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Hello all, looks like I will be taking delivery of a 3039R cab tractor very soon and am changing up my current plowing situation (Polaris Sportsman with blade). I am looking at an AF11E blade for the loader and am wondering if I need the 3rd set of hydraulic lines ran to the front for the curl function? I am never plowed with a loader mounted blade, but have lurked on here quite a bit reading both the positives and negatives of them. I just don't know how useful or necessary the curl function would be, so I'm curious what other people's experiences/opinions are. If I can save the $447 for the add-on hydraulic line kit, I'd like too! Thanks for your input.
 

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If your blade has hydraulic angling on it, you're going to want the 3rd set of hoses up front. If you think about the geometry of the blade, consider the angling pivot point. If you have the blade tilted upwards and then angle the blade to the right, the right side end of the blade is going to be closer to the pavement than the left end. If you curl the blade forwards and tilt to the right, then the left end of the blade will be closer to the pavement.

What I'm getting at is that if you don't want the third set of hoses, then you'll need to have the blade perfectly "curled" (ie - front/back) so that the blade remains parallel as you angle it left and right.

As I'm typing this, I'm wondering how you'd plumb the curl function of the FEL into the blade angling system? :unknown:

I have an FEL mounted snow blade with hydraulic angling. I use my Artillian diverter to control the angle. Works like a champ. :good2:
 

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You can run the plow without having a curl function but life is easier if you have it.

The 1st year I had my plow mounted on the loader I used the curl lines to control the angle function. That works but every now and then you you find that you need to adjust the plow's attack angle. The curl cylinders need to be adjusted so you have to stop, hook the lines back on to the curl cylinders, adjust the curl and then switch everything back again. You may only need to do that once or twice a storm and it sounds pretty simple but it's a lot harder to actually do it when everything is covered in snow and slush, it's 20 degrees outside, the lines are pressurized, etc... One switch over can turn into a 15-20 minute exercise in frustration.

My suggestion would be to spend the $$. In the long run it is well worth it.
 

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I am in the add it now camp as well. You might as well make life easier now and it is a small jump in price. Not sure if you are paying cash or doing a finance but if a finance you won't notice a couple of cents to the monthly payment.

Also it opens the door to other attachments up front where it would be needed anyhow. For instance a grapple.
 

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Add it now. It is less costly than it is after you get the tractor. Eventually you will find endless uses for it.
 

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+ Whatever...Add it now.
 

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+ Whatever...Add it now.
Add it now. It is less costly than it is after you get the tractor. Eventually you will find endless uses for it.
I am in the add it now camp as well. You might as well make life easier now and it is a small jump in price. Not sure if you are paying cash or doing a finance but if a finance you won't notice a couple of cents to the monthly payment.

Also it opens the door to other attachments up front where it would be needed anyhow. For instance a grapple.
If your blade has hydraulic angling on it, you're going to want the 3rd set of hoses up front. If you think about the geometry of the blade, consider the angling pivot point. If you have the blade tilted upwards and then angle the blade to the right, the right side end of the blade is going to be closer to the pavement than the left end. If you curl the blade forwards and tilt to the right, then the left end of the blade will be closer to the pavement.

What I'm getting at is that if you don't want the third set of hoses, then you'll need to have the blade perfectly "curled" (ie - front/back) so that the blade remains parallel as you angle it left and right.

As I'm typing this, I'm wondering how you'd plumb the curl function of the FEL into the blade angling system? :unknown:

I have an FEL mounted snow blade with hydraulic angling. I use my Artillian diverter to control the angle. Works like a champ. :good2:
In my opinion....do it right and do it now when your tractor is new. $450 isn’t much in the grand scheme of things.

If you ever want to run a grapple at a later date you will already be setup.
Just in case you missed all of this good advice. :hi:
It's probably best to add it now :good2:
 

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While you're budgeting the additional money for the 3rd function or diverter, don't forget to budget a little for some goodies from www.BoltOnHooks.com. You're going to buy stuff anyway, so you might as well just plan for it now so you don't have to go back to the finance committee.
:gizmo:

I'd suggest some bucket hooks and shackle mounts, a hydraulic pressure gauge, a few assorted sizes of slings, a hydraulic decompression tool, the FEL bolt on receiver and a chain shortener. And don't forget to include a "Get Hooked" t-shirt for your wife. :good2:


I love spending other peoples' money!! :laugh:
 

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In my opinion....do it right and do it now when your tractor is new. $450 isn’t much in the grand scheme of things.

If you ever want to run a grapple at a later date you will already be setup.
X2. Get it put on.

And thinking now, if you have no hydro pressure on the curl cylinders, pushing a load of snow may push rods back into hydraulic cylinder. Then you would need to hook lines back up to reset blade at what curl you want it at? Maybe? :unknown:

Geez, I remember an old plow truck I used that once I hit a pile with the plow kicked to right, it would go back to strait even if I didn't want it to.
 

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Spend the money and do it right the first time.
I love my Artillian diverter/loader/54" angle plow set up. Angling is a must for high speed take no prisoners plowing.:lol:
 

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Another vote for add it now.. however, if you have a gravel driveway, you're going to hate a loader mounted blade. I had a loader mounted blade (AF11 actually) and sold it. I went back to the Sportsman with blade and winch... if you have a paved driveway, you'll like it...

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Hello all, looks like I will be taking delivery of a 3039R cab tractor very soon and am changing up my current plowing situation (Polaris Sportsman with blade). I am looking at an AF11E blade for the loader and am wondering if I need the 3rd set of hydraulic lines ran to the front for the curl function? I am never plowed with a loader mounted blade, but have lurked on here quite a bit reading both the positives and negatives of them. I just don't know how useful or necessary the curl function would be, so I'm curious what other people's experiences/opinions are. If I can save the $447 for the add-on hydraulic line kit, I'd like too! Thanks for your input.
No, you DO NOT need a third hydraulic line for curling or angling your blade. Yes, you can use the curl/dump function to angle the blade. There is your answer in a nutshell.

However, here's where you may run into a problem. When using the curl/dump function to angle the blade, your curl/dump cylinders may leak down. What I do to solve that problem is to use ratchet straps to hold the cylinders in the retracted position. No, my solution is not ideal, but it does work quite well. My blade stays in full contact with the surface to be plowed no matter how much or how little I have it angled.

I have read every reply to your post and most replies are only opinions, so I will give you mine. For the $447 you've been quoted, there is no question in my mind that I wouldn't bring the tractor home until they installed the third function for you. It's a small price to pay for a major convenience.

Did I say a major convenience? Spent it now! :gizmo:
 

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OK so here’s an opinion from an experienced bulldozer operator. The curl function on a front blade gives you the “carry mode” option. If you have a long push, you put it into carry mode when the blade is full of material, letting you transfer the material with more control, and ease on the machine. Having a blade more vertical gives it more bite, and will scrape better, but if it’s leaned back, even a little, it can transfer more material farther with less wear and tear on the machine.
 

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Not sure where you are located, but a company in Wisconsin makes a great alternative to the John Deere blade, CT Attachments. I bought one and love it, way heavier built than the John Deere version in my opinion.


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