Here is what they look like. They are a stainless steel tube with a brazed on commercial cutter head. They are removable from the bit holder so that the samples can be pushed out with a dowel rod.
He nails a guide plate to the beam to stop it wandering. Just like if you want to enlarge a hole with a holesaw. Drill though a scrape piece of wood and clamp or nail the board to center the bit.That is very interesting...how does it get started without the pilot?
I don't know anybody of the top of my head, but maybe look for a Tool and Die shop possibly-they often due custom work.
If you think you can do this for him for a reasonable fee PM me your contact info and I will forward the info.as a machinist that looks to be a pretty simple job. unless he wants total new ones made, they can just replace the bimetal holesaw on the end. cut the old one off, modify the new one, and reattach.
he may also want to look into a carbide tipped hole saw for a replacement? they should last a LOT longer
any tool & die or machine shop(not engine rebuilding machine shop) should be able to do this.
I don't believe that these drill bits work on old hard dry wood very well. I am looking for a machine shop that can braze a new cutter onto the existing bits. I believe that the cutters are standard hole saws that have had the back cut off and then are brazed onto the custom shaft.Do a search for an increment borer. It is the tool foresters use to age trees, the core sample may be smaller than the one shown in your picture. One forester supply house is called Ben Meadows.
Nice job Kenny!!!:good2:Yup...Me. I just can't say no:laugh:
I did two for Mick the other week, and he liked them so I got the rest from him this past week.
I did indeed use carbide tipped hole saws as 4verticle suggested, and after parting off the threaded piece on the end I turned them to fit inside the tubing.
I got 7 bits made up today on the lathe, still need to braze them.
Beautiful work Ken, thanks for helping out Mick.