulic coupler the other day, I noticed the male coupler where the nipple depresses had something what looks like a black rubber o-ring coming out of it. When it disconnected the loader after turning off and moving the hydraulic levers to remove back pressure I took off the couplers with no issues. Then I manually was pushing the loader with my hands and hydraulic fluid came jetting out for no reason...

Again is this any way normal or what’s wrong?
Rod at CTC says this must be an issue with my tractors hydraulic couplers, not his attachment. And maybe something wrong with my tractors quick hitch....?? He said he never saw the likes of a hydraulic coupler like this looking like this (see pics)

Any suggestions?

Also. I thought storing this on a concrete floor would make mounting easier but the mount just slides back and forth the concrete floor engraving it. It doesn’t seem happy to load on any surface whether it’s lawn, concrete or plywood...

Again the 45 loader had none of these issues.

Not complaining just looking for peoples experience and thoughts. I love the loader when it’s up and running
 

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As for the hydro the o ring shouldn't be there. Check the female end coupler.
 

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You have a bad male coupler, that's not CTC's, JD's, or whatever politician you want to name's fault, it just happens.

As far as the mounting issues, I can't help with that.
 

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I agree, bad coupler. I think there is a way to replace the o-ring but last time I bought one, they were not that expensive and saved me the hassle of trying to figure out how to get the o-ring in there.

As for the mount. You have to remind me as I don't recall what years changed things. Older machines like my X585 have a large square hole (about 3"x3") cut through the frame which was there for the 45 series FEL and is also used by CTC for that mount that is added to the tractor. On mine I just had to pass this mount through the frame, adjusting some cables and lines I am sure, and then one bolt is placed through the tractor frame and a tab on the loader mount. It was a long time ago but I might have had to drill that hole or it didn't like up quite right. I just seem to remember having to drill something. Anyhow this bolt is just there to take out any slop and to keep the mount from falling out.

At some point John Deere deleted this large 3" square hole. Probably around the time that the 45 Series FEL was also discontinued. Not sure on the date but maybe around 2009. It has been a while now but after doing this they also changed the frame design. I think CTC went back to the drawing board and now has a mount that is of similar design, it has just had the middle 18" or so cut out and it mounts to the frame with mounting tabs. I have never installed one of these so I can't speak to if the new version just bolts to the frame with 4 or so bolts on each side, and if so, does it use existing holes? If so, and depending on what JD's intent with these holes, I can see that they may not be perfect. I doubt CTC convinced JD to add holes to the frame for their FEL mount to be bolted to. JD would rather sell you a 1 Series. Maybe they are locating holes used in the manufacture process or maybe they are designed for some other accessory, or you had to drill them.

Ultimately, I don't know how much it really matters. I would think that the only time you may see more stresses because it isn't fully seated on one side would be with the front bolts/pins that secure the FEL to the front bumper area or whatever you want to call that front part of the tractor. There could be more stress on that pin when doing work such as driving into a pile of dirt or rocks. Mine sits even on both sides so when I drive into it, I am most likely pushing more on that mount that passes through the frame. When lifting it is more of an up/down pressure on those rear mounts.

As for the stand. If you are concerned about damage to cement and such, get a chunk of plywood and put it down on that. Something like a half a sheet of 1/2" would work well. I don't take mine off much but if I do, I am normally in one of my outbuildings. It will scratch the cement a bit but nothing that bothers me that much. No way I am taking it off in the new garage.
 

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I have the same issues with my CTC loader that I bought this year with my 2016 x738. I also had one of the male couplers pissing fluid from CTC. I have replaced all of mine with genuine JD male couplers. Never had a problem since. I think JD has better quality couplers.
I keep my loader on 2 moving carts from harbor freight. Then I can move the loader around into position easily. When trying to install the loader I have the bucket against the stud wall inside my shed. Then I drive the tractor forward.
 

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I have the same issues with my CTC loader that I bought this year with my 2016 x738. I also had one of the male couplers pissing fluid from CTC. I have replaced all of mine with genuine JD male couplers. Never had a problem since. I think JD has better quality couplers.
I keep my loader on 2 moving carts from harbor freight. Then I can move the loader around into position easily. When trying to install the loader I have the bucket against the stud wall inside my shed. Then I drive the tractor forward.
Yes, having something sturdy to push against, makes it easier to connect the FEL.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have the same issues with my CTC loader that I bought this year with my 2016 x738. I also had one of the male couplers pissing fluid from CTC. I have replaced all of mine with genuine JD male couplers. Never had a problem since. I think JD has better quality couplers.
I keep my loader on 2 moving carts from harbor freight. Then I can move the loader around into position easily. When trying to install the loader I have the bucket against the stud wall inside my shed. Then I drive the tractor forward.
Hey thanks for this, it’s reassuring to hear you’ve the same issues

Would you mind sending me a picture of how you store your CTC loader? I did buy furniture moving carts, but when this was on a pallet I had to remove it from the pallet to mount so I was hesitant about dismounting it again on a pallet or furniture dolly. But a photo would help.

Also, do you happen to know the part numbers for that order for the John Deere couplers?

Thanks
 

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Hey thanks for this, it’s reassuring to hear you’ve the same issues

Would you mind sending me a picture of how you store your CTC loader? I did buy furniture moving carts, but when this was on a pallet I had to remove it from the pallet to mount so I was hesitant about dismounting it again on a pallet or furniture dolly. But a photo would help.

Also, do you happen to know the part numbers for that order for the John Deere couplers?

Thanks
I can post a picture later today when I get home.

The part number is AM37983. I bought mine from a seller from eBay for $12.77 each. Free shipping. I also bought a spare coupler just in case. I don't like being broken down if it ever happens again. My JD snow blade came with these male couplers. Never had a problem after 3 winters.
 

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Loader Mount Issues
To have the rear mount on one side fully in the "pocket" of the bracket (for lack of a better description) and the other side not fully seated as you have shown in the photo would concern me as well. It looks like its out of position by perhaps an 1" or so?

Personally, I have trouble thinking that Deere has something that far out of square or parallel on the tractor frame as to result in the issue you are showing.

Does the position of the mount on the pin you have pictured change when the bucket is raised, loaded or the machine is in use?

How about when you are pushing the bucket against a fixed object or when installing the loader?

Is it ever fully forward in the mount you have pictured (on that side of the tractor)?

If you get a chance, would you take a few more photos of the mount area in question, showing it from underneath, how the mount attaches to the tractor, etc. that would be helpful.

Hydraulic Fittings / Couplers
As far as the hydraulic coupler goes, every now and then you find a defective one. That's a simple issue and not one to stress over. I do always keep spare male and female couplers (set) for just that reason. When one does leak or fail, its handy to be able to repair it right away and continue as it often seems like it fails right when you need it...............Once in awhile, its a simple issue such as a piece of dirt stuck in the valve which can be cleaned and removed. Usually, if the coupling is giving you trouble, its going to keep giving you trouble.

Also, when I remove a defective coupling, I throw it away so it doesn't end up back among the "good or new" parts......

Kenny, at Ken's Bolt on Hooks, has some really good PLUGS for the hydraulic couplings which actually stay on the fittings and keep them clean and free of dirt. Any dirt in the couplings is bound to cause trouble and keeping them well covered is the best way to prevent dirt from accumulating.

Click on the link above for the hydraulic couplings in the previous paragraph and about half way down the page, Ken has the Male and Female Protective Plugs and Caps. The 1/4" caps and plugs are $3 each and this is the size you need.

These actually fit inside the female couplings and snugly to the male fittings. When used correctly, they don't come off nor do they allow dirt inside the fitting. They come with a nice metal chain on them, but I usually remove the chain and just keep the plugs and covers in the tractor tool box when not in use so they are there when I need them. These are vastly superior to the covers John Deere uses.
 

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This is not the first complaint I have heard about warped CTC loaders. If the problem was with the tractor it would also effect the 45.
 

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Hey thanks for this, it’s reassuring to hear you’ve the same issues

Would you mind sending me a picture of how you store your CTC loader? I did buy furniture moving carts, but when this was on a pallet I had to remove it from the pallet to mount so I was hesitant about dismounting it again on a pallet or furniture dolly. But a photo would help.

Also, do you happen to know the part numbers for that order for the John Deere couplers?

Thanks
Here is the picture on how I store the loader. I just roll it out of the way by hand when done using.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is not the first complaint I have heard about warped CTC loaders. If the problem was with the tractor it would also effect the 45.
What is the option in this situation?
 

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That is what I did. My CTC loader was 1/4" narrow on where it mounts on the tractor frame. I didn't like ramming the tractor into the loader to get it mounted. So I bought a cheap bottle jack and used a board to widen the mounts on the loader by 1/4". The loader mount easier now since both sides line up better.
 

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This is not the first complaint I have heard about warped CTC loaders. If the problem was with the tractor it would also effect the 45.
I am not saying they are perfect but did they ever make a subframe for the 45 series FEL that fits a newer X Series after they stopped putting that large 3" or so square hole through the frame? I don't have this alignment issue and while one could say I got lucky with my CTC, I would argue that it uses a pass through subframe more like what the 45 Series had. I want to say that in the X758 application, it is two separate parts that bolt to the frame. Around the time they made this tractor frame design change was around the time that the 45 went away.

I have mentioned in other posts that I have tweaked things on my CTC. That required me to beef up some areas where I found it a little lacking.
 

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I am not saying they are perfect but did they ever make a subframe for the 45 series FEL that fits a newer X Series after they stopped putting that large 3" or so square hole through the frame? I don't have this alignment issue and while one could say I got lucky with my CTC, I would argue that it uses a pass through subframe more like what the 45 Series had. I want to say that in the X758 application, it is two separate parts that bolt to the frame. Around the time they made this tractor frame design change was around the time that the 45 went away.

I have mentioned in other posts that I have tweaked things on my CTC. That required me to beef up some areas where I found it a little lacking.
The frame changed because the loader was no longer offered, but CTC issues have been around since before the hole was removed and are not isolated to the x700 models. I’ve seen one for a 318 that was warped it wouldn’t mount at all.
 

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The frame changed because the loader was no longer offered, but CTC issues have been around since before the hole was removed and are not isolated to the x700 models. I’ve seen one for a 318 that was warped it wouldn’t mount at all.
OK, I guess I got lucky then. Mine fit fine until I bent it through use. I then pulled it back into being square and beefed it up. I haven't had any issues since doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey thanks for this, it’s reassuring to hear you’ve the same issues

Would you mind sending me a picture of how you store your CTC loader? I did buy furniture moving carts, but when this was on a pallet I had to remove it from the pallet to mount so I was hesitant about dismounting it again on a pallet or furniture dolly. But a photo would help.

Also, do you happen to know the part numbers for that order for the John Deere couplers?

Thanks
Here is the picture on how I store the loader. I just roll it out of the way by hand when done using.
How is this when you need to remount? Do you drive up to it with them on the dollies and line up with the rear mounts and then disconnect or what?

I’ve tried mounting it when the bucket and front mount is on anything raised like wood or a pallet and it’s a pain, sliding around etc etc
 

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How is this when you need to remount? Do you drive up to it with them on the dollies and line up with the rear mounts and then disconnect or what?

I’ve tried mounting it when the bucket and front mount is on anything raised like wood or a pallet and it’s a pain, sliding around etc etc
I don't do this with mine but I assume that as long as he had something hard to push against, like the back wall of a garage, it would allow you to hook it up. Being elevated shouldn't be an issue. This is because his dolly that supports the parking stand part appears to be narrower than the wheel base. So if you have enough ground clearance you would be able to pull in, align the hooks to the subframe pull in pushing against the rear wall of the garage or something hard. Then when you hook up the lines and run the hydraulics to lift the parking stand into position to be attached to the front of the tractor, it would just roll the dolly.

I think the problem partly with pallets is that the front wheels need to climb up on the pallet and that will make it hard to align things.

This is just a guess but I could see it working as long as the dollies are narrow enough to fit between the front wheels.
 

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How is this when you need to remount? Do you drive up to it with them on the dollies and line up with the rear mounts and then disconnect or what?

I’ve tried mounting it when the bucket and front mount is on anything raised like wood or a pallet and it’s a pain, sliding around etc etc
Yes, like I said before. I push the loader bucket against the shed stud wall while I'm mounting the loader. You need two separate Dolly's so you can use the hydraulics levers when mounting and unmounting the loader. Otherwise the loader will just move around on the Dolly's if you don't have anything to push against.
 
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