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There are 4 wires on the plug and the correct 2 must be jumped. It was so easy, even a Caveman could do it.
Thank you Larry!

I jumpered the red and orange wires at the back end of the plug.
Now I can say "Even Sailor Don can do it!" I just added some electrical tape over the back of the plug to keep the jumper wire in place.
This photo is before the electrical tape.



I tested it out and it works perfectly. :thumbup1gif:
.
 

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I finally got around to jumpering the switch. Best 10 minutes I've ever spent!
 

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Spent some time doing some "upgrades" to the 1026R today, one of which was adding the jumper wire to disable the RIO, as was said before. Best time ever spent! Only took 15 minutes or so once the l/h side panel was off but what a difference!
Also added an electric remote spout control to the blower, works great.
 

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I added the jumper wire after the first time I mowed. Works great. So easy even a cave man can do it.:laugh::bye2:
 

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I may not be in the right thread but maybe someone here can help. I just used my new 54" front blower for the first time and I still have to lift the pto button when I go in reverse. I read on here somewhere that the sensor on the pto shaft is supposed to eliminate the need to do this. My sensor is wired back to a plug near the starter so it appears to be hooked up but the RIO is still causing me grief. I can do the disable as described here, but would like to know for sure if I need to. Maybe I have a faulty sensor?? Anyone know for sure what this sensor does or how it should function. Thanks.
 

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I may not be in the right thread but maybe someone here can help. I just used my new 54" front blower for the first time and I still have to lift the pto button when I go in reverse. I read on here somewhere that the sensor on the pto shaft is supposed to eliminate the need to do this. My sensor is wired back to a plug near the starter so it appears to be hooked up but the RIO is still causing me grief. I can do the disable as described here, but would like to know for sure if I need to. Maybe I have a faulty sensor?? Anyone know for sure what this sensor does or how it should function. Thanks.
See if this thread helps any: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...implement-operation-front-power-take-off.html
 

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Thanks Kennyd, that was the thread I had read before. However, still sounds like nobody really knows what this sensor is for. It doesn't disable the RIO, at least not on mine. Guess I'll be doing some jumper ing.
 

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CAUTION: Disabling any feature that is intended as a safety device can subject the operator of the modified equipment and those in the immediate vicinity to an increased risk of injury or death. Please use your own best judgment when performing any safety modification to your equipment.

Note: The photos shown here are of a John Deere 1026R with a serial number beyond 210000.

You will need the following tools:
  • 10mm open end wrench
  • Socket wrench
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Small allen wrench
  • #3 Phillips head screwdriver (#2 will work as well)

Remove the lower kick panel from the operator's station
  • Remove the deck height adjustment knob by pulling straight up on the knob. It is friction fit; there is no set screw.
  • For 1026Rs, loosen the set screw on the rate of drop dial using an allen wrench and slide the knob off of the adjustment rod.
  • Remove the 10mm bolt and washer from both sides of the operator station kick panel. These are the top bolts located just below the seat on both sides. Be careful not to lose the metal spacers. When you pull the bolt out it should be sitting in the well where the bolt was just removed.
  • Remove #3 phillips head screws and washers from the bottom portion of the kick panel. You'll find these in the recessed holes on both sides of the operator's station.
  • At this point you should be able to wiggle the kick panel free. Note that the top of the panel is tabbed and rests underneath the plastic panels on each side of the operator's seat. The middle of the kick panel rest underneath the seat mounting platform. Set the panel aside.
  • Optional: Take a moment to note just how dirty your machine gets in the places you cant normally see or get too.:laugh:


The Reverse Sensing Switch (RSS)

In the photos below, you'll see the switch that lets the control circuits of the tractor understand when the reverse pedal has been pressed. The lever action is such that when neither pedal is being pressed, the RSS is depressed. When the forward pedal is pressed, the RSS is depressed. When the reverse pedal is pressed, the RSS is released and the switch is deactivated. I used a circuit tracer (hey, use what you got:thumbup1gif: ) to run some traces on the contacts. This demonstrated to me that the two left terminals (from referencing the third photo below) are normally connected to complete a circuit. When the switch is depressed these terminals are opened and the two right terminals are closed completing a circuit. It is also worth noting that if you disconnect the switch and switch the ignition to START, the LCD will display REVERSE SENSOR ERROR. The tractor knows to look for that switch during POST!











How to override the RSS


In theory, you could just jumper the two mating terminals on the right (from reference in photo above and the red and blue wires in the second photo below) and call it a day. However, I wanted to be able to leave everything connected and make the switch stay depressed. Here is where you can get creative. Below is what I did to accomplish the task.

I had an old piece of angled aluminum from an old garage door sensor mount. I modified it by cutting off the excess and drilling two mount holes that matched the dimensions of the screws used to mount the RSS to the bracket. The screws are 8mm with 10mm nuts. Once everything was mounted back up, the angled bracket kept the switch depressed.





I jumped up on the seat, started the tractor, activated the mid-PTO, and pressed the reverse pedal. SUCCESS, the mower stayed running!:yahoo:

After a little more testing, I put the kick panel back on in the same manner in which it was removed. Looks factory original, and all I have to do to enable the "safety feature" of the RSS is remove my angled bracket.

I'd like to thank an anonymous contributor that helped point me in the right direction to look for this switch. PLEASE, be careful anytime you are using your tractors and be aware that disabling any safety feature puts the responsibility[/javascript://:banghead::gaah:B] on you to perform in its stead.

:bye2:

now is this under the seat or on the reverse pedal. im confused :gaah:
 

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It's under the seat. I think you're confused a tad because it is the reverse pedal linkage on the trans.
 

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alright got it now thanks
It's easier and faster to jump the two wires on the back of the pto plug. No splicing, wire will just slide in. Plus you can take it out if you take tractor in for any warranty work. Just my .o2 cents. I can post some pics if you like, but in this thread thier is already a few posted.
 
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I went the jumper route.

I cut a thin strip of old credit card to use a disengage the wires. Text Paper Material property Paper product Stationery


insert card into plug front and wire should be able to pull out the back (note because i've already pulled mine the pic is just an example using the wrong port.) Hand Finger


I created a short jumper with a electrical blade on each end. Auto part Bumper Wire Automotive exterior


attach both ends. Wire Auto part Gas Electrical wiring


now plug connector back into switch.

thanks for everyone's help.
 

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Different Route

I went a Slightly Different Route about Disabling mine. I have a 13 year old. Not that I will let him use my New tractor yet but some day he might be allowed to. I used the Jumper Method but installed a Switch so I can Disable it for me (I feel responsible enough most days) and can flip a switch (hidden) and allow all the normal PTO system Operation.
Here is the back of the original PTO switch.
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car

And Here is My new PTO bypass Switch
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Fender

Bottom of switch Mounted next to fuse panel and mostly sealed off
Auto part Technology Metal

I got the Switch from RadioShack. I was able to change the Rubber cap to Yellow so It matches.
Green Vehicle Automotive exterior Hood Grass

And here with the Hood closed so it can not be switched on a accident
Land vehicle Vehicle Tractor Motor vehicle Agricultural machinery
 

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Remove the lone nut and bolt at the front of the the panel accessible when you open the hood and just slide the panel forward. To replace just reverse process but only snug the nut and bolt. Over tightening can ruin the panel.
 

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The instructions from ncisrael are right on. Very easy... The pics are a bit blurry so I've included mine here.

Simply use some crimp-on blade connectors and connect the jumper wire to the red and yellow wire as shown.
Wire Electrical wiring Cable Technology Circuit component


Once done, put the switch back and reinstall the panel.

Fuel line Wire Auto part Coil spring Hose


The most difficult part for me was lining up the panel so the hood closes properly. Be sure to test close it before putting the tools away...

Toby
 
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