I switch to low range for the steeper hills even when mowing because I feel like it's easier on the hydro system although I don't know if it actually matters.
Do I hurt my 1025R by not using low range when mowing up steep hills?
Just got my 1025R a few weeks ago and so far use it mostly for mowing (I have the 60D). Some of the areas I mow are pretty steep and I'm somewhat disappointed that the tractor isn't able to climb those sections of the yard without me putting it in low range. I have plenty of traction and don't need to go in 4x4 mode, and it will go if I push the forward pedal really hard, but I feel like I'm going the bend the "spoons", if you know what I mean.
So to those that mow up steep hills, are you switching to low range and then back to high range once you get to flatter land again? It is a bit of a pain to having to constantly switch back and fourth...
So to those that mow up steep hills, are you switching to low range and then back to high range once you get to flatter land again? It is a bit of a pain to having to constantly switch back and fourth...
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
The better question is, why wouldn't you?So to those that mow up steep hills, are you switching to low range
Guessing you are mowing at 3200rpm, and still finding mowing up a steep hill is putting a strain tractor. IMO yes go to L range. I'm always going from L to H . For me , going in H and down the hill behind the house is to quick. Sometimes , and depends on height of grass I can mow in H and other times in L. Yes may be a PIA to switch between, H and L , but rather do that and piece of mind not doing damage to my tractor or transmission. 🤷♂️ 🤷♂️ Just my 2 cents.
Yes, I mow at 3200 rpm. Not that big a deal switching between H and L I just wasn't expecting having to do that. Only got 4 hours on it so far and don't want to be too hard on it. I used to mow this section with a GT235 and it never had any issues with the steep parts. You just don't push the forward pedal that hard going up the steep hills and it sort of "gears down" automatically, if you will. Of course it only has one range to begin with.
In and of itself, using high range doesn't hurt anything. That said, if you are creating enough pressure to activate the pressure relief valve, then you are heating up your hydro fluid. At 180 degrees, you'll start to damage components, but before you get to that temp, you'll probably notice that the tractor is slowing down for the same pedal amount due to foaming or aeration.
I would say that you'll "know" if the pressure relief valve is bleeding off fluid. It will make a different sound and you'll get the feeling that the transmission is "slipping". If you don't hear a sound or get that slipping feeling, I would keep on truckin' in high range.
According to the research I have done on hydraulics, miss-adjusted pressure relief valves are one of the main reasons for overheating hydraulic systems. This is more applicable in industrial applications that have higher working pressures and not mobile applications, but the principle still applies.
I would say that you'll "know" if the pressure relief valve is bleeding off fluid. It will make a different sound and you'll get the feeling that the transmission is "slipping". If you don't hear a sound or get that slipping feeling, I would keep on truckin' in high range.
According to the research I have done on hydraulics, miss-adjusted pressure relief valves are one of the main reasons for overheating hydraulic systems. This is more applicable in industrial applications that have higher working pressures and not mobile applications, but the principle still applies.
Oh one thing, tractor being NEW. and if you haven't done this.
First thing before starting your tractor , remember to check Hydro fluid and engine oil level.
First thing before starting your tractor , remember to check Hydro fluid and engine oil level.
I would switch of it pulls the engine rpms down. That is when I switch if I'm pulling a disk.
I use low when mowing on the steep incline of my septic sand mound, like others, on the decline H is usually too fast for comfort. Also when carrying a heavy load (loader, BH, full ballast, etc) L is my preference on level ground, and as you're learning, steep inclines.
Our yard is pretty hilly so I always run in low. Pretty much everything I do with my tractor I run in low especially if I'm working with the loader. Oh & of course I'm not ever in a big hurry either to get off my tractor. Probally the only time I run in high is if traveling down our town road.
I live on top of a pretty steep hill and I always keep the tractor in low. Doesn't really bother me a bit...in fact, like Mackford said above...I too am always operating in low for everything I do aside from driving from the lower field back to my driveway entrance. The only reason I go high there is because that stretch of road is pretty busy but I'm right back to low as I enter my driveway because the entrance to my driveway is also pretty steep.
I rarely ever get to use High gear in mine. I have tried. I can't even get up my biggest hill in high. I'm always working on hills and if the machine were faster, I would've rolled over many times by now. I know it's painfully slow sometimes but it's better to keep the green side up.
Also good to keep 4x4 on so you have braking power to all your wheels. Without it, you could have a runaway machine if you lose a rear tire off the ground.
Also good to keep 4x4 on so you have braking power to all your wheels. Without it, you could have a runaway machine if you lose a rear tire off the ground.
THANK YOU! Didn't occur to me to re-check the Hydro fluid after adding my loader (it came on a pallet and I installed it myself). Filling the lines and cylinders apparently drained out enough Hydro fluid to where the dipstick was completely dry when I checked it this morning. Engine oil level is fine and about 1/2" below the full mark.Oh one thing, tractor being NEW. and if you haven't done this.
First thing before starting your tractor , remember to check Hydro fluid and engine oil level.
I have a 5 gallon bucket of regular Hy-Gard that I use on my big tractor. The dipstick on my 1025R says to use Low Viscosity Hy-Gard, so I guess I'll swing by the dealer today to pick some up. Might as well get a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff so that I'm ready for the 50 hour service.
THANK YOU! Didn't occur to me to re-check the Hydro fluid after adding my loader (it came on a pallet and I installed it myself). Filling the lines and cylinders apparently drained out enough Hydro fluid to where the dipstick was completely dry when I checked it this morning. Engine oil level is fine and about 1/2" below the full mark.
I have a 5 gallon bucket of regular Hy-Gard that I use on my big tractor. The dipstick on my 1025R says to use Low Viscosity Hy-Gard, so I guess I'll swing by the dealer today to pick some up. Might as well get a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff so that I'm ready for the 50 hour service.
You can do it at 50 if you like but the manual says you don't have to until 200 hours (or annually)so that I'm ready for the 50 hour service
Engine oil being 1/2-inch below the full mark sounds like it could stand to have a bit added. Keep in mind these little engines hold less than a gallon of oil so keeping it topped off is a good idea.THANK YOU! Didn't occur to me to re-check the Hydro fluid after adding my loader (it came on a pallet and I installed it myself). Filling the lines and cylinders apparently drained out enough Hydro fluid to where the dipstick was completely dry when I checked it this morning. Engine oil level is fine and about 1/2" below the full mark.
I have a 5 gallon bucket of regular Hy-Gard that I use on my big tractor. The dipstick on my 1025R says to use Low Viscosity Hy-Gard, so I guess I'll swing by the dealer today to pick some up. Might as well get a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff so that I'm ready for the 50 hour service.
What he said. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Our yard is pretty hilly so I always run in low. Pretty much everything I do with my tractor I run in low especially if I'm working with the loader. Oh & of course I'm not ever in a big hurry either to get off my tractor. Probally the only time I run in high is if traveling down our town road.
I never mow using high gear and always in 4 wheel drive. High gear for me is for going from one place to another without doing any work. But my place is nothing but hills. I might switch between 4X4 and 2 WD as long as I'll remember to switch back to 4X4 before going back down/up hill. If your hill is steep enough the tractor will run away with you going down hill in 2 WD. Don't ask...
Ah. See the problem here is just managing your expectations. Your GT235 is not geared lower for power rather than speed. The high gear on the 1025R is geared for speed, not torque. And that will be amplified even more with the mower deck running which is using a bunch of engine power that is now not available for drive. So you're running at maximum pressure using maximum power to accomplish not very much outcome. You aren't hurting it, but you aren't helping anything either. Low gear is geared for torque, not speed. The same amount of engine power is converted to a lot more torque. It requires less hydraulic pressure and less engine power for the same outcome. This is what you should be doing in these circumstances rather than torturing it in high gear. Your GT235 was a single gear somewhere in between.Yes, I mow at 3200 rpm. Not that big a deal switching between H and L I just wasn't expecting having to do that. Only got 4 hours on it so far and don't want to be too hard on it. I used to mow this section with a GT235 and it never had any issues with the steep parts. You just don't push the forward pedal that hard going up the steep hills and it sort of "gears down" automatically, if you will. Of course it only has one range to begin with.
As others have said, you would have to be doing this for an extended amount of time to heat the fluid up hot enough. So you could eventually damage it but it doesn't sound like that's the circumstance you're in.
My 4010, 1025R and 2025R absolutely will not climb our hill in H. Never ever go down a hill out of 4wd. You will not have 4 wheels brakes then, and very likely the rear wheels will just skid. If they skid sideways, you're in a potential turnover situation. Always use 4wd unless on pavement.
Appreciate all the great feedback. Yep, the GT235 is geared somewhere in between L and H on the 1025R. If I push the forward pedal all the way, it goes way too fast for mowing, at least on my bumpy yard. The same is true for the 1025R in H (way too fast). Floored in L is probably about as fast as I would want to go anyway, as opposed to 1/4 - 1/3 pedal in H range.
Also agree about using 4x4 when going downhill. Of course that was not an option on my GT235, and there have been times when the rears start sliding. When that happens, the thing to do is to push the forward pedal to get the rpm of the rears to get closer to match ground speed to regain control. Fortunately I have a pretty long "runway" at the bottom of this one steep hill in particular, so I can regain control pretty easy once I get down there.
One really nice feature of my 5085M tractor is that 4x4 engages automatically when you hit the brakes, so even in 2 wheel drive, you can always slow down when going down a steep hill. I typically put it in 4x4 before descending such hills anyway, especially if I'm carrying a big load in my bucket or grabble. Of course the would never be an option on the 1025R since the 4x4 is engaged manually with a mechanical level and not electronically like on the 5085M.
As for when to do the initial change of the Hy-Gard, the sticky in this forum seems to suggest that it is a very good idea to do it at 50 hours and not wait until the 200 hour mark?
Also agree about using 4x4 when going downhill. Of course that was not an option on my GT235, and there have been times when the rears start sliding. When that happens, the thing to do is to push the forward pedal to get the rpm of the rears to get closer to match ground speed to regain control. Fortunately I have a pretty long "runway" at the bottom of this one steep hill in particular, so I can regain control pretty easy once I get down there.
One really nice feature of my 5085M tractor is that 4x4 engages automatically when you hit the brakes, so even in 2 wheel drive, you can always slow down when going down a steep hill. I typically put it in 4x4 before descending such hills anyway, especially if I'm carrying a big load in my bucket or grabble. Of course the would never be an option on the 1025R since the 4x4 is engaged manually with a mechanical level and not electronically like on the 5085M.
As for when to do the initial change of the Hy-Gard, the sticky in this forum seems to suggest that it is a very good idea to do it at 50 hours and not wait until the 200 hour mark?
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Green Tractor Talk
A forum community dedicated to John Deere tractor owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about towing, PTO’s, reviews, attachments, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
Join now to ask and comment!
