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I had my dealer install a block heater and a transmission oil heater in my 2032R. I plugged both of them in to test them. The block heater got hot to the touch in a few minutes, the transmission oil heater did not. I tested for continuity, made sure the plug was making contact, all seemed good. I left it plugged in for an hour and it was still cold to the touch.

I tried both with my inverter generator. When I plug in the block heater, the RPMs surge quite a bit, sensing the load. When I plug in the transmission oil heater, the RPMs raise slightly...very slightly. It's hard to notice, but definitely there. So something is happening. I'm just not sure what. I tried trimming some rubber off the plug in case the contacts were too deep, but that didn't change anything.

So is it possible that this thing is defective? How would it even be defective, it's just a metal loop!
 

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It's certainly possible it could be defective... I mean anything can be bad out of the box.

How did you test them for warmth if they are installed in the tractor?

What is the resistance of the transmission heater compared to the block heater?
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
What is the resistance of the transmission heater compared to the block heater?
I can't test the block heater...can barely get to it with my hand.

EDIT: I mean...I could always remove stuff to get to it, but I'm not that motivated right now. :)
 

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How did you test them for warmth if they are installed in the tractor?
Sorry...didn't notice this question before. By touching the brass part that on the outside of the tractor. As I said above, the block heater one was very warm after a few minutes, the transmission one was cold to the touch.
 

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I can't test the block heater...can barely get to it with my hand.

EDIT: I mean...I could always remove stuff to get to it, but I'm not that motivated right now. :)
Doesn't it have an electrical cord attached to it? You can simply measure the resistance at the end of the cord. ;-)
 

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Doesn't it have an electrical cord attached to it? You can simply measure the resistance at the end of the cord. ;-)
picard-facepalm.jpg

I feel dumb. :) It's been a long day!!

Okay, I will go measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Alright...33 ohms for the block heater, and 98 for the transmission heater. EDIT: I tested the transmission heater at the cord prongs and at the actual heater prongs, so I know now that the cord is fine.

That...doesn't sound wrong. The transmission oil heater is a much larger/longer element than the block heater. Maybe it's designed to work slowly so as not to ignite the transmission oil?? (I'm just grasping at straws here)
 

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I would think an easy test, though not fast, would be to check the temperature of the trans, near the heater. Then plug in the heater for a few hours and check again for a difference.
 
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Alright...33 ohms for the block heater, and 98 for the transmission heater. EDIT: I tested the transmission heater at the cord prongs and at the actual heater prongs, so I know now that the cord is fine.

That...doesn't sound wrong. The transmission oil heater is a much larger/longer element than the block heater. Maybe it's designed to work slowly so as not to ignite the transmission oil?? (I'm just grasping at straws here)
Those heaters are made by ZeroStart. I tried to look up which one the new 2032R used but didn't have any luck. It looks like some of them are 150W and others are 300W. 98 ohms would be about right for a 150W heater. I'm not even sure where it screws in on the Gen2 2-series. I have a 2720 and think the transmission heater is located at a different spot.

I don't think you need to worry about the heater igniting the oil but if it were too hot it could cook the oil close to the element.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Where is yours located? My 2038r which I thought would be the same is right there. Just checked it 99ohms.
Same place. Does yours get hot to the touch? How do you know if it's working?
 

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Same place. Does yours get hot to the touch? How do you know if it's working?
I will let you know tomorrow. I think when I first got it I plugged both heaters in to make sure they work but I don’t remember how warm it got. I did plug the block heater in the other day just to check but I did not do the transmission. My shop never gets below 50. I had them put in just in case I ever wanted them because they were not that expensive. I figured it would cost as much in oil and antifreeze to put it in later as the heater would be.
 
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Take an amp reading on the heater. Actual numbers don’t lie.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Take an amp reading on the heater. Actual numbers don’t lie.
I have no idea how to do that. The only way I know how to check amperage is to cut one of the wires and put the multimeter in line with the current flow, and...I'm not going to do that! :)
 
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I have no idea how to do that. The only way I know how to check amperage is to cut one of the wires and put the multimeter in line with the current flow, and...I'm not going to do that! :)
Right, you would need a clamp on amp meter with one of those little insertion loops. If it reads 98 ohms it is probably good unless it is a weird defect where it only opens up when you plug it in.
 

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Right, you would need a clamp on amp meter with one of those little insertion loops. If it reads 98 ohms it is probably good unless it is a weird defect where it only opens up when you plug it in.
I just ordered a clamp meter and an AC line splitter, so I guess I'll know for sure soon.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
 

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I just ordered a clamp meter and an AC line splitter, so I guess I'll know for sure soon.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
That should work. I was going to recommend getting one of these gizmos. You plug whatever you are measuring right into the back and then the meter reads either amps or watts. It's very similar to those Kill-A-Watt meter except it doesn't calculate costs. I use it for appliances and anything else that I need a quick amp/watt check.

[h=1]Reliance Controls THP103 AmWatt Appliance Load Tester/Plug-in Ammeter and Wattmeter[/h]
 

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That should work. I was going to recommend getting one of these gizmos. You plug whatever you are measuring right into the back and then the meter reads either amps or watts. It's very similar to those Kill-A-Watt meter except it doesn't calculate costs. I use it for appliances and anything else that I need a quick amp/watt check.
That's much better for my purposes and less expensive. Thank you! I cancelled my previous order and got this instead. I love Amazon.
 

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That's much better for my purposes and less expensive. Thank you! I cancelled my previous order and got this instead. I love Amazon.
Nice! Yeah, I love mine. It is so quick and easy to check amps/watts. I originally bought it when I was sizing things for my generator. It also allowed me to see that my stupid DVR was drawing 100 watts even when turned off. :)
 

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Checked mine today .8 Amps with a clamp on. I was only able to run it 15mins but it did get a little warm. Biggest sign it is working is when you unplug it after it has been on there it will arc a little.
 
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