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I saw the mower deck wheels and axles kit you can buy but wanted castering wheels to make it easier to move around and put it right where you want it. I spent $20 on steel tubing, another $20 on 5" caster wheels and about $8 in bolts, nuts and washers. Tried it for the first time today, works great. Now just need to clean them up and paint them. I bought this tractor with 75 hrs on it a few weeks ago. Clearly the blades have never been off and sharpened. It's almost hard to tell which is the front vs back of the blades they are so bad. Having a stand like this will make it much easier to work on the mower deck.
 

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Nice job! :drinks: It looks very professional.
 

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I saw the mower deck wheels and axles kit you can buy but wanted castering wheels to make it easier to move around and put it right where you want it. I spent $20 on steel tubing, another $20 on 5" caster wheels and about $8 in bolts, nuts and washers. Tried it for the first time today, works great. Now just need to clean them up and paint them. I bought this tractor with 75 hrs on it a few weeks ago. Clearly the blades have never been off and sharpened. It's almost hard to tell which is the front vs back of the blades they are so bad. Having a stand like this will make it much easier to work on the mower deck.
Brilliant minds must think alike. View attachment 26470 View attachment 26471
 

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How wide?

This project has been on my "List" of projects to convert from my 455 to my 1025.

I know I can probably figure it our but how wide did you make the axles?

Thanks.
 

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I viewed some pictures of axle stands that would work for me, but no one was selling anything close to what I wanted so I used some 1" cold roll, drill press and stem casters to make a set . Worked do hood I made an extra set to sell on eBay. Maybe recover the cost of the project. Works great.
 

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Nice job. Did the 1" cold roll fit w/o needing to be turned down? Any issues with the "axle" moving side to side while the deck is being rolled around?
 
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The 1" cold roll fit very nice without turning. I drilled a 3/8 pilot hole that the gauge height spring loaded pin fits into. Keeps the shaft from shifting from side to side or turning in the tower. Caster would turn upside down without the pin hole. Cold roll is 18" long with caster stem holes drilled 1" from the end. This works for the auto connect 60D deck. The angle of the pilot hole for the gauge pin is important- other decks may have a different pin location or angle.
 

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The 1" cold roll fit very nice without turning. I drilled a 3/8 pilot hole that the gauge height spring loaded pin fits into. Keeps the shaft from shifting from side to side or turning in the tower. Caster would turn upside down without the pin hole. Cold roll is 18" long with caster stem holes drilled 1" from the end. This works for the auto connect 60D deck. The angle of the pilot hole for the gauge pin is important- other decks may have a different pin location or angle.
NICE! :thumbup1gif:
 
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What Gizmo said!! ^^^^ Thanks!
 

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I gotta say, those all look really sharp! Throw some paint on there and it would look like a factory accessory.:thumbup1gif:

The only problem that I see with them is that they could be top-heavy or tippy and hard to move over uneven concrete. Clearly this is only a minor issue because so many of you have a setup like this.

Here is what I use. Not very sophisticated, but it was cheap and can be used to move and store anything large in my garage.
image.jpeg
I wish I had a better picture... Also one wasn't upside down.
It's just a good clean pallet with four swivel casters bolted inside of it. All I have to do is drive the tractor up to the pallet then lower and detach the implement. Hook up is really easy because I can move the implement around to line it up with the tractor rather than the other way around. Several toys can also be put on the same pallet to save even more space. Shorter attachments like my back-blades and subsoiler can be rolled away under the workbench while larger toys like my mower and bark buster can be rolled into the corner. I have also used them to move furniture and my drill press.
 
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Evergreen;542058 I wish I had a better picture... Also one wasn't upside down. [/QUOTE said:
Like this...
image.jpeg
 

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I gotta say, those all look really sharp! Throw some paint on there and it would look like a factory accessory.


The only problem that I see with them is that they could be top-heavy or tippy and hard to move over uneven concrete. Clearly this is only a minor issue because so many of you have a setup like this.

Here is what I use. Not very sophisticated, but it was cheap and can be used to move and store anything large in my garage.
[iurl="http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=110906&d=1452181855"]
[/iurl]
I wish I had a better picture... Also one wasn't upside down.
It's just a good clean pallet with four swivel casters bolted inside of it. All I have to do is drive the tractor up to the pallet then lower and detach the implement. Hook up is really easy because I can move the implement around to line it up with the tractor rather than the other way around. Several toys can also be put on the same pallet to save even more space. Shorter attachments like my back-blades and subsoiler can be rolled away under the workbench while larger toys like my mower and bark buster can be rolled into the corner. I have also used them to move furniture and my drill press.
Your system is certainly easy and has lots of uses. It is really neat to see what people come up with to fill a need. I was looking for something that would stand the deck on end for blade service and lube as well as storage. I don't have a lot of spare room in my shop, So I wanted the footprint as small as possible. The only ones I could find to purchase were just wheels on straight axle shafts. They are really expensive ($150) plus shipping, and you can't turn them- you have skid the wheels sideways to make a turn. I have to credit the use of casters to other members on this forum, mine are a bit different, but the idea came from the forum. Mine is limited to even floor surface. Haven't had a problem with tipping while moving it, but I'm really slow and careful. I'm also going to use a short piece of chain to anchor it to the wall. You never know, grandkids could get it to tip if they pulled on it hard enough.
 

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All very nice deck storage set ups..

My homemade set is like the left hand wheels in post #5.... Kinda/sorta....

I used a length of 1 1/4 OD tube (2), a length (2) of 1/2" hot rolled bar stock for a wheel axle, and (4) old lawn mower wheels.. Several washers, bent nails, and a couple hair pin keepers..

Not fancy at all, but I only have about $6 in the whole set up...

Reduce, recycle, reuse......
Most of all.... Enjoy... :bigthumb:
 

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Hello.

I'm trying to build this axle for a 60" HC deck. Anyone know how to measure the angle difference between the lock pin on the mower deck axle with the angle/location of the caster wheels--they are not at 90 degrees and they are not in-line with each other.

Sorry that I couldn't explain this better.
 

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The 1" cold roll fit very nice without turning. I drilled a 3/8 pilot hole that the gauge height spring loaded pin fits into. Keeps the shaft from shifting from side to side or turning in the tower. Caster would turn upside down without the pin hole. Cold roll is 18" long with caster stem holes drilled 1" from the end. This works for the auto connect 60D deck. The angle of the pilot hole for the gauge pin is important- other decks may have a different pin location or angle.
I have a 60" HC deck. The gauge height spring pin would need to be drilled at a different angle than the holes for the caster stems but I can't seem to figure out how to determine the angle that the holes need to be offset from each other. Any ideas? thanks
 

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Great job to both the OP and Meltong! Good solution! I may have to try this, but I actually have a bunch of shop space so I tend to just drop the deck off to one side and let it sit there all winter until I need it in the spring.

Rob
 

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I have a 60" HC deck. The gauge height spring pin would need to be drilled at a different angle than the holes for the caster stems but I can't seem to figure out how to determine the angle that the holes need to be offset from each other. Any ideas? thanks
I'd build the dolly wheel setup first, then install the axles as normal. Once in place you should be able to mark the spot for the locking pins, either by removing the pins and using a marker through the hole or just by lining up with the pin visually. Hard to explain that latter method. What I'm trying to say is put the axle in with the deck stood up, note the angle of the pin, transfer to the axle where it is sticking out just above the pin, then take the axle out and move the mark down the pin to the point you need to drill the hole.

Or just use an angle finder like this:



Rob
 

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I'd build the dolly wheel setup first, then install the axles as normal. Once in place you should be able to mark the spot for the locking pins, either by removing the pins and using a marker through the hole or just by lining up with the pin visually. Hard to explain that latter method. What I'm trying to say is put the axle in with the deck stood up, note the angle of the pin, transfer to the axle where it is sticking out just above the pin, then take the axle out and move the mark down the pin to the point you need to drill the hole.

Or just use an angle finder like this:



Rob
How did you stand the deck up on it's side to get the correct positioning for the axle/pin relationship?

I have no clue how to use the angle finder in this situation. :unknown:
 
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