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Discussion Starter #1
Had a weird experience recently. In the first two years of having my x758 I used a Battery Tender Jr. battery tender to keep the battery healthy during the winter when it doesn't get a lot of use. Since I needed a new battery tender recently for another vehicle I decided to buy the Noco battery tender with dash-mounted plug like another member posted in this forum recently. Got it all installed and hooked it up. Pushed the button on the Noco to switch it from standby to 12V charge/maintenance mode.

The next day I went to use the x758 and here's what happened: Turned key on, dash displayed normal start-up check and I waited for the glow plug light to go out. When it did I turned the key to crank it and it barely turned over and then everything went out. Dash was black. No starter action. Turned key off and on a couple times and nothing. It was like the battery was almost dead and when I cranked it I used the last juice. Turned off again and left it for a minute, then re-tried. That time the dash came back on and it started normally.

Used the tractor for 15 min, parked it again and plugged the Noco back into the dash plug. Came back next day to move it again and this time it did something similar but wouldn't even crank at all. As soon as I turned key to 'start' everything went dead. Put a battery charger on but noticed that it wasn't taking much change, like a full battery. I checked voltage (with charger removed) and battery was at 13.4V, so looking fully charged. Went back to try starting it again and dash lit up and it popped off just fine.

What the heck is going on here? I know the Noco charger is hooked up correctly. Not that hard to get red side to (+) and black terminal to (-).

I was going to contact Noco but I see they really only have a mail-in form. They say they have chat and call-back but neither is 'active' today (mid day on Monday during business hours). At this point I am about ready to pull everything out and return it to Amazon unless someone here has info on what is going on or what I may be doing wrong.

Rob
 

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Here are a few possibilities in somewhat of a likelihood order.

1. Poor battery connections - try cleaning the terminals and cable ends and ensure all connections are tight. Double check everything that was touched during the Noco connector install.
2. The battery is failing - admittedly it would be a big coincidence but it needs to be ruled out. Can you have the battery load tested? Also, try to measure the battery voltage while it is cranking next time it acts flaky. Batteries can be intermittent.
3. The Noco charger is faulty - if #1 and #2 are okay, can you go back to trying your old Battery Tender Jr. for a while?
4. Something else. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here are a few possibilities in somewhat of a likelihood order.

1. Poor battery connections - try cleaning the terminals and cable ends and ensure all connections are tight. Double check everything that was touched during the Noco connector install.
2. The battery is failing - admittedly it would be a big coincidence but it needs to be ruled out. Can you have the battery load tested? Also, try to measure the battery voltage while it is cranking next time it acts flaky. Batteries can be intermittent.
3. The Noco charger is faulty - if #1 and #2 are okay, can you go back to trying your old Battery Tender Jr. for a while?
4. Something else. :)
I actually tightened up the battery terminals when changing the leads from the Battery Tender to the Noco leads, so that shouldn't be an issue. Battery is just 2.5 years old and has been perfect so that would be a huge coincidence and very troubling if it was actually going bad. I can certainly switch back to the battery tender Jr. In fact, I normally doing use anything in the spring/summer/fall but I was just prepping for winter and that is why I hooked up the Noco.

Rob
 

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keep us posted. Hopefully it's a cheap resolution.

I would definitely try the old trickle charger.
 

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BigBlue, that's weird. As mentioned there's not much going on here with connections. Self explanatory. Did you check the in-line fuse by chance? I mean, you have continuity or ya don't.
Curious what your settings are that you're using on the NOCO. I set 12v small and it works fine. If your battery is known good, there's a short somewhere in the lead from the dash to the battery, or the charger itself. You might try pulling the in-line fuse, then crank it over. My guess is you got a faulty unit. Disconnect the dash charging lead from the battery, then try connecting the NOCO with the clamps only, and see if that rules out the in-dash add-on! Also, when the in-dash charge port was/is connected, what's it saying for battery state of charge?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
BigBlue, that's weird. As mentioned there's not much going on here with connections. Self explanatory. Did you check the in-line fuse by chance? I mean, you have continuity or ya don't.
Curious what your settings are that you're using on the NOCO. I set 12v small and it works fine. If your battery is known good, there's a short somewhere in the lead from the dash to the battery, or the charger itself. You might try pulling the in-line fuse, then crank it over. My guess is you got a faulty unit.
Yeah, it just doesn't make sense. That's why I'm confused. As for settings, I just pressed the button on the G750 once to switch into 12V charge/maintenance mode. Not trying anything fancy like the 'recovery' mode or anything. The battery was very healthy before this. I'm leaving the charger unhooked (but the dash plug hooked up) for a day to see if it makes a difference.

I'll go try to clean the terminals and re-tighten just to make sure, but I highly doubt that they are loose.

Rob
 

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Process of elimination, really.
I have the 3500 model so, I'm no help beyond what I already replied.
Hope you get it sorted.
 

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I have had battery tender, the brand name, cause my battery to go dead twice. The tender went bad and drained the battery to nothing. I would tend to say this is your problem since you checked everything else out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have had battery tender, the brand name, cause my battery to go dead twice. The tender went bad and drained the battery to nothing. I would tend to say this is your problem since you checked everything else out.
It doesn't really seem like the battery is actually 'dead' though. I suspect more like something is confusing the electronics of the tractor. After the blackout on the first attempts to start it then everything comes back and it starts up just fine, turning over as quickly as normal. And the battery voltage has been measured at 12.8-13.4V (tractor off, charger unhooked). To me, it is either a bad connection or the charger is messing with the tractor's electronics.

At lunch today I went out and removed the terminals, cleaned them (posts and inside the terminals) and reinstalled them tightly. Then I hooked the charger back up. It even turned green quickly, indicating the battery was fully charged already. If it fails again tomorrow the charger & dash plug go back. As a side note, the tractor started up just fine before and after I cleaned the terminals today. Charger was NOT hooked up since yesterday's snafu.

Rob
 

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I have had battery tender, the brand name, cause my battery to go dead twice. The tender went bad and drained the battery to nothing. I would tend to say this is your problem since you checked everything else out.
Have heard that more than a few times, another reason I don't use them. Since healthy lead acid batteries only self discharge 2-8% a month there's really no need for them over a normal winter layover, plus the cooler the temperature the slower they discharge.
 

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I recently saw a X738 that would not start because of a battery charger on it. I believe it is a function of the instrument cluster to shutdown in an over voltage condition to protect itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I recently saw a X738 that would not start because of a battery charger on it. I believe it is a function of the instrument cluster to shutdown in an over voltage condition to protect itself.
Interesting. But I'm removing the charger from the dash plug before I turn the key on the first time. And the gauge cluster does light up normally at first. It is just right after turning to 'start' the first time that it wigs out and blacks out.

Later today I should be able to test again after tightening the terminals on the battery and leaving the charger hooked up for a day. We'll see if that changes anything.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Id personally be leaning towards terminals/wiring issue, unless that cluster can shut down the cranking circuit (see below).
If it fires off fine at some point but not at others, its likely a loose or corroded connection somewhere.
The wires themselves will corrode internally at times, GM had a massive issue with this on their full size trucks.
Also, just because a terminal looks clean doesnt mean it doesnt have a film over it preventing a good connection.
Did you use a terminal cleaning brush to clean the posts and inside the ends?
I know you said you cleaned them, and not that you do, but some people have a different idea of cleaning terminals.
All of this is somewhat unlikely if its only a few years old and well tended to.
Corrosion usually takes years to build up enough to damage heavy wiring and create these kinds of issues, and youd likely see the buildup around the terminals.

Were it a battery issue, it would be a mostly constant issue if its not been moved between issues, and based on whats going on, its not, as you said it would not start initially, then crank fine. Same with an electrical issue related to the charger. If it had damaged the battery, the same would apply.
Bad batteries can do goofy things, but they generally never dont work then do.

The over voltage thing might be a possibility, if the cluster can shut down the cranking circuit. Its possible (very likely actually, if the cluster can do that) the new battery charger is keeping the battery charged to such a point that its "over voltage" to the cluster, and that by trying to start it or put a load on it, you are bringing it back down into the "normal voltage" range the cluster wants to see, allowing it to function normally after that.

Not necessarily this issue, but these kinds of things are why I dont use battery tenders or other things like this unless the machine is going to be sitting for more than a month or so. Heck, Ive had motorcycles sit in an unheated garage over the Winter and fire right up in the Spring with no charging at all. They were somewhat reluctant, but fuel injection sure helps, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I cleaned the posts and terminals with a wire brush (posts) and battery terminal 'reamer' (terminals). I then reattached and tightened them well. That should eliminate any concerns about connections. The tractor is only 2.5 years old and any other problems in the wiring is unlikely. It would be far too coincidental for this type of issue to present itself immediately after the change to the Noco wiring/charger if the issue is anywhere else besides the charger or terminal connection.

If it is an incompatibility between the Noco and the Deere's electronics it should continue today after I cleaned the terminals. If it was the terminals/connection then it should be gone now.

I've used multiple Battery Tender Jr. units on tractors, cycles, snowmobile batteries, boat batteries, trailer breakaway battery, etc. for many years with great success. I only use them in the winter but I've never seen them cause a problem. In fact, I've had great success with batteries in general with tractor batteries lasting 7-9 years and a motorcycle battery lasting 13 years (which is unheard of for one of those small batteries). Only in this situation with hooking up the Noco have I had a problem. Time will tell whether it is the Noco or a random connection issue that just happened to get aggravated with my change of leads.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Went out and tried to start the tractor at lunch. It fired right off, even though the charger was hooked up for 24 hours. At this point I'm leaning towards it being a loose connection at the terminal even though that seems contradictory (because I just tightened them when swapping the leads). But stranger things have happened. Will continue to monitor and report back if the problem re-occurs.

Rob
 

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sub'd to see future results
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Multiple days and multiple starts later and no further issues. I guess it was the terminal connections, thankfully.

Rob
 

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Good to hear the problem resolved. General rule of thumb (for me), when adding an eyelet connection to the battery, I always add a washer on each side to sandwich everything tight. Di-electric grease is also a good idea.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, whatever the issue is it isn't gone. I've used the tractor several times without issue in the last week and haven't had it hooked back up to the tender for most of that time. But today while starting the tractor several times for moving it around the shed to remove the bagger & mower and warming it up to do some service to it the no-start condition happened again. I guess I'll keep investigating...

Rob
 

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Well, whatever the issue is it isn't gone. The no-start condition happened again. I guess I'll keep investigating...

Rob
That's odd as heck. Best I can muster up, something is sensing it in the loop, or maybe there's a loose connection on the key switch? Guessing of course, and frustrating nonetheless!!
I can happily say mine operates problem free. Knock on wood
 
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