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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone. Ok so having an issue with our secondary transmission pulley system on D105 John Deere. We can't seem to get the screw and the washer to stay secure to the spring, which then connects with pulley and drive belt. We've tried adding a lock nut washer, and put blue locktite on the screw. I can mow for about 10min. then the screw pops out again. We've been lucky enough to find everything when it pops off, as there is crazy pressure behind the spring. We've managed with my husband and I to re-seure without taking the mower apart, but are we missing something? Would the screw be stripped? Something with the pulley? Why would it only stay secure for a few minutes, then when it pops, mower won't move again. Very frustrated. If someone could help us, that would be great. We've looked for videos with no luck. It's always the washer that is the issue or the tire key. We don't feel either of these are the issue. Thanks
 

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Jen, That's a strange one indeed! I've never worked on a D105 but here's my thoughts!

That should be a standard variator pulley and the upper & lower flanges/pulley halves should rotate with the shaft, most likely held/driven with a key. Their only movement should be up & down, with no rotational movement against the spring & flat washer assembly. I'm thinking possibly the key is sheared or flew out at one point in time. I'd remove the pulley assembly and at least attempt to take it apart and see how it works. If you see a keyslot in the shaft and in the pulley and don't find a key, that's your issue.

My other thought is I'm completely incorrect! Take it apart, Bob
 

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Jenn, I found a little more info! Looking at Tractor Data.co, it states the D105 has a "General Transmission RT400 " transmission. Do a search for that and you'll come to the General Transmission web site. I found a trouble shooting pdf in the re with a parts breakdown. It appears the top flange is driven by a hex shaft that is one piece with the bottom pulley. I can't believe that hex shaft has worn round! That would be the only reason for any rotation force on the top pulley though.

Reading through the assembly instructions, it states to torque the bolt on the variator pulley to 19.5 +/-1 lb-in and "General Transmission recommends using Loctite 454 when assembling the screws."

SOO! You may be correct on one of your statements that the screw (or shaft) may be stripped. 19.5 lb-in is NOT much force and the screw or shaft may be stripped. Another possibility is your "winding" the spring when you tighten the screw. Try holding the washer/cap on top of the spring with a pipe wrench to prevent it from turning.

Keep us posted! Bob
 

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Jennifer, regardless of how this turns out, you deserve credit for accurately describing the problem you are dealing with and outlining the steps you have taken to attempt to resolve the issue. It's refreshing to see a description which provides those on the forum with the information to best reply with helpful suggestions. Great Job!

Too often the thread starts with "Urgently need help with that thingy on the mower that doesn't work and how do we fix it?

Regarding your actual transmission issue, I would take the screw which is holding the washer / cap on the secondary pulley to a hardware store and compare it with a new stainless screw. I don't see the screw size listed on the parts page for General Transmission, but I wouldn't be surprised if the screw's threads were either worn down or the hole into which it screws is partially stripped out, or at a minimum, a combination of both issues.

Most hardware stores have a decent inventory of stainless steel fasteners because they are ideal for using in the weather and they are much tougher than most soft metal hardware.

If you match up a new screw to the current one, you will likely see the extent the threads are worn on the current screw. Also, make sure to get the same thread count. You can make sure the new and old machine screws have the same thread count by threading the right size nut onto the machine screw.

When you insert the screw to tighten it, does the screw fit tightly or does it wobble from side to side as being tightened? It should be a snug fit or its going to keep backing itself out with the spring tension on it.

A new screw, with the use of the thread lock should resolve the issue. Also, make sure the spring is properly seated on the shaft when you are tighening the screw, because as Rmeyer mentioned, 19.5 +/-1 lb-in of torque isn't very much force.

If it turns out the female threads are stripped out of the shaft, you could try to
  1. Run a new screw in the hole which is the next size larger, hoping the new screw threads grab enough material to tighten properly or
  2. Using a maleable repair material like JB Weld, on the threads on the existing screw, which will harden in the female threads once cured.
One suggestion when looking for a replacement screw which is just a little bit larger in thread size, check both metric and SAE sized hardware as there are some slight differences in sizes and going from on standard to the other might just be enough of a size difference to tighten the new screw back where it should be. I see you are in Canada, so I would imagine the primary hardware sold is Metric sizes with the SAE sizes being the alternate.

Note, These are often one shot attempts to repair it and they are sort of a "Hail Mary". If it works, great the problem is solved. If it doesn't work, you will likely be replacing the secondary drive pulley assembly, or the the entire transmission (or worst case, the mower itself)........

Good luck and hoping to hear one of the suggestions helps solve the problem. Please let us know what you try and what works and doesn't, so this thread is helpful to others who might encounter the same issue with their D105.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jennifer, regardless of how this turns out, you deserve credit for accurately describing the problem you are dealing with and outlining the steps you have taken to attempt to resolve the issue. It's refreshing to see a description which provides those on the forum with the information to best reply with helpful suggestions. Great Job!

Too often the thread starts with "Urgently need help with that thingy on the mower that doesn't work and how do we fix it?

Regarding your actual transmission issue, I would take the screw which is holding the washer / cap on the secondary pulley to a hardware store and compare it with a new stainless screw. I don't see the screw size listed on the parts page for General Transmission, but I wouldn't be surprised if the screw's threads were either worn down or the hole into which it screws is partially stripped out, or at a minimum, a combination of both issues.

Most hardware stores have a decent inventory of stainless steel fasteners because they are ideal for using in the weather and they are much tougher than most soft metal hardware.

If you match up a new screw to the current one, you will likely see the extent the threads are worn on the current screw. Also, make sure to get the same thread count. You can make sure the new and old machine screws have the same thread count by threading the right size nut onto the machine screw.

When you insert the screw to tighten it, does the screw fit tightly or does it wobble from side to side as being tightened? It should be a snug fit or its going to keep backing itself out with the spring tension on it.

A new screw, with the use of the thread lock should resolve the issue. Also, make sure the spring is properly seated on the shaft when you are tighening the screw, because as Rmeyer mentioned, 19.5 +/-1 lb-in of torque isn't very much force.

If it turns out the female threads are stripped out of the shaft, you could try to
  1. Run a new screw in the hole which is the next size larger, hoping the new screw threads grab enough material to tighten properly or
  2. Using a maleable repair material like JB Weld, on the threads on the existing screw, which will harden in the female threads once cured.
One suggestion when looking for a replacement screw which is just a little bit larger in thread size, check both metric and SAE sized hardware as there are some slight differences in sizes and going from on standard to the other might just be enough of a size difference to tighten the new screw back where it should be. I see you are in Canada, so I would imagine the primary hardware sold is Metric sizes with the SAE sizes being the alternate.

Note, These are often one shot attempts to repair it and they are sort of a "Hail Mary". If it works, great the problem is solved. If it doesn't work, you will likely be replacing the secondary drive pulley assembly, or the the entire transmission (or worst case, the mower itself)........

Good luck and hoping to hear one of the suggestions helps solve the problem. Please let us know what you try and what works and doesn't, so this thread is helpful to others who might encounter the same issue with their D105.



Hi Sulleybear, thank you so much for your positive feedback, and all the great information. Both you and Bob have made great suggestions! We for sure we will post our attempts to fix it, and hopefully resolve the issue. As you mentioned, if we could help anyone out with this issue, would be great.
We will try a new comparable screw first in hopes that the screw is just mildly stripped, which may explain our problem. Like I mentioned, it's frustrating, as we can get the mower moving for about 10min, then the screw and cap blow off. We do feel like the washer cap, screw and spring connect with the pulley once tight. The screw feels like it's going in straight and feels like it gets fully seated. I don't feel like the spring is turning as we tighten. My husband uses all his force to push down on the spring and washer cap, and then I tighten the screw.
One other thing I did notice as once we do get everything tightened, and I get moving, the foot pedal seems very tight, and seems to only want to go a very slow speed, not like the variable speed it should. I didn't want to force the pedal, so I just put very light pressure on the forward motion. Would anyone have any insight as to why that might occur? I'm thinking this may also be helpful in diagnosing our problem.
Thanks again for all the help, it is greatly appreciated.
 

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Jennifer, I have a D110 that I just took my deck off so I can test fit a snowblower on to (yea.....don't ask) LOL . I will admit, I cant seem to grasp the actual screw/pulley setup you are describing.
And while the D105 and the D110 may not even be the same underneath, I am more than willing to climb under mine in the morning to see what you may or may not be missing....if thats any help to you.
 

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Hi Everyone. Ok so having an issue with our secondary transmission pulley system on D105 John Deere. We can't seem to get the screw and the washer to stay secure to the spring, which then connects with pulley and drive belt. We've tried adding a lock nut washer, and put blue locktite on the screw. I can mow for about 10min. then the screw pops out again. We've been lucky enough to find everything when it pops off, as there is crazy pressure behind the spring. We've managed with my husband and I to re-seure without taking the mower apart, but are we missing something? Would the screw be stripped? Something with the pulley? Why would it only stay secure for a few minutes, then when it pops, mower won't move again. Very frustrated. If someone could help us, that would be great. We've looked for videos with no luck. It's always the washer that is the issue or the tire key. We don't feel either of these are the issue. Thanks
Are you using the original spring and cap or a new one? The spring broke on mine and the research I’ve done (as well as my own cap) shows that the cap is prone to premature wear around the screw head which makes the cap pop off.
I’m trying to find out if I can buy the spring and cap only and then get a screw with a larger head to hold it on.
Sounds like this may be what is happening to you if you are using the original parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you using the original spring and cap or a new one? The spring broke on mine and the research I’ve done (as well as my own cap) shows that the cap is prone to premature wear around the screw head which makes the cap pop off.
I’m trying to find out if I can buy the spring and cap only and then get a screw with a larger head to hold it on.
Sounds like this may be what is happening to you if you are using the original parts.

Hi Caretaker, for us, we don't actually think it's washer cap /screw or a spring issue. I have seen others with the cap issue like yourself. I'm in Canada, and yes they do sell the hardware separately, which I think includes the spring, washer cap, screw and bolts, but they did not have in stock in my city. Runs about $50 CAD. There are a few great videos on youtube helping with your washer cap /screw issue.
We've just found a new screw and some JD Weld glue to hopefully keep the screw from dislodging. We think we may have a stripped screw. Hoping to update this topic very soon, as we honestly are not 100% sure on the issue yet. I wish you the best on finding the parts, and fixing your mower. Finding parts I think it will just depend where you are located. Have you tried Ebay or Amazon?
Best of luck
 

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Jenn, I'm not fond of using JB weld to hold the screw in! JB is a top shelf epoxy and you nay NEVER get that screw out again ! Can you or Hubby identify the screw? Then, get a piece of threaded rod (maybe Princess Auto) and JB that in, cut to length needed, and add a nut. Another option is to use a heli-coil or another type of thread insert and use new screw. Just my thoughts! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jenn, I'm not fond of using JB weld to hold the screw in! JB is a top shelf epoxy and you nay NEVER get that screw out again ! Can you or Hubby identify the screw? Then, get a piece of threaded rod (maybe Princess Auto) and JB that in, cut to length needed, and add a nut. Another option is to use a heli-coil or another type of thread insert and use new screw. Just my thoughts! Bob

Hi Bob, thanks for the heads up on the JB Weld. It was actually suggested by a member in this topic thread. We havn't used yet. Bought a few different kinds. Was going to research. Any experience with the JB Weld SteelStik? We've tried Blue Loctite, I believe #242, seems to be the only one I can find in the store (Havn't tried Princess Auto though) Screw did not hold. Mowed for 10min, the screw, washer cap blew off. When we put the Loctite on, even left the mower a day before trying.
I found a package of SS 8-32 machine screws, fine thread at the hardware store. Looks like might work.
I've been busy fixing our push mower as the drive belt needed replacing. 2 mowers down, with 1.5 acres of grass, not a fun situation. Push mower is fixed. Will update soon.
 

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Hmm, I would have thought that would be a metric screw...8-32 is very close to an M4x0.7...only a few thousandths difference in OD & pitch. Try contacting General Transmission and see if they'll give you screw specs or sell you a new screw!

Here's another thought for ya! IF the original screw you tried to Locktite in was also SS, that's why the 242 didn't hold! The 242 is an anaerobic adhesive which means it needs the lack of air and free ferric ions to cure...SS does not contain enough ferric ions to setup and a special primer needs to be applied. I've never used any JB Weld compounds, so can't comment. But to me, "Weld" means permanent!

And now for Plan "B" ! Drill and tap pulley shaft for 10-32 and install a 10-32 screw.
 
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Hmm, I would have thought that would be a metric screw...8-32 is very close to an M4x0.7...only a few thousandths difference in OD & pitch. Try contacting General Transmission and see if they'll give you screw specs or sell you a new screw!

Here's another thought for ya! IF the original screw you tried to Locktite in was also SS, that's why the 242 didn't hold! The 242 is an anaerobic adhesive which means it needs the lack of air and free ferric ions to cure...SS does not contain enough ferric ions to setup and a special primer needs to be applied. I've never used any JB Weld compounds, so can't comment. But to me, "Weld" means permanent!

And now for Plan "B" ! Drill and tap pulley shaft for 10-32 and install a 10-32 screw.
Hi Bob,
Package on Loctite did mention that a primer might need to be applied to some surfaces, before using #242, but havn't had luck finding the primer. That is what my husbands first thought was when the screw didn't hold, which is why we thought we'd try maybe a JB Weld product, but yes, we don't want permanent. There are quite a few different JB weld products. More investigating is needed. I'm afraid I'm getting a bit out of my element here. 8 yrs with this tractor, have done well so far in fixing any problems that come our way, but this is the biggest obstacle yet. I'm hoping we can fix this. Thanks again for all your help. Greatly appreciated. Thinking I might try Princess Auto. Update to follow.
 

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My knowledge of Loctite products goes back many years, like 40, but many of their products have changed "names". After a little research, I believe what I used to call "Primer N" is now called Loctite 7649. From their website:

LOCTITE® SF 7649 is designed to promote the curing speed of LOCTITE anaerobic adhesives and sealants without any significant loss of joint strength. It is especially recommended for applications with passive metals or inert surfaces and with large bond gaps. LOCTITE SF 7649 offers good performance at low cure temperatures, and is recommended when the application temperature is below 15°C.

SS would be considered as an "inert surface". The problem is I don't believe you'll find this on the shelf anywhere and will probably have to order through an industrial supply house. I'd go with a stud/threaded rod or retap to larger size. Run it by Hubby for his thoughts! Bob
 
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Jenn, Just a quick comment on my last post, Run it by Hubby for his thoughts! This in NO WAY is saying that you are not intelligent/competent enough to comprehend what I've posted! I'm thinking the repair is a joint effort and should be a joint decision as to what/how the repair is to be done. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Jenn, Just a quick comment on my last post, Run it by Hubby for his thoughts! This in NO WAY is saying that you are not intelligent/competent enough to comprehend what I've posted! I'm thinking the repair is a joint effort and should be a joint decision as to what/how the repair is to be done. Bob
No problem Bob, I didn't take your comment negatively one bit, but thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, so just wanted to update my post. It's been very rainy here, and have not been able to mow. Hoping tomorrow. On a side note though, we did manage to get the new 8-32 screw into the pulley system last weekend. I did mow for about 10-15 min. without issue. Hope cutting goes well tomorrow. I did find using the new screw, my foot go pedal was much easier to vary speeds with, like it normally used to do, compared to using the old screw. I found the pedal very stiff, and only seemed to go one speed. I'm hoping this is a good sign. We also used a larger washer, and a lock washer between the new screw and the original washer cap.
 

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No clue as to why the original bolt kept coming loose, but bottom line is you're up & running! Good job, Bob
 
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