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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry for the long post that follows. I'm pretty frustrated at the moment.

Anybody see a bunch of problems right out of the gate with a new 1025R? Up until today all I have had time to do is tool around in the yard for a few minutes one night before putting it in the garage. It's a brand new FILB I posted about last Monday in the "what did you do today" thread. It was delivered the Friday before last with a statement of "full of fuel & ready to go" from the salesman.

Today I planned to get the backhoe & loader off, look it over, add Ken's diff lock pedal & springs, do the RIO override, put wheel weights on, & mow.

Removing the backhoe was a real experience, but it was my 1st try. I sure hope it gets smoother. The RIO override & installing Ken's products went pretty smoothly. That's where easy ended.

I started looking things over to familiarize myself & checking fluids & discovered you almost need to be double or triple jointed to get to the engine & tranny dipsticks, at least with the loader mounted. As far as I can tell, the engine is way over filled with oil, the front axle also seems to be over filled with fluid, & it was low on coolant. I also found a small rubber hose of some sort about a foot long laying on top of the battery. Speaking of which, is a tarp strap the standard battery hold down in these? That seems a bit cheesy on a $20k+ machine. Not a good look for the dealership so far in my opinion. Off to the dealer I go to spend almost $50 on fluids to make sure I have everything since it needed coolant. I let the parts guy know that I wasn't impressed. I added coolant but haven't drained any of the other fluids yet. I assume that it's a really bad idea to run it much more without doing so? Please correct me if I'm wrong because I'd obviously rather not take more time fixing someone else's mistakes.

Next, I went to mount my starter weight + two 50lb wheel weights on each side for extra stability on my hills. The 1st thing I noticed when I got down on the floor is that there was a nut missing from one of the bolts that holds the hitch & part of the hoe subframe. Back to the dealer to get a nut. I made sure the parts guy new I wasn't impressed. That's a strike against the factory for not putting it on & a strike against the dealership for not catching it as far as I'm concerned. After I got home I proceeded to mess with wheel weights on the right side for over 2 hours & could never get them to look right & line up so I could access the valve stem. I tried every combo I could think of & read a bunch of threads about it. No dice. I finally went over to the other side & it looks to me like the wheel centers are welded to the outsides differently. On the left side there is definitely more of an offset in timing between the valve stem & the closest square hole in the center than on the right. I'm thinking that's another ding against the factory.

Also, the deck appears to be about a 1/4" or so out of level from side to side. I can't remember if that's good enough or not. I'll have to check my manual. I know it's expected here that the dealership won't do that part right. I may just be nit-picking at this point because I'm so discouraged.

Lastly, I've seen some posts on Facebook about a change to the air cleaner because the bracket bolted to the top of the engine can crack the intake from vibration. My salesman says he can't find anything about it. I was at the dealership a couple days ago & popped the hoods on 3 new 1025R's on the lot to find that they have the new set up while the tractor I had delivered a week ago has the old style set up.

My 1st payment is due the 25th. I have put less than an hour on this thing & haven't even managed to mow my yard after screwing around trying to get it ready for 6 hours or so today. I'm about ready to tell the dealership on Monday to come get this thing & drive it where the sun don't shine. I expected a lot better for the money I paid, especially with the delivering salesman telling me it was "ready to go".

Anyone have any great advise, words of wisdom, encouragement, etc...? Am I expecting too much? Am I checking things incorrectly? Please feel free to let me have it if you more experienced guys think I'm just being a cry baby. This is my 1st foray into anything more complicated or newer than the vintage hydro gas powered garden tractors.

Thanks.
 

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Sorry for the long post that follows. I'm pretty frustrated at the moment.

Anybody see a bunch of problems right out of the gate with a new 1025R? Up until today all I have had time to do is tool around in the yard for a few minutes one night before putting it in the garage. It's a brand new FILB I posted about last Monday in the "what did you do today" thread. It was delivered the Friday before last with a statement of "full of fuel & ready to go" from the salesman.

Today I planned to get the backhoe & loader off, look it over, add Ken's diff lock pedal & springs, do the RIO override, put wheel weights on, & mow.

Removing the backhoe was a real experience, but it was my 1st try. I sure hope it gets smoother. The RIO override & installing Ken's products went pretty smoothly. That's where easy ended.

I started looking things over to familiarize myself & checking fluids & discovered you almost need to be double or triple jointed to get to the engine & tranny dipsticks, at least with the loader mounted. As far as I can tell, the engine is way over filled with oil, the front axle also seems to be over filled with fluid, & it was low on coolant. I also found a small rubber hose of some sort about a foot long laying on top of the battery. Speaking of which, is a tarp strap the standard battery hold down in these? That seems a bit cheesy on a $20k+ machine. Not a good look for the dealership so far in my opinion. Off to the dealer I go to spend almost $50 on fluids to make sure I have everything since it needed coolant. I let the parts guy know that I wasn't impressed. I added coolant but haven't drained any of the other fluids yet. I assume that it's a really bad idea to run it much more without doing so? Please correct me if I'm wrong because I'd obviously rather not take more time fixing someone else's mistakes.

Next, I went to mount my starter weight + two 50lb wheel weights on each side for extra stability on my hills. The 1st thing I noticed when I got down on the floor is that there was a nut missing from one of the bolts that holds the hitch & part of the hoe subframe. Back to the dealer to get a nut. I made sure the parts guy new I wasn't impressed. That's a strike against the factory for not putting it on & a strike against the dealership for not catching it as far as I'm concerned. After I got home I proceeded to mess with wheel weights on the right side for over 2 hours & could never get them to look right & line up so I could access the valve stem. I tried every combo I could think of & read a bunch of threads about it. No dice. I finally went over to the other side & it looks to me like the wheel centers are welded to the outsides differently. On the left side there is definitely more of an offset in timing between the valve stem & the closest square hole in the center than on the right. I'm thinking that's another ding against the factory.

Also, the deck appears to be about a 1/4" or so out of level from side to side. I can't remember if that's good enough or not. I'll have to check my manual. I know it's expected here that the dealership won't do that part right. I may just be nit-picking at this point because I'm so discouraged.

Lastly, I've seen some posts on Facebook about a change to the air cleaner because the bracket bolted to the top of the engine can crack the intake from vibration. My salesman says he can't find anything about it. I was at the dealership a couple days ago & popped the hoods on 3 new 1025R's on the lot to find that they have the new set up while the tractor I had delivered a week ago has the old style set up.

My 1st payment is due the 25th. I have put less than an hour on this thing & haven't even managed to mow my yard after screwing around trying to get it ready for 6 hours or so today. I'm about ready to tell the dealership on Monday to come get this thing & drive it where the sun don't shine. I expected a lot better for the money I paid, especially with the delivering salesman telling me it was "ready to go".

Anyone have any great advise, words of wisdom, encouragement, etc...? Am I expecting too much? Am I checking things incorrectly? Please feel free to let me have it if you more experienced guys think I'm just being a cry baby. This is my 1st foray into anything more complicated or newer than the vintage hydro gas powered garden tractors.

Thanks.


First, no need to apologize, we're here to help if we can, and we certainly can understand your frustrations.

Removing the backhoe takes practice. I transferred a lot of green paint until I got the hang of it, but I did spend a few hours practicing. Then I got a cart. What I found was that I had to ignore all the videos on youtube, and follow the directions on the sticker right on the backhoe. Bottom line, yes, it takes a bit to get the hang of.

Yes tarp strap is the hold down. Simple and effective, I don't see the need for something more complicated. I can't speak to the rest in that paragraph, it sounds like poor dealer prep to me. I would have contacted my salesman and insisted that they correct the fluids, instead of you buying them.

Deck levelling will also be another dealer prep item. There is a sticky thread up top to describe how to properly install and adjust the mower. It appears most dealers do it incorrrectly, and you're probably better off doing it yourself.

My 2018 has the new style filter. Are you sure you took delivery of a 2018?


I hope you get this sorted soon. I would hold the dealer's feet to the fire. I hope they're reputable and willing to stand up like men and correct their mistakes.
 

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Well, it sounds like just about all of your issues are dealer setup issues.
While Deere "assembles" the units, the dealer is to thoroughly check them over and finish assembling and setting everything up. This includes things like checking fluid levels and installing and properly setting up the mowing deck.

I had a few issues with my 2025R when I picked it up, but the dealer took care of all of them. Including a missing nut.
Im certainly not paying for anything, I already paid for it once, its not my fault it was missing. Its their job, and the warrantys purpose, to make sure everything is as its supposed to be.
They replaced my gauge cluster, a loader cylinder, that nut, and were working on a tire replacement too, but that was handled in another much better fashion. They also tracked down the correct loader mount uprights for mine as they are different than the 1025, but those were the ones on my tractor.
Now, Im not the most patient guy ever, and have a bit of a temper, so when I first discovered a couple of these, I was a bit more than mildly annoyed. The dealer never knew that though, and I think thats why things went so smoothly with all the issues. I cant say being at least somewhat friendly when a problem crops up helps out at every dealer, but it worked in my case.

I guess what Im getting at is that there are thousands of these sold, and there will be issues now and then. It really stinks to be the guy getting stuck with them, but make your dealer make it right.
If you paid for fluids, go talk to the service manager and have them make it right. Either reimburse you for it, or give you a credit, or service down the road. You shouldnt be spending a dime on that tractor except for fuel and accessories for at least a year. My dealer offered a quart or two of Low Vis Hy-gard when I swapped the cylinder myself (I didnt want to wait a few days for them to get it in and back to me), but I declined since I already had a case at the house.
They also should have offered to show you how to disconnect and reconnect the backhoe and loader. I personally told my dealer not to worry about it, as Id seen plenty of videos, and wanted to give it a go myself. Incidentally, it took me a bit the first time taking it off and putting it back on, but now its easy as pie. A proper dolly for the backhoe makes it even easier.

Dealers learn from this stuff too. In my case, they had no clue the loader uprights were different.
They also didnt look at tires before mine. Now they do. They had never made a warranty claim on a tire before. Now they know how to do that, even though we didnt follow through on that end.
I know the setup guy at my dealership pretty well, and its certainly not normal for this to happen, so I certainly didnt give them a bunch of grief about it, but they knew it wasnt a good thing that I had to deal with all this stuff.
Since then, its been smooth sailing.

The biggest issue I have with all of this type of stuff is that I have a hard time trying to force them to do things like replace a 10 cent nut, but I asked and they did. Sometimes I feel like its easier to just do it myself, and Ive got a long history of that being exactly the case, which is why most times I do just that, but the warranty is there for a reason.
Not only that, but Deere really does want you happy with your purchase. As a matter of fact, they recently sent me a survey to complete about my 2025R purchase, and how I like it now. They also contacted me about the service I received from the dealer on the cluster replacement, since thats the one that the dealer had to complete.

.......My 2018 has the new style filter. Are you sure you took delivery of a 2018? .......
How does one know if they have the new style? I havent seen it mentioned on here anywhere until now.
I assume my 2025 would have the new style...but now Im curious!
 

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I would of told them to come pick it up and fix everything you mentioned. Mine has been back several times for minor things, just keep on them till it is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They told me it was a 2018 model & the year code on the tag is a "J". I counted that up from what it says in the manual & came up with 2018 assuming they don't use an "I".

I expected a learning curve on pretty much everything based on where I was stepping up from, especially the backhoe. I'm sure it will just take practice mounting & unmounting. Not sure why I mentioned that since it wasn't really a major contributor to my frustration due to anything but my own lack of experience.

Also, based on my research I assumed there might be issues with the deck that I'd have to work through. That just kind of piled on everything else at that point.

Thanks.
 

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Well, it sounds like just about all of your issues are dealer setup issues.
While Deere "assembles" the units, the dealer is to thoroughly check them over and finish assembling and setting everything up. This includes things like checking fluid levels and installing and properly setting up the mowing deck.

I had a few issues with my 2025R when I picked it up, but the dealer took care of all of them. Including a missing nut.
Im certainly not paying for anything, I already paid for it once, its not my fault it was missing. Its their job, and the warrantys purpose, to make sure everything is as its supposed to be.
They replaced my gauge cluster, a loader cylinder, that nut, and were working on a tire replacement too, but that was handled in another much better fashion. They also tracked down the correct loader mount uprights for mine as they are different than the 1025, but those were the ones on my tractor.
Now, Im not the most patient guy ever, and have a bit of a temper, so when I first discovered a couple of these, I was a bit more than mildly annoyed. The dealer never knew that though, and I think thats why things went so smoothly with all the issues. I cant say being at least somewhat friendly when a problem crops up helps out at every dealer, but it worked in my case.

I guess what Im getting at is that there are thousands of these sold, and there will be issues now and then. It really stinks to be the guy getting stuck with them, but make your dealer make it right.
If you paid for fluids, go talk to the service manager and have them make it right. Either reimburse you for it, or give you a credit, or service down the road. You shouldnt be spending a dime on that tractor except for fuel and accessories for at least a year. My dealer offered a quart or two of Low Vis Hy-gard when I swapped the cylinder myself (I didnt want to wait a few days for them to get it in and back to me), but I declined since I already had a case at the house.
They also should have offered to show you how to disconnect and reconnect the backhoe and loader. I personally told my dealer not to worry about it, as Id seen plenty of videos, and wanted to give it a go myself. Incidentally, it took me a bit the first time taking it off and putting it back on, but now its easy as pie. A proper dolly for the backhoe makes it even easier.

Dealers learn from this stuff too. In my case, they had no clue the loader uprights were different.
They also didnt look at tires before mine. Now they do. They had never made a warranty claim on a tire before. Now they know how to do that, even though we didnt follow through on that end.
I know the setup guy at my dealership pretty well, and its certainly not normal for this to happen, so I certainly didnt give them a bunch of grief about it, but they knew it wasnt a good thing that I had to deal with all this stuff.
Since then, its been smooth sailing.

The biggest issue I have with all of this type of stuff is that I have a hard time trying to force them to do things like replace a 10 cent nut, but I asked and they did. Sometimes I feel like its easier to just do it myself, and Ive got a long history of that being exactly the case, which is why most times I do just that, but the warranty is there for a reason.
Not only that, but Deere really does want you happy with your purchase. As a matter of fact, they recently sent me a survey to complete about my 2025R purchase, and how I like it now. They also contacted me about the service I received from the dealer on the cluster replacement, since thats the one that the dealer had to complete.



How does one know if they have the new style? I havent seen it mentioned on here anywhere until now.
I assume my 2025 would have the new style...but now Im curious!
I guess what I really mean is location. Here's a video showing the previous gen location starting at about 40 seconds.





Here's the new location.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMLVU25849_19/graphics/LVAL38314.gif



Apparently on the old location, the mounting bracket was cracking. And on some breaking the intake. It's not a PIP, they need to search 1025R air cleaner update for the solution number 113718.








So they issued an update to correct it.






Here's a previous gen with the update.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
The older air cleaner setup runs parallel to the direction of travel & is supported with a bracket mounted to 3 studs on the top of the engine. From what I've read, there was an issue with the bracket breaking due to vibration so they beefed it up & made it a lot thicker. This in turn caused the vibrating to break the engine cover instead. The breakage can allow dirt & metal pieces from the break into the engine scrapping it.

The new set up has the air cleaner turned 90 degrees from the old setup & it's mounted along the radiator support. The 3 studs on top of the motor are no longer used.

I've seen guys say that the response from their dealer has been multiple things: they found report of it & updated it, they couldn't find anything but updated it anyway for customer relations, they couldn't find anything & wouldn't update it. Some guys out of warranty are updating it themselves as cheap insurance. It's sposed to be about $150 in parts & 10 minutes time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry about that. Justin beat me to it. I'm a slow typer.
 

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I tend to agree that you should have brought issues to the attention of the salesman it was purchased through. Beins as you paid for the fluids, keep this in mind. Make mention of this and use it to your benefit towards the first, maybe even 2nd service. I can see your frustrations. The machine should be ready for service without the need of you having to top things off. You signed the dotted line for a piece of equipment that "should" have been ready to do the job. Your time, gas, and frustrations are worthy of reimbursement. Note it!! Use it to your later advantage. Meanwhile, also address the machine was delivered. I think it's a good thing that you'd planned to do what you did, with the wheel weights, backhoe, and whatever else that led you to finding discrepancies.

Note everything that you find. Write it down. Contact the dealer right quick, and ream the salesmans back side for their incompetence. Use it as leverage!!
 

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I tend to agree that you should have brought issues to the attention of the salesman it was purchased through. Beins as you paid for the fluids, keep this in mind. Make mention of this and use it to your benefit towards the first, maybe even 2nd service. I can see your frustrations. The machine should be ready for service without the need of you having to top things off. You signed the dotted line for a piece of equipment that "should" have been ready to do the job. Your time, gas, and frustrations are worthy of reimbursement. Note it!! Use it to your later advantage. Meanwhile, also address the machine was delivered. I think it's a good thing that you'd planned to do what you did, with the wheel weights, backhoe, and whatever else that led you to finding discrepancies.

Note everything that you find. Write it down. Contact the dealer right quick, and ream the salesmans back side for their incompetence. Use it as leverage!!


Definitely try to leverage it for something in the future. When they sent me home with the LED light kit missing all the mounting hardware, they gave me all the fluids/filters that I'll need for a few years. I was assertive but polite when expressing my frustration with such a mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I previously discussed the air cleaner issue with my salesman. He said he searched for a PIP & didn't find anything. I then came across the info Justin shared about it not being a PIP & what case & solution number to look for. I haven't heard anything back on that.

The salesman wasn't in today when I went to the dealership. Otherwise, I'd have talked to him about some of this. I may shoot him an email expressing my concerns so he has it 1st thing Monday & then stop in for a chat.

Thanks to everyone so far for letting me know issues have popped up for them as well. It makes me feel a bit better knowing I'm not just totally whining.
 

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The rubber hose laying on top of the battery is likely the battery vent tube. On mine, it attaches to a vent nipple on the right side of the battery. There should be a cap on the left side battery nipple. The rubber hose should drop through an opening in the bottom of the battery tray/lower grill support, so the battery gases are vented under the tractor.

The rubber bungy strap seems to do the job. The well in the battery tray/lower grill support is pretty deep. So it givers the battery plenty of support. The bungy strap just keeps it from coming out if you roll it over. It'll probably last as long or longer than the steel battery hold down components, which corrode away over the years.
 

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First, sorry for your "NEW TRACTOR" problems, however...

I'm happy to see John Deere and "some dealers" continue the sad factory/dealer prep that I had to swallow as a new owner of a 1026TLB! At least things are constant and I don't feel "singled out" as much. Hey, it's just "one of those things" you hear so much about in life! JD sez, "$25K be damned..." :laugh:

When you get all the heartaches "tended to" and you finally can dig, load, mow more than one hour at a time you'll feel the hurt fade into the distance... Then you'll enjoy it! First big snow did it for me! :mocking: :laugh:
 

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I guess what I really mean is location. Here's a video showing the previous gen location starting at about 40 seconds.





Here's the new location.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMLVU25849_19/graphics/LVAL38314.gif



Apparently on the old location, the mounting bracket was cracking. And on some breaking the intake. It's not a PIP, they need to search 1025R air cleaner update for the solution number 113718.








So they issued an update to correct it.






Here's a previous gen with the update.

Well isnt that special.
My '18 2025R has the old style. Maybe it was a mid model change. I cant imagine a reason the 1025R would be changed to this and the 2025R wouldnt. Same engine.
 
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Removing the backhoe was a real experience, but it was my 1st try. I sure hope it gets smoother.

Thanks.
Here is a video that may help you. These backhoe controls are pretty touchy for a new operator. Pay particular attention to the placement of the bucket. The video could be improved in that he does not say, in the beginning, to use the bucket to take the pressure off the two pins. You simply roll the bucket down to take the pressure off the pins. Be very gentle with the controls. Engine at idle speed.

 

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Yeah once you figure out he sequence for detaching backhoe it's a two minute job. Backing back under it straight to re attach in one attempt is a different story.:laugh:
I have the old air cleaner bracket still on my 2014 and it still hasn't broke. Those things vibrate more at a certain RPM it seems. Pop hood and watch the air cleaner while running. Move the throttle to different RPM's to where it shakes hard the least. Avoid running it where it shakes the most. That's what i do.:bigthumb:
 

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I ordered the BXpanded backhoe dolly before I took delivery on my TLB. I store all my implements in the shop and have them all wheels or casters of some type so they can easily be moved around. That being said, I so infrequently install/remove the backhoe, I'll never be a "quick change artist". However, with the Bxpanded dolly, it never seems to be what I would term a difficult task. I'd highly recommend you can acquire it or something similar.

On that same note, I'd strongly recommend a dolly for the FEL. Some have have experienced trouble with the FEL "settling" with prolonged storage, making it very difficult to re-mount. Another member, Keane, designed and built a FEL dolly that addresses this issue and, again, makes moving a stored FEL around the shop a breeze. I also believe it makes them much easier to mount/dismount. My only issue seem to be forgetting to pull the retaining pin that secures the sliding 2x6 when I'm re-mounting. Here is the link to FEL dolly construction thread:

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/implements-attachments/33121-dolly-h120-front-end-loader.html
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Has anyone else come across an issue with a wheel being seemingly out of spec like mine appears to be for putting on wheel weights & clearing the valve stem? I'm curious since no one else has mentioned it. Do most of you guys not use them & just run ballast in the back so it wouldn't be noticed anyway? I've always had them on my smaller garden tractors for extra stability.
 

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Has anyone else come across an issue with a wheel being seemingly out of spec like mine appears to be for putting on wheel weights & clearing the valve stem? I'm curious since no one else has mentioned it. Do most of you guys not use them & just run ballast in the back so it wouldn't be noticed anyway? I've always had them on my smaller garden tractors for extra stability.
I've had valve stem blocking issues with the add-on/second (50#) weight where i couldn't use the short bolts into the starter weight. I ended up using longer bolts going from the wheel thru the starter into the second weight. I never had issues with the starter weight. I just went back and looked at my pics in this thread:

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/18579-1026r-wheel-weight-issue.html

and there seem to be no pockets in the starter weights, only the add-ons.

Maybe a couple of pics of your situation would help us figure this out.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Another curiosity, has anyone else that got a new FILB not gotten the 3 point hitch with it? When my salesman dropped off the tractor he said they just realized that it wasn't sent with the tractor. The dealer had the tractor for two weeks prior to delivery because they were waiting for the LED light kit option to come in & then it rained for a week. He said he'd drop it by when they got it. As of last Thursday when I last asked it still hadn't come in. It's not a huge deal as I don't really have anything to use it with right now, but that has added a little to the frustration.
 
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