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This is great info - I’ve not even got it out of the wrapper yet, but I’ll take a dive into the manual as soon as I do. I really appreciate the insight here, hoping it will make things as seamless as possible.
Good luck!
If yours came the way mine did, when you remove the wrapper you'll find that it sits in a custom metal crate. Well, more like a kind of rack.
To get the mower out of that, attach it to the tractor, lift it up, and then you can wriggle the rack out from under it.

Mine even came with bushings for the iMatch, works great and fits well. Didn't even have to cut the PTO shaft (with flail mowers, the shaft is rather long and so has a lot of adjustment length)

But you'll be happy with it, I mowed some overgrown ugly corner on our property with small trees (0.5" diameter or so) and it didn't even flinch.
I have the hammer blades.

But, it needs to be said, it's not a finish mower that has wheels in the front and the back which would provide a consistent mowing height. Which means that the mowing height, which can be adjusted by tilting the mower via the top link (in addition to the rear roller height), varies depending on terrain. Especially when going uphill and the terrain levels out, or when going from level terrain to downhill, the geometry of the rear rollers and the tractor's rear axle changes, and mowing height decreases. Same when going from level to uphill, it'll increase. I've scalped some areas of my lawn (zero-turn was in the shop, so I used the flail) on accident.
So for pastures and overgrown fields, great, to mow a lawn at 2-3", not so much. Plus, it doesn't mulch very well, so it left quite some windrows.
 
Very interesting, thank you! I but 5 acres of property and am currently building a home. The property is overrun with weeds and sumac at the moment. I’ve had it professionally “mulched” with a rotary forestry drum, and now it will be sprayed (e.g. nuked) here in about 10 days. My goal is to knock it down after the spray/before winter. From there I intend to plant native grasses, wildflowers, etc and “prairie” most of it. I’m hoping to only mow once a year before winter so I’m hoping this will be nearly perfect. I’ve also grabbed a box blade to try to pick up as much of the mulch as reasonable!
 
I'm not sure a box blade is the right tool to pick up mulch. I'm thinking that a rake would be much better at it.
But if it's been wilderness before, woody "weeds", whatever they may be, will still have roots in the ground, and will come up again. Chemical Nuking will only work if they have leaves.
I would use a selective herbicide in any case, and not Glyphosate, to preserve any grasses you already have.
 
I don’t know that there is a single blade of healthy grass in the entire 5 acres. We’ve let the woody weeds come back up, will spray now - and wait at least 10 days to mow down (probably longer though). I decided on the box blade as a bit of a compromise, I need to smooth a bit of earth, and probably get some of the roots up - so we will see how the box blade does.
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
You do know that the manual says to run it 15min lifted off the ground to run it in?
I forgot that, thank you! If I remember right, run it engaged at idle for 5 mins, then half throttle for 5 mins, then PTO @ 540 RPM for 5 mins.

Again, double check the manual, it's in there.
 
Also curious about the quick attach, GoodWorks (who I purchased from) states it’s not QH compatible - will need to do some investigating.
No need. I got mine from GWT, too, and it came with the QH bushings (it attaches outside of the flanges instead of in between them like a standard 3-point would).
With those, it fits the iMatch. You may need to adjust the top hook, though, but I have that with most attachments.
 
No need. I got mine from GWT, too, and it came with the QH bushings (it attaches outside of the flanges instead of in between them like a standard 3-point would).
With those, it fits the iMatch. You may need to adjust the top hook, though, but I have that with most attachments.
Well what a pleasant surprise that is! Unlike GWT to have incorrect info published….
 
Well what a pleasant surprise that is! Unlike GWT to have incorrect info published….
Well, what can I say?
I, too, was already prepared to modify the mower to make it QH compatible, and was equally pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to.
 
Do any of you have pics of the mower with the quick hitch bushing fitted? I'm wondering if the design changed from older models.
It's nothing special, really, but I can see if I can snap a picture.
But you can see it in the manual here as well, page 14.
The regular hitch goes in between the two flanges, but the QH extends the bolt outside the flanges, where the bushings are hammered in.
 
It's nothing special, really, but I can see if I can snap a picture.
But you can see it in the manual here as well, page 14.
The regular hitch goes in between the two flanges, but the QH extends the bolt outside the flanges, where the bushings are hammered in.

Ahh, it looks like they changed the mounting flanges. On my model from last year it only has a single ear like the picture on page 1.
 
Ahh, it looks like they changed the mounting flanges. On my model from last year it only has a single ear like the picture on page 1.
Interesting. Seems I got lucky.
So on your model with the "single flanges", the distance between the pins is too short to use the iMatch?
 
Correct, way too narrow.
Strange, that they only recently changed the design to make it compatible. It's not rocket science.
Of course, you can always make yours compatible with a bit of steel and a welder, but honestly, you shouldn't have to.
 
Strange, that they only recently changed the design to make it compatible. It's not rocket science.
Of course, you can always make yours compatible with a bit of steel and a welder, but honestly, you shouldn't have to.
If you get a chance, it'd be cool if you could take some measurements of the frame front and back. I'll post some pics this weekend of what mine is like. I'm hoping if nothing else the frame where it mounts to the tractor is a direct swap.
 
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