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Discussion Starter #1
I was watching too many YouTube videos during the hot weather,
and I ran across a video of a LandPlane,, OK,, I am hooked, I gotta HAVE one!!

If I didn't have the material, I would run out and buy one,,,
but,, I happen to have all the material setting in a field.

Right now, I am predicting my out of pocket costs to be some gasoline for the welder.

I was gonna build one 6 feet long, and 8 feet wide,,, but,,,
if something happens to my current tractor, I would probably replace it with the next size smaller.

So, I have changed my plan to be a 5 feet long,, 7 feet wide one.

Today, I spent some time "tuning" my 9x16 saw,,,
then I "guessed" what material to use, and started selecting it from my stockpile.



The sides will be 1/2" X 12",, other than that,,,, Hmmmmmm,,, :dunno:

Any and all recommendations of what to include in the design would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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It's a pretty straightforward build, and on my list at some point in the future. Heavier is better, and it seems like most commercial planes set the cutting edges at a 15* angle with about 3/4" of cutting edge sticking down below the shoes on the side plates. They make cutting edges that have teeth made into them, one of those in front and a regular smooth cutting edge in the rear might be a good mix.
 

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Mine is 12' wide.
While a bit wide its a one pass to grade the road.
The cutting bars/? whatever run strait accross which is fine in dirt and loose rock.
Only downside is it will bounce when it hits a large (3") rock buried in the road.
Most I see have the cutters angled (one side forward of the other).
Better design perhaps but all your loose material will drift to one side.

If I were to build one vs the one I bought cheap. I'd go 10' wide x 6' in length. Maybe run a couple cutters angled both ways toward the tractor end and several strait across to the rear.

Mine has inverted 3x3 angle for cutters so you get 2 edges biting per stick if that makes sense.

looking for a decent pic that represents mine.

What is your primary use for yours? Dirt/field or road maintenance?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What is your primary use for yours? Dirt/field or road maintenance?
The primary use will be road maintenance,, for mostly gravel roads.
I will have angled cutters, I really want the unit to move material to the crown.
I can always use another tool to flatten a crown, if it is too great.

Then there hopes that it will smooth dirt better than a box blade.

I do have an unlimited (virtually!! ) supply of backhoe teeth,,
so I am planning a removable front attachment that will have the teeth across the front.

The backhoe teeth will be rather close, maybe 4.5" centers,,
WAY more cutting action than the typical ripper seen on commercial LP's.

The trick will be designing support for the teeth that will be strong enough,,,
Hmmmmm,,,:dunno:
 

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:munch: :munch:
 

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Why not split the difference and just built one that's 6'. I built one that's 10'wx9'l and it's not a load on the tractor at all. Only with I had built the sides a little bigger but it works great and friends are borrowing it all the time. Sorry for the bad pic it's the only one I took

Brett

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why not split the difference and just built one that's 6'.
I want to make sure the LP is heavy enough to be able to reclaim gravel that is at the side of the road.

My current tractor is right at 7 feet wide,, if the LP is only 6 feet wide,,
I would be mowing down fence posts, trying to get the gravel.

I am considering adding an offset hitch like my JD390 flail mower,,,
I haven't seen that done,,,, YET!!

As far as progress,, my pneumatic mister that cools/lubes the saw blade REFUSED to work.
After an hour or more of tinkering,, I decided to find the other one I have,,,
THAT search took another hour.

I got 4 parts cut,, then, I decided I had to have a steel rack in the shed.
I have had the rack for a while, but, it has just been laying in the field.
Moving, and stocking the rack took another hour of work,, in the 90 degree heat.

At least the humidity is low,, the 4 foot wall mounted fan was REALLY appreciated!!

What is that saying about "BUT, it is a dry heat!!" :lolol:
 

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Bonehead Club Lackey
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"BUT, it is a dry heat!!"
Not in Va. :mocking:
 

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Well I'll add a couple tidbits...

Mine being a Filbert Orchard plane....Does have angled wing things on the forward edges as to not snag on trees.

Remember mine is 12 ' wide so this may be a Non issue for you.

I will say it has probly saved me a few times grading my 1/2 mile driveway.

I'd consider building the sides higher than you think is nessessary so your spoils can go along for the ride till you hit a low spot. My sides are 4" which was fine in the groomed orchard but not so much on my trashed driveway.

I have 2 Complete Loser neighbors that won't lift a finger%^&* to do any maintenance as simple as trimming a F&^(G bush or brior & pulling out their wallet to pay for rock is never happening..well not since 93. FML.


sorta got off track...I'm diggin my plane out tomorrow and will bless this thread with Godzilla pics.
I'm sure there are bigger but not behind a 955.

Dan in Oregon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After 3 days in a row of 90+ degree heat,,, I had to take the day off.

I did find something that put my mind at ease,, I could pull the land plane with a pickup,,,

CATP Series Grader - Domor

Some tires, a drawbar,,, Hmmmmmmmm,,,,,

The 20 years I have had the 60 HP tractor have been great,,
but, I know I would never buy one this big again.

I am sure my 6,200 pound pickup could pull it,,, successfully!! :yahoo:
 

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Well....You may want to rethink that thought.

Yes you can....I did it with my other one..It was lighter.

If you can't make a loop at the end of your road..its gonna suk.

Just got done doing my road.

Heres what I encountered.

Crap will build up on the outer edges....black berry vines/leaves/general Frumunda type stuff.

On a 3 . you can lift back up & deposit this garbage outta the road. When it builds up it lifts the plane on that side.

The way mine is built I can Push backwards as well as Forward.


I'll add that I WAS WRONG on my design :flag_of_truce:

Mine is 3 3" chanel irons with a wear bar of some unobtainium type material welded on the front side.

I hadn't used it in 2 yrs maybe and me memory is Fubared. I save the good brain cells for my Beltfed Weapons and had

kinda fergot what the drag/plane was all about.

So to Recap 12' wide 3 strait units crossways. spaced @ about 18". Was originally 6' then the 3' add ons on each side.

It does a great job on hard packed dry road bed. I could probly add weight to it as my 955 has No problem lifting it on my I match. Its back there a ways.


Now on the plus side..after taking a tour on the RTV 900. of my handy work....apparently I took out a few grade stakes and a Water line marker recently installed by the local Waterboys. Theres some crazy Huge watertank that serves everyone But ME..cuz I live above IT..about halfway up MY 1/2 mile Driveway. There doing some routine maintenance which envolves cutting down some nice Big Fir trees and planting
a bunch of wetland friendly crap for the Portland FERN SNIFFERS. I had a nice smile on my grill when I saw the outcome of my handywerk.. OOops.. Kinda like Reba's song SH!* Happens... I didn't feel a thing and its hard to watch both sides when its that wide:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WOOT!! The saw was busy,,, today!!
It took me a half hour to set up the 10 foot piece of 1/2" X 12" in the saw.



Hit the go button,,,



The 20+ year old saw only took a little over 60 seconds to cut the bar,,,

 

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Back in the early/mid 1970's I worked for the township road commissioner for 2-3 summers. All the roads we maintained were oiled dirt roads. We had all the equipment needed to take care of the 30-32 miles of road in our township. Every spring a list of roads to tear up and rebuild and roads to patch on re-oil and a list of roads to ignore, maybe patch some of the bigger pot holes was made.
Rebuilding roads started with regrading ditches on both sides of the road, then scarifying the oiled roadbed. I pulled a 5 ft heavy-duty rototiller over the scarified road surface to chew it up into smaller pieces. Took all day to do a mile of road. After a little traffic over a day or two we dragged the road with an 8-9 ft wide drag with 5-6 angled blades over it's 20-24 ft length. That's what really made the crowned surface, smoothed washboards, made a good road! We'd drag with an Oliver 770 diesel tractor normally, Boss also pulled it with the C-65 Chevy dump truck but I preferred the tractor. After every rainy day or night we'd drag the tore up roads. At least two and sometimes 4 passes. After about a month to six weeks of dragging we'd oil the roads. Hour's truly rode the back of the oiler the first year, but chipped and sanded all the finished roads the second year.

Do a search on Road Drags and you'll see lots of pictures and videos of the types of drags like what the township used. Be real easy to duplicate in a slightly smaller size to drag one lane roads. A 5 or 6 ft width would be perfect.
 

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Share neighbors

Well I'll add a couple tidbits...

Mine being a Filbert Orchard plane....Does have angled wing things on the forward edges as to not snag on trees.

Remember mine is 12 ' wide so this may be a Non issue for you.

I will say it has probly saved me a few times grading my 1/2 mile driveway.

I'd consider building the sides higher than you think is nessessary so your spoils can go along for the ride till you hit a low spot. My sides are 4" which was fine in the groomed orchard but not so much on my trashed driveway.

I have 2 Complete Loser neighbors that won't lift a finger%^&* to do any maintenance as simple as trimming a F&^(G bush or brior & pulling out their wallet to pay for rock is never happening..well not since 93. FML.


sorta got off track...I'm diggin my plane out tomorrow and will bless this thread with Godzilla pics.
I'm sure there are bigger but not behind a 955.

Dan in Oregon
Only 2? I have about 10 neighbors who won't do a thing on the road except drive on it. I'll be glad to send you my extra's.

Treefarmer
 

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Only 2? I have about 10 neighbors who won't do a thing on the road except drive on it. I'll be glad to send you my extra's.

Treefarmer
Neighbors suck!

Neighbors, can't live with them and you can't shoot them. LOL
That's true with so many things. If you know what I'm saying

My one neighbor that does stuff starts 8 or more projects and never finished even 1. Everything is done without any permits or permission. He's like Mr. 1/2 A$$!
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Only 2? I have about 10 neighbors who won't do a thing on the road except drive on it. I'll be glad to send you my extra's.

Treefarmer
I have 4 neighbors that share my road, I'm glad that they don't do anything, If they did then I would be fixing all their screw ups.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I "cheated" a little today when cutting a 3/4" thick steel bar,,,
Rather than making the first cut first,,, I made the LAST cut first.
I needed eight parts 9" long, so my first cut was at (8x9=72) 72 inches.
Then I cut the part in half, then in half again, etc....



The result was cutting the bars in much less time.
The saw will cut four bars almost as fast as one,,,



I needed eight 1/2" bars also,, I repeated the process on those bars.



The chips are piling up!! :laugh:

(NOTE: if you try to copy this method of cutting, put a clamp on the "drop" parts,,
these saws do not like anything loose, you get LOTS of vibration, and loose blade teeth)
:flag_of_truce:
 
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