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I have a 3+ year old (60 hours) D170 that has what I am sure is a transmission leak. The right axle is clean vs the left as shown. Started with the black staining but now I have a pretty good sized transmission fluid (looks like vegetable oil) stain on my garage floor.

Won't get to call the dealer until Monday but just looking to get a heads up what I am up against here on this or if perhaps this is a DYI fix.

Any tips / suggestions would help.

Thanks,

Dan
 

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I have a 3+ year old (60 hours) D170 that has what I am sure is a transmission leak. The right axle is clean vs the left as shown. Started with the black staining but now I have a pretty good sized transmission fluid (looks like vegetable oil) stain on my garage floor.

Won't get to call the dealer until Monday but just looking to get a heads up what I am up against here on this or if perhaps this is a DYI fix.

Any tips / suggestions would help.

Thanks,

Dan
Definitely looks like you have a leak from that axle seal. I believe that your tractor has the K46 transmission. From what I understand the dealer will only replace the whole assembly for any kind of problem. Saying that the unit is non serviceable. However Tuff Torque the manufacturer will sell service parts separately.

Apparently you can't check the fluid level or change the fluid without removing the transmission. Seeing that you have a leak the level is going to be low. You definitely want to stop using it until the leak is fixed. Eventually the level will get low enough that the transmission will start slipping. Then stop moving all together. Running it without enough fluid will burn up the hydraulic pump inside.

As long as the axle and bearing are okay you should only be looking at replacing the seal. Then I would change the fluid and fill it too the proper level. Might as well put on a new drive belt while you have it apart.
 

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So easy that a child could do it. lol

Makes me wonder why at least some dealers don't work on them? (Maybe some do?) I would not want to hear that I needed a new transmission because of a seal leak. Now if I totally burned my unit up for some reason it would be a different story.

They did forget to mention cleaning the case after removal and before opening it up. You definitely don't want any kind of junk getting inside while you work on it.

Another tip is be super careful with removing the old seal. Any scratches on the axle or inside of aluminum case and you will never get it to seal. This is in the area where the seal sits/rides.
 

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So easy that a child could do it. lol

Makes me wonder why at least some dealers don't work on them? (Maybe some do?) I would not want to hear that I needed a new transmission because of a seal leak. Now if I totally burned my unit up for some reason it would be a different story.

They did forget to mention cleaning the case after removal and before opening it up. You definitely don't want any kind of junk getting inside while you work on it.

Another tip is be super careful with removing the old seal. Any scratches on the axle or inside of aluminum case and you will never get it to seal. This is in the area where the seal sits/rides.
If you use a flat head screwdriver as in the pdf instructions, I would make sure there were no sharp edges on it. I would probably smooth it with emery cloth first. Better yet I would use a pin punch instead. If you do happen to scratch the housing, you can always put a small amount of gasket sealer on the OD of the seal before installing. As dealer dude said, scratching the axle is much harder to recover from.
 

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If you use a flat head screwdriver as in the pdf instructions, I would make sure there were no sharp edges on it. I would probably smooth it with emery cloth first. Better yet I would use a pin punch instead. If you do happen to scratch the housing, you can always put a small amount of gasket sealer on the OD of the seal before installing. As dealer dude said, scratching the axle is much harder to recover from.
I also have a small slide hammer with a screw on the end. Just for removing seals. You drill 2 or 3 small holes in the front face of the seal. Then screw it in to walk the seal out. Doesn't work on all seals but has worked like a charm plenty of times.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Should have read this first ;)

So I replaced the seals. As you mentioned that screwdriver trick is not a good idea. I know for sure I scratched the one side (not the shaft). The seals are in and do not seem to be leaking so my fingers are crossed.

I neglected to drain it first assuming that it was bled dry from the leak. I got one quart in then perhaps a 1/4 of the second bottle before I over filled it. I was first thinking I need to bleed air out etc. but now I am guessing that it's just the fact I didn't pre-drain it.

Now my next issue - I rotate the pully shaft and the drive shafts don't spin (I assumed they would when I topped it off).

This is the part that scares me. Before I started to remove the transmission I wanted to move the tractor. I fired it up and it wouldn't move - now I realize because it lost most of the fluid vs when I first noticed the leak when it was mostly full and still ran fine.

Before I drain some fluid back out to the proper level and put it back together I want to ensure it works. If I need to open it up to check that's not chewed up in side I will but I would rather not for obvious reasons.

Any ideas here brefore I touch this again?

Dan

So easy that a child could do it. lol

Makes me wonder why at least some dealers don't work on them? (Maybe some do?) I would not want to hear that I needed a new transmission because of a seal leak. Now if I totally burned my unit up for some reason it would be a different story.

They did forget to mention cleaning the case after removal and before opening it up. You definitely don't want any kind of junk getting inside while you work on it.

Another tip is be super careful with removing the old seal. Any scratches on the axle or inside of aluminum case and you will never get it to seal. This is in the area where the seal sits/rides.
 

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So I replaced the seals. As you mentioned that screwdriver trick is not a good idea. I know for sure I scratched the one side (not the shaft). The seals are in and do not seem to be leaking so my fingers are crossed.

I neglected to drain it first assuming that it was bled dry from the leak. I got one quart in then perhaps a 1/4 of the second bottle before I over filled it. I was first thinking I need to bleed air out etc. but now I am guessing that it's just the fact I didn't pre-drain it.

Now my next issue - I rotate the pully shaft and the drive shafts don't spin (I assumed they would when I topped it off).

This is the part that scares me. Before I started to remove the transmission I wanted to move the tractor. I fired it up and it wouldn't move - now I realize because it lost most of the fluid vs when I first noticed the leak when it was mostly full and still ran fine.

Before I drain some fluid back out to the proper level and put it back together I want to ensure it works. If I need to open it up to check that's not chewed up in side I will but I would rather not for obvious reasons.

Any ideas here brefore I touch this again?

Dan
Did you have the freewheeling lever out when you tried to move the tractor? This will keep it from moving.

I'd start over. Drain all the fluid out. Believe me that you want to get all the old fluid out that you can. Especially since you have it apart. Then fill it up to the correct level.

You will not be able to turn the drive pulley fast enough by hand to bench test it. Maybe if you can attach a drill to the input shaft. Also be sure that the freewheeling lever is in the correct position. You would also need to move the forward/reverse lever while spinning the input shaft. Otherwise the axles still won't move.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Back in business!

Was going to short cut and not re-drain it. I drained out the top of the case back into the first empty bottle. It came out pretty clean. Then I drained it 100% which was a good idea as the second half that drained was nasty. Re-filled with the rest of the new and a small bit of the recovered, put it back together and re-installed.

The new seals seem to be holding despite marring up the inside of the seal inset. Ran it for over an hour today and ran great - same power as before on hills etc. Should have put a bigger pully on it to gain a bit of speed :)

Thanks for everyones comments etc.

Did you have the freewheeling lever out when you tried to move the tractor? This will keep it from moving.

I'd start over. Drain all the fluid out. Believe me that you want to get all the old fluid out that you can. Especially since you have it apart. Then fill it up to the correct level.

You will not be able to turn the drive pulley fast enough by hand to bench test it. Maybe if you can attach a drill to the input shaft. Also be sure that the freewheeling lever is in the correct position. You would also need to move the forward/reverse lever while spinning the input shaft. Otherwise the axles still won't move.
 

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Back in business!

Was going to short cut and not re-drain it. I drained out the top of the case back into the first empty bottle. It came out pretty clean. Then I drained it 100% which was a good idea as the second half that drained was nasty. Re-filled with the rest of the new and a small bit of the recovered, put it back together and re-installed.

The new seals seem to be holding despite marring up the inside of the seal inset. Ran it for over an hour today and ran great - same power as before on hills etc. Should have put a bigger pully on it to gain a bit of speed :)

Thanks for everyones comments etc.
Good to hear that you got it going again. It's always worth while getting as much old fluid out that you can. Using it until the transmission ran dry would have surely been the end of it.
 
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