[Dbenko13]

Please help...a novice and out of ideas. My D110 riding mower has power, but won’t start. Both left and right side ‘SERVICE’ alarms are displayed. I have seen on Internet that one is for mower deck and one is for motor. Everything I have read is to service one or the other, but all info has the mower still able to start.
I don't know much about motors nor electrical issues, so please provide some guidance, but please be gentle!
Thank you.

 

[jgayman]

According to the Operator's Manual the two service alarms are for general lubrication and one for the mower/engine. They are purely informational and will not prevent the tractor from starting.

When you say "it has power" what do you mean?

Does the engine turn over with the start and simply not start or do you get no starter activity?

 

[Dbenko13]

Thank you for the reply. I mean it has power as evidenced by the odometer’s displaying, no motor turn-over nor do I hear any ‘clicking’ noises, such as a switch’s opening/closing.

 

[jgayman]

Do you have a multi-meter that you can use to check the battery? You need to check the voltage across the terminals at rest and when you are trying to crank it.

Also, check all your interlocks. Make sure mower is disengaged and lock the parking brake.

 

[Dbenko13]

As I said, I’m a ‘mower moron’. I’ll check the voltage, but I’m oblivious to what ‘interlocks’ are.

 

[Dbenko13]

When key its turned to the ‘engage’ position, I’m getting 12.66 volts without my sitting in the sest.

 

[jgayman]

That sure sounds like a good battery voltage for at rest. You say you hear no clicking at all. There is a fuel shutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor that should make a faint click as soon as you turn the key. You can usually hear it if you are in a quiet spot and if you turn the key back and forth. That at least tells you there is power to the engine.

The next step is energizing the starter solenoid which happens when you turn the key all the way to the start position. If any of the interlocks are open it will not send power to the solenoid.

The manual has a troubleshooting chart for if the engine will not crank.

The fuse they are referring to is shown below.

 

[Dbenko13]

I thank you for all the info. I’ll have to work on this tomorrow.
By the way, I just noticed you wanted voltage while the mower is at rest. This doesn’t seem like a good number, but voltage when the key is out of the mower is only 0.05 volts.

 

[jgayman]

I thank you for all the info. I’ll have to work on this tomorrow.
By the way, I just noticed you wanted voltage while the mower is at rest. This doesn’t seem like a good number, but voltage when the key is out of the mower is only 0.05 volts.

I was trying to describe measuring the battery voltage while cranking vs. just sitting there idle. Many times a battery will test okay just sitting there but when you try to engage the starter it will drop to 7-8 volts.

 

[SulleyBear]

How long have you had the mower?

Have you had the mower since it was new?

Have you ever replaced the battery?

How long since you last used the mower?

Always start with the basics and if this is the first time this year for you to use the mower, its very possible the battery is too low on voltage to engage the starter, especially if the mower has been sitting unused for some time.

 

[Dbenko13]

I really appreciate your help, jgayman.
Not at home now, but I bought the mower new, battery was replaced last year. It actually started this issue the end of last season. Battery always tested well. Like I said, all posts I’ve seen said the ‘service’ warming is just a reminder to do maintenance, but all posts have just one ‘service’ warning (mine has two) and all posts have the mower working with the alarms simply displaying ( mine is keeping the mower from starting and/or turning over).

 

[jgayman]

I really appreciate your help, jgayman.
Not at home now, but I bought the mower new, battery was replaced last year. It actually started this issue the end of last season. Battery always tested well. Like I said, all posts I’ve seen said the ‘service’ warming is just a reminder to do maintenance, but all posts have just one ‘service’ warning (mine has two) and all posts have the mower working with the alarms simply displaying ( mine is keeping the mower from starting and/or turning over).

I really don't think your maintenance reminder lights are preventing the tractor from starting. The manual says they are simply reminders and seems to indicate they will stop flashing on their own after two hours (which makes sense since there is no way to reset the reminder after servicing the machine).

 

[Dbenko13]

Okay, I am charging the battery now. Now when key is turned I do hear the ‘click’, but motor doesn’t turn over. I have bypassed the seat safety switch just to rule out that. ‘Reverse rod’ on back of mower is all the way in. Are there any other safety switches I should check?

 

[jgayman]

Okay, I am charging the battery now. Now when key is turned I do hear the ‘click’, but motor doesn’t turn over. I have bypassed the seat safety switch just to rule out that. ‘Reverse rod’ on back of mower is all the way in. Are there any other safety switches I should check?

So was the battery dead? I thought you had already checked the voltage was 12.66 volts? If you want to verify that it is an interlock preventing from starting, locate the starter solenoid and short across the two LARGE terminals with a screwdriver or something. If the starter engages and turns over you have either an interlock problem or a bad solenoid.

To further test if it is the solenoid, look at the two small terminals. One of these goes to ground and the other has 12V applied to energize the solenoid. If you turn the key to start and there is not 12V on the coil wire then you still have an interlock problem. If there is 12V on the small terminal when you turn the key and the starter doesn't turn then it could be a bad solenoid.

 

[Dbenko13]

Thank you, jgayman, just hooked up charger to make sure cranking amps were sufficient. I can engage the starter solenoid without the key’s being in the ignition, correct?

 

[Dbenko13]

Shorted solenoid as instructed. Sparks at both contacts, what sounded like a ‘thump’ or ‘click’, but did not turn over.

 

[jgayman]

Shorted solenoid as instructed. Sparks at both contacts, what sounded like a ‘thump’ or ‘click’, but did not turn over.

Sounds like the battery is weak. If you can, measure the battery voltage while shorting across the solenoid terminals.

 

[Dbenko13]

Unable to do so, I’m the only soldier fighting this battle, the mower was purchased new in 2010 (200.4 hrs of service). I went ahead and ordered a new solenoid. I figured even if that isn’t the issue it would not be wasted effort.
Question, if the ignition coil is bad would it still allow the motor to turn over and just not allow the motor to run? I’m thinking maybe that might not be ‘a bad chess piece to move’.

 

[jgayman]

Unable to do so, I’m the only soldier fighting this battle, the mower was purchased new in 2010 (200.4 hrs of service). I went ahead and ordered a new solenoid. I figured even if that isn’t the issue it would not be wasted effort.
Question, if the ignition coil is bad would it still allow the motor to turn over and just not allow the motor to run? I’m thinking maybe that might not be ‘a bad chess piece to move’.

I understand. I'm usually a one-man show myself. Sometimes I can use alligator clips to clamp onto the battery so I can see the multimeter while I'm in the tractor seat or elsewhere.

Yes, if the ignition coil was bad the engine would simply crank (turn over) but wouldn't fire up.

The fact that if you short the solenoid the starter just gives a "clunk" sounds like either the battery voltage is too low to run the starter or the starter is jammed on the flywheel. You could try turning the engine over by hand to ensure it turns freely. If you remove the spark plug the engine should turn over quite easily by hand.

 

[Dbenko13]

That was very good advice. I removed the wire from the spark plug and the flywheel won’t budge. I did change the starter. I aligned the gear on the starter with the large gear on the flywheel. Could it be something just isn’t aligning? Should I remove the starter and reinstall?