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RIP Chris
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I decided to share this hoping it might help someone else. A month ago, I mustered up the gusto to clean up some debris around the yard that was bugging me and the wife. I pushed back some brush that was imposing on our trails from the winter. We also pulled out a huge burning bush, roots and all (yes, using the drawbar). Everything was then grappled out to a brush pile at the back of the property, altogether a few hours work. At some point later, I was mortified to find that the grill had somehow been mashed in.

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Upon a quick inspection, I could see that although the dent wasn't massive, the damage to the grill components was and the hood was going to have to come off just to determine what was needed. Unfortunately, it appears the junior cubicle jockeys at Deere saw fit to construct this grill out of several intricate little bits and pieces instead of basic and robust parts. I guess this is necessary to get the style and appearance of the model line. There are tons of tiny 3mm screws, rivets, and pricey fancy rubber backed washers.

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So after all is said and done, this adds up to just south of $450 worth of damage. Replacing the whole hood would have been around $1400. This tractor has just over 100 hours on the clock so there's no way I can leave it like that. So there she sits, waiting for the replacements to arrive. Thankfully, I don't have any needs for it right now so it's no big deal.

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Having owned both 1000 series and 2000 series tractors, I can confidently say that one of the things I enjoy the least about this size tractor is the tremendous dead spot of visibility in front of them. And I know that it only gets worse and worse as you go up in size. I say this as something to consider for anyone dreaming of jumping into a larger tractor. Two other downsides I would mention while on the subject would be the higher center of gravity (tippiness) and the much less sensitive loader joystick controls (due to the use of cables instead of a direct connection to the SCV). But, until recently, if you wanted a Deere with a cab, the 3000R's were it.

With regard to the damage to my grill, for those thinking I should have had the add-on brush guard from Deere installed, it would not have helped. This particular piece of debris somehow snaked under the lowest cross bar of the brush guard and the add-on Deere unit doesn't cover that area.

:greentractorride:
 

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That's a bummer. I was just pushing into a brush pile this morning with my 2720. My guard is like yours and is pretty much useless at protecting the grill from protruding objects. I see they make an add-on screen for your 3-series loader. I wish they had something similar for the 200CX loaders.


 

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Man, I'm sorry for your troubles and like you, I couldn't leave my tractor like that either. I am amazed I have not had the same damage occur to my 3520 yet. You are spot on regarding the tremendous dead spot in visibility. This is my first tractor with a cab and although it's great for doing work that doesn't require attention to detail such a driving across fields bushhogging, the cab stinks for those tasks you really need to see what your doing. The tippiness is also another issue that I underestimated the true extent of when I decided to purchase a cab tractor. The first two years of ownership I was unable to operate the 3520 in some areas that I had always maintained with the previous tractors I owned. The cab was a big factor but the narrow wheel base the R4's created was another huge factor. I finally purchased R1's and wheels that allow for various tread widths and can honestly say it was the best money I have spent on the tractor yet. The stability the tractor now has is great! I would suggest anyone owning a cab 3 series who is experiencing regular pucker moments to look into wheel spacers or switching to R1's and wheels that allow for various tread widths. Having a wider stance on my tractor has made it a completely different machine!
 

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RIP Chris
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Discussion Starter #5
This is also the first tractor I've had that was also tip-sensitive fore and aft. I crested a hill top with the backhoe mounted and just my Artillian forks on front. When the front wheels reached the crest of the hill, the front of the tractor just kept driving skyward. Luckily, letting jerkishly off the pedal was just enough to bring the wheels back down after a second or so. If that hadn't worked, I'd have been helpless and rolled it straight backward, and then likely to one side or another.

If that didn't kill me, my wife would have. She was about 50 feet away.
 

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RIP Chris
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Discussion Starter #6
Project complete. All together, it took about 7-8 hours to perform. The hardest part was guessing what order things had to be put back and in some cases, where exactly they went.

With a job like this where you have no instructions other than a screen shot of the John Deere parts exploded view web page, it's tough to guess the assembly order on the first try. Therefore, there was a lot of "one step forward and two steps back". This especially stinks when some of the parts get riveted together using special JD rivets. Fortunately, when all was said and done, we had no leftover fasteners. And due to some confusingly redundant part ordering, the final cost was reduced to around $275.

I hope this doesn't happen to too many others!

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That looks GREATc Chris!! :bigthumb:

You are obviously much more anal about stuff like that than I am. I put a dent in my grill the first year I had my tractor. It's still there. :laugh: :hide:
Yeah..a bit LOL
 

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RIP Chris
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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah..a bit LOL
Now I've heard it all. Look at the pot calling the kettle black! :laugh:

Mark, I considered leaving it but with such low hours on this tractor and a strong likelihood that it will be going up for sale in the not too distant future, I just couldn't leave it with that black eye.

Plus, the 3720 Cab has sort of been my dream tractor for years, not to sound silly, but now that I actually have one, it does get treated like a bit of a prize. In fact, my new truck sits outside, ha ha.
 

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Damaged Grill

Well, yesterday I decided to do a small amount of brush removal/take down and wasn't paying attention ...:banghead:.... Guess I need to get those grill guards mentioned earlier in this thread.
 

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Good thing I worked some overtime last week.....

John Deere Front Screen Part # LVU30712 $114.79
 

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I've got some dents in my grill also. There when I bought it. Not as bad as OP's tho.
I was going to fix them when I had some time and felt ambitious.
No hurry as its just cosmetic.

If I'm going to go near a brush pile you can bet the grapple is going to be doing the work not the grill guard.
 

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I just installed this to the front of my tractor, I think it looks good, and I think it will protect it
I would not use my tractor with out the grill gaurd screen. It save my grill a few times.
 

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Grill Replacement

Started the grill replacment this evening. It looked to be a difficult challange to get it out of the 2038R but after a bit of trial and error(removing unnecesary things), it was pretty simple.

Open hood, remove sides, unhook 1 connector on fire wall for lights, remove 4 nuts(2 on each side) from the bottom inside that hold down the whole front assembly. In the last 3 pics, I have already removed the bottom "green" part that helps to hold the grill in place. There are 3 screws in it which I removed while the whole assembly was still in place. The center one proved quite difficult due to the battery being in the way. And thus the trial and error. After grill assembly removal, all screws are very accessible.

I took my battery out to clean unneath it and all around the front end. Vaccumed the radiator very carefully.
 

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Next came the removing all of the screws that hold the grill/screen in place. There are 6 Torx down each side and 6 Torx across the bottom front. Inside of assembly, there are 2 bracket on either top inside that have 5 torx screws in it. T25 and T20 are the sizes.
 

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Then came odd things. As stated in the previous post, all of the screws have been Torx.....Well the next 6 were Phillips. Not sure why these were phillps but they are just under the headlights as you will see from the photo.(I have the grill upside down on the floor).

Then I noticed these 2 connectors just hanging out not attached to anything. They are part of the lights circuit. Anyone have any idea why they are there???

And finally, I discovered that the "JD" logo is rivieted in place. According to the drawing, I have to peal out the JD foam sticker and drill out the bracket. Or, I can just order both parts and leave that one in place. Either way, I have to order the JD sticker.......
 

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Put Back Together

Well everything is back in place except the $12 "leaping deer" sticky logo that I ordered. As you can see from the 3rd and 4th photos, there is a very nice "resting" place for the grill assy. to make removing the battery easy.
 

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Now to figure out some way to protect the sides of the screen/grill...... With the factory guard, there are no extra holes(as you can see from the photos). So not sure what or how to protect any of it. Not a very good design idea by Deere.
 
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