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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed that my diff lock lever rested against the plastic trim in a way that it caused my deck knob height indicator to be crooked. I pressed down on the lever with my hand to the floor and it only returned back up half way. When I climbed under the tractor I could see the linkage had cocked and bound up. (1 & 2 pic)After some choice words I was able to get it seat again (pic 3) and the lever returned all the way up again against the plastic trim.
1) Should it rest against the trim, if so do others have the issue where it distorts the height indicator. (Pic 4)
2) There is a lot of play in the linkage below and I see the rod can be adjusted by tightening the nut against the spring. Where should the lever rod rest in the half moon opening on the trans shaft?
Sorry for the multiple questions, but one lead to the other, thanks!






2018 - 1025R
120R, 60D, 54SB, iMatch, Ballast Box
 

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The plastic under the knob on mine has always been off center in fact so bad the plastic broke out where the two small screws secure it down. I trimmed out the plastic a bit to center it up drilled two new holes and screwed it back in place. Not good looking fix but I wasn’t going to spend a lot of time to make it pretty. A metal round plate to face the thing would be much better.

The posi foot rod is only stopped by the lip of the plastic cover. Not a good situation trying to keep the rod from sliding under the plastic cover when reassembling.
 

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It's a crappy design. My 1025r was delivered with the Diff Lock jammed in Lock mode. Dealer never noticed what was quite obvious to me as soon as I drove it and made a turn on asphalt. I unjammed it myself and installed a large washer. Have had no problem since.
 

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It's a crappy design. My 1025r was delivered with the Diff Lock jammed in Lock mode. Dealer never noticed what was quite obvious to me as soon as I drove it and made a turn on asphalt. I unjammed it myself and installed a large washer. Have had no problem since.
That sounds like a good idea. The first thing I did was look at the parts diagram because I was certain it was missing a washer and cotter key. Nope! Poor design for sure.
 
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I took a look at one of mine this afternoon. The rod end has the stamped dimples protruding 180 degrees apart to hold it in the slot. The rod would have to be turned so the dimples are in line with the mating slot. I couldn't pull mine out to replicate the cocked position the OP's photos depicted.

As low as this is, bottom front of the transaxle, I'm guessing you hooked the rod on something and sheered the dimples off. The "fix" would be to drill the end of the shaft to accept a cotter pin and re-install with a flat washer, which you apparently did. I agree, not a good design for as low as it is and likely subject to protruding ground obstructions.

The shaft the slotted eccentric is attached to passes through the transaxle to other side where there is another slotted eccentric and mating rod. That side's rod has a cotter pin and flat washer. Go figure.
 
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2018 - 1025R120R, 60D, 54SB, iMatch, Ballast Box
In this first picture it appears that there already is a hole in the rod end that protrudes through . . . or is it just me? :unknown: If so just a washer and cotter pin are possibly the cure. :unknown:

I need to crawl under my 1026R and check it out . . . although I've never noticed a problem from top-side. :unknown:
 
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Discussion Starter #7
It is just a dimple on either side of the rod, no hole...however the corresponding rod on the other side uses a pin and washer. There is a whole lot of play in the linkage assembly.


2018 - 1025R
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I find it hard to believe that a designer or engineer with an aptitude for mechanical hardware would create a situation like this. Are bean counters incharge of the design of JD products? Even the stupidest person one could imagine would not create a design as such. How in gods name has the design of products today become so lame and disfunctional?

The most simplistic stupid thing has wires on it with some type of circuit in the name of safety. This is BS. How long till the toilet is computer controlled?:unknown::unknown:
 

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I find it hard to believe that a designer or engineer with an aptitude for mechanical hardware would create a situation like this. Are bean counters incharge of the design of JD products? Even the stupidest person one could imagine would not create a design as such. How in gods name has the design of products today become so lame and disfunctional?

The most simplistic stupid thing has wires on it with some type of circuit in the name of safety. This is BS. How long till the toilet is computer controlled?:unknown::unknown:
I am working on that right now, I want to be able to tell Alexa to flush the toilet...:cheers:

(Before anyone tells me how lazy I am...My wife is disabled)
 
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I am working on that right now, I want to be able to tell Alexa to flush the toilet...:cheers:

(Before anyone tells me how lazy I am...My wife is disabled)
We can't be too far away from that - public toilets obviously have motion sensors to flush them. Also, maybe investigate Japanese toilet brands. A friend was visiting Japan last year and it was extremely common to find toilets which had all sorts of electronic gizmos: heated seats, "white-noise" sounds to mask the sounds we make while using toilets (not kidding!), short-flush, long-flush...

:cheers:
 
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