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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
You are correct, for what you are doing, (controlling a hydraulic cylinder) there is no reason to provide anything with a constant flow. Your valve setup will work fine. In your original post, you said a power beyond setup. When I hear that, to me a person requires a source of a constant flow to operate something such as a back hoe, or a log splitter. Something that has it's own control valves that simply need a source and return for fluid. This was not what you needed, you just needed a control valve (SCV) to operate the hydraulic cylinder-s on the implement that you are making.

Ultimately my confusion has been my lack of understanding of what you needed. So I apologize for that.

You should be all set once you make your connections and install the pipe plug down on the tractor end of things. :good2:
Understood. I used the term Power Beyond inappropriately here. Sorry for the confusion.

Yes, I have what I need for tapping into the tractor. When it happens I'll post pics. Stay tuned.
 

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Looking good Dave :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Today I succeeded in finishing the install by completing the plumbing down below. I choose to take a different approach from the others I've seen on GTT. I wanted to avoid buying new o-rings and getting hydraulic fluid all over. So I went in through the seat and selective control linkage. Took about 2 hours.

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Seat and SCV linkage removed

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Access to the port where one must insert plug to direct fluid to power beyond fittings

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Another view of the access port

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Power beyond fitting in place. Had to remove the forward/reverse dashpot to get the larger fitting to spin into place.

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Hoses in place

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Finished look

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Here's the final Bill of Material. Made some changes from the original.

Qty Item No Description
******************************************************************************************
Up Top
1 9-7862 2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21BB5C1 DA VALVE
1 9-6500-6-6 JIC 6M X JIC 6F SWIVEL 90 ELBOW
2 9-6801-6-8 JIC 6M x SAE 8M 90 ELBOW
4 9-6405-8-4 SAE 8M x 1/4 NPTF ADAPTER
4 9-5404-4-4 1/4 NPT HEX NIPPLE
(4 1/4" hydraulic quick connects)

Hoses
1 930-2230 3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4000 PSI HYD HOSE
1 930-2236 3/8" X 36" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4000 PSI HYD HOSE

Down below
1 9-6801-LL-6-6 JIC 6M x SAE 6M 90 ELBOW X-LONG
1 9-6801-6-6 JIC 6M x SAE 6M SWIVEL 90 ELBOW
(and Deere power beyond plug)

__________________________________________________________________________________________


Dave
 

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Thank you for the parts list, I am getting my 2032 next week and this is one of my first projects to add to it. I wonder if your bracket will fit it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thank you for the parts list, I am getting my 2032 next week and this is one of my first projects to add to it. I wonder if your bracket will fit it?
Hookoil, I haven't looked at the 2032. There are two main factors at play. First is the mounting bolt pattern and bolt size. Second is surrounding structures (interference with the bracket and valve) - from what I see on the John Deere parts diagrams there's a good change things are similar/identical.

If you can give me accurate dimensions for the bolt pattern, I can verify this. Regarding potential interferences, perhaps you can take pictures and we'd have an educated guess.

Dave
 

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Thank you for the parts list, I am getting my 2032 next week and this is one of my first projects to add to it. I wonder if your bracket will fit it?
Hookoil, I haven't looked at the 2032. There are two main factors at play. First is the mounting bolt pattern and bolt size. Second is surrounding structures (interference with the bracket and valve) - from what I see on the John Deere parts diagrams there's a good change things are similar/identical.

If you can give me accurate dimensions for the bolt pattern, I can verify this. Regarding potential interferences, perhaps you can take pictures and we'd have an educated guess.

Dave
I should be getting my machine Monday or Tuesday so some point next week I will get the info on it TY
 
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I was able to get my machine home early:yahoo: these are the pics of my ROPS, it looks the same as yours including the part number. It looks like they use the same drops 2305,2320,2520,2720,2025r,2027r &2032r. So I think your bracket and parts lists will work for my setup :good2: How much is a bracket? and what kind of time frame not that I am in a huge rush but just wondering?
 
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Thinking about doing this so I can add a top and tilt to my 2025r , did u have to remove the valve body from the tractor to get the plug installed as well as the in and out hydro lines ? If so does fluid go all over ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Thinking about doing this so I can add a top and tilt to my 2025r , did u have to remove the valve body from the tractor to get the plug installed as well as the in and out hydro lines ? If so does fluid go all over ?
No and No. I used the technique shown in the pictures to avoid removing the valve body. To me, I'd rather spend the extra time rather than disturb the seals and get oil all over the place.

As you can see in the pictures I removed the seat, and the SCV linkage/lever to get front access to the port where the plug goes. It's a little tedious but worth it to me. You can see from other posts (on this forum) how to install the plug.

Regarding the in/out fittings, I only had an issue with the XLong fitting. It wouldn't rotate all the way around due to the forward/reverse dashpot (called Torsional Damper in parts catalog). It was easy to move out of the way to get the fitting in. You can see in picture IMG_6140.jpg (in the prior post) the dashpot is removed (missing).

Hope this helps,

JDDave




Here's the port access to where the plug goes:
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Note the clearance around the in/out fittings in the picture.
 
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