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Trying to figure out how much cobbling it would take to make it work. I see Yesterday's Tractor and Steiner sell ones that might work in most tractors older than 1980. Anyone do this? I'm pretty sure my alternator is on it's way out. This would eliminate the regulator too. 2 birds with one stone.
 

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It is very common in my neck of the woods.
There is still an automotive electric repair shop in the area. They rebuild all makes and models of alternators, starters, etc.
They will convert a Delco to one wire operation.
I suppose you could do some googling and get the parts yourself, but I never looked in to it as the local shop does it so cheaply as part of a rebuild anyway.
I wouldn’t be surprised if Napa sold them!
 

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Match the pulley to the correct width and diameter for RPMs. They need to come up in the RPMs above a idle to start working good.

Just found this on it;
GM 1-wire operation
Most 1-wire alternators have a charging point set around 1200rpm or higher. This is the speed where the internal sensory circuit connects the battery voltage to the regulator, thereby turning the alternator on. Once the voltage regulator turns on, the alternator will remain on and charging until the engine comes to a complete stop. If the engine idle speed and pulley ratio combination does not allow the alternator to come to during start-up, the engine will have to increase the RPM to engage the one wire alternator. One exception to this is Tuff Stuff's heavy duty 140 amp performance alternator rated to charge 80amps at 750rpm.
Pulley combinations
Changing the pulley ratio on the alternator by slowing it down will generally keep a one-wire regulator from charging. This can also produce a low voltage problem at engine idle speed depending on the amount of reduction. Alternators are usually tested with a 3:1 pulley ratio. This is the recommended street pulley ratio and is used in most factory applications.

Here is a RPM Calculator; http://www3.telus.net/shebang/pulley_calculator.html
 
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