Do I hurt my 1025R by not using low range when mowing up steep hills?

Yes, I mow at 3200 rpm. Not that big a deal switching between H and L I just wasn't expecting having to do that. Only got 4 hours on it so far and don't want to be too hard on it. I used to mow this section with a GT235 and it never had any issues with the steep parts. You just don't push the forward pedal that hard going up the steep hills and it sort of "gears down" automatically, if you will. Of course it only has one range to begin with.

etcallhome said:

Oh one thing, tractor being NEW. and if you haven't done this.

First thing before starting your tractor , remember to check Hydro fluid and engine oil level.

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THANK YOU! Didn't occur to me to re-check the Hydro fluid after adding my loader (it came on a pallet and I installed it myself). Filling the lines and cylinders apparently drained out enough Hydro fluid to where the dipstick was completely dry when I checked it this morning. Engine oil level is fine and about 1/2" below the full mark.

I have a 5 gallon bucket of regular Hy-Gard that I use on my big tractor. The dipstick on my 1025R says to use Low Viscosity Hy-Gard, so I guess I'll swing by the dealer today to pick some up. Might as well get a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff so that I'm ready for the 50 hour service.

Appreciate all the great feedback. Yep, the GT235 is geared somewhere in between L and H on the 1025R. If I push the forward pedal all the way, it goes way too fast for mowing, at least on my bumpy yard. The same is true for the 1025R in H (way too fast). Floored in L is probably about as fast as I would want to go anyway, as opposed to 1/4 - 1/3 pedal in H range.

Also agree about using 4x4 when going downhill. Of course that was not an option on my GT235, and there have been times when the rears start sliding. When that happens, the thing to do is to push the forward pedal to get the rpm of the rears to get closer to match ground speed to regain control. Fortunately I have a pretty long "runway" at the bottom of this one steep hill in particular, so I can regain control pretty easy once I get down there.

One really nice feature of my 5085M tractor is that 4x4 engages automatically when you hit the brakes, so even in 2 wheel drive, you can always slow down when going down a steep hill. I typically put it in 4x4 before descending such hills anyway, especially if I'm carrying a big load in my bucket or grabble. Of course the would never be an option on the 1025R since the 4x4 is engaged manually with a mechanical level and not electronically like on the 5085M.

As for when to do the initial change of the Hy-Gard, the sticky in this forum seems to suggest that it is a very good idea to do it at 50 hours and not wait until the 200 hour mark?

Stopped by the dealer and picked up a 5 gallon bucket of low vis Hy-Gard. It took about 30 pumps to get it up to the full mark on the dip stick:



Also dropped in a bottle of this stuff: Thanks for the tip!



Topped off motor oil as well. I already had a 5 gallon bucket of that stuff for the big tractor: Here's a pic of my "oil shelf"



I took you guys advice and did a little bit of mowing using only Low range. Worked out great. I did some of my steepest slopes and tractor felt very stable both going up and down, and turning back both at the bottom and at the top. Pictures don't really show the amount of slope, but you can see that the area is not flat.





Thanks for the tip of checking the level in the front axle, I'll do that as soon as I get a chance..

Once the 260B shows up, I got quite a number of rocks to pull out and I found a couple of stumps with the 60D that I need to hit with the stump grinder again to get them down to level.

Cmpeter1 said:

Must be tough to get up every morning and look at that view.

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After a night of single malt, you bet.

But the view is what sold me. Blue Ridge Mountains.