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When deciding to purchase a 1025R, the hardest decision for me was the tire choice. I have had a 445 for the last 16 years with turf tires and they always worked great and with chains they worked great with the snowblower. I hate installing chains though. I figured I'd get the turf tires on the 1025R, but I went to 2 different dealers and when I mentioned turf tires, they looked at me like I had lost my mind. The one dealer said "Only if you want to ruin the value of it". I told them even though I would buy it with the loader/snow blower and deck, it would spend 90% of it's time mowing in the summer and then blowing snow in the winter and then using the loader as needed for the stone driveways, mulch and other stuff. I was told by both dealers that I will really want the cleated tires when using the loader and with the snow blower and I wouldn't have to wrestle with chains anymore. They said that as long as I keep it in 2 wheel drive when I am mowing, the cleated tires will be fine. Both dealers said that they have not had anyone complain about the cleated tires tearing up their yards. So the tractor that is to be deliverd this week is going to have the cleated tires on it. I hope I don't regret it. Have you guys done OK with the cleated tired and mowing?
 

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My R4s do really pretty well when mowing. My dealer has both sets of tires on their 1 Series selections. If the ground is bare you will see the R4's bar tracks, but otherwise I don't notice anything. If you happen to spin them you will get a nice track mark, but other than the pattern I don't imagine it'll be any better. My 318 left track marks when it spun... The 1 Series has MFWD to help get you out of trouble.

-636

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The R4's have been fine for mowing. They do leave marks when the ground is soft but, so do turf tires.
 

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I've been very happy with R4's for my mowing and other duties for multiple tractors, but I don't have any snow clearing issues here. If I did, I might have to have a second set of turf tires or a good set of chains that won't settle in the gaps of the R4 treads.
 

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Never owned a tractor with turfs, but my FIL has a MF1655 with turfs. After mowing with it the first time he wished he had ordered it with Ags or R4 tires. Has worn chains on it till the tires wore out about 10 yrs ago it now has Ag tires. no chains to mow and yard isn't torn up less now with Ag tires than when we had chains.
I agree with others all mine have had R4 and then do a fine job for mowing , if any hills where you live you still may need to have chains on during the winter mos.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys! That makes me feel better. I know you can't go by looks, but the R4's make the whole tractor look meaner. It gives it that "Bring it on" look! From what you guys say, I should be fine!
 

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I had the same concerns, but after 2 years of blowing snow, and mowing with the R4's they work just fine, and leave fewer marks in the yard than the old zero turn did.
 

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Since I had such good traction abilities with my GX335 I wanted turfs on my 1026TLB. But, since it was the last one on the lot and the dealer knew he "had a live one":laugh: he wouldn't budge on swapping off the R4's. No matter now I find.

Lawn is still fine after what mowing I did last season (used the GX for most of the season), in fact there is less damage on my short uphill areas as the turfs don't spin when I hit the FWD for that 25' run up or down. No sliding when side hill mowing either. Win-win situation there...

Chains: I have not found any problems with traction plowing with chains on the R4's. IF the crosschains are going down into the grooves they are not doing it at every lug. I'm getting plenty of traction from the chains even stacking snow 6' high. With 4WD on any vehicle if you know when to engage it and when to disengage it traction is usually not a problem. But, as with any vehicle, you WILL reach the limit of the machine's traction at some point. Best hope that it's not past that "point of no return" we hear so much about!:laugh:
 

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I struggled with making the decision on which tires when getting my 1026R. I asked on this forum and was told to get the tires that would be most appropriate for what you use the tractor for the majority of the time. For me that was mowing, so I got turf tires. I blow snow on 250' of inclined blacktop using rear chains and 95% of the time 2 wheel drive. No problems. When I use my FEL the front tires should be inflated a little more. I use my tiller in my garden with turfs and it gets the job done in 4 wheel drive although I think the R4's would work better there. Maybe the turf's give a smoother ride when mowing but the R4's
do make for a tougher looking tractor!!! Good luck with your new tractor and have fun!!!
 

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I think you'll find the bigger problem is using the loader across the same stretch of grass repeatedly starts to make a road. Wouldn't matter which tires you had on. If you can vary your path, it helps. I think any vehicle does this, unless you have lush Hawaiian type grass.

I have the R4's and other than forgetting and leaving it in 4x4 or having the brake's stick, its been OK on the lawn.
 

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I find the R4 tires a good compromise for my 4 season weather. Definitely not very good in snow without chains though.

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Discussion Starter #13
I find the R4 tires a good compromise for my 4 season weather. Definitely not very good in snow without chains though.

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Not being good in the snow kinda surprises me because we have a old 440 Bobcat skid loader that only weighs about 1900lbs and it still has it's original R4 style tires and my dad put a 8' blade on the front of it and it pushs snow like crazy and that's even on snowy blacktop driveway. My driveway is gravel, so I figured it would dig in pretty good. My 1025R will have a front blower on it, so it won't be doing a lot of actual pushing. The blower will be doing the work.
 

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Ya, mine with the R4s pushes snow like a mule. I live on gravel too, maybe that's the difference..?? Who knows.

Jim
 

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I like my R4s in the snow so far. I run a 54" Quick hitch Blade and the R4s push pretty well. My hill gets a little tricky, but so far hasn't stopped me yet.

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I am running chains front & rear this winter. With out them my 1026 spins a lot. My drive way is very icy this year. I have needed to push the blower though hard packed snow drifts that were just over the drift cutters.

Chains wouldn't be needed for 6" of fluffy snow on a level paved driveway.
 

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I put over 20 hours on my 1026R, with R4s, plowing snow this winter. I have very few flat areas.
I had very few traction issues. If I did have a problem, I just came at it from a different direction.

The only place R4s caused problems for me when mowing, was mowing around trees that are on sloped areas. But that was only when the ground was wet or really dry.
 

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Not being good in the snow kinda surprises me because we have a old 440 Bobcat skid loader that only weighs about 1900lbs and it still has it's original R4 style tires and my dad put a 8' blade on the front of it and it pushs snow like crazy and that's even on snowy blacktop driveway. My driveway is gravel, so I figured it would dig in pretty good. My 1025R will have a front blower on it, so it won't be doing a lot of actual pushing. The blower will be doing the work.
Skidsteers are fully locked 4wd, they get a lot more traction than open dif.


Mr. Moose
 
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turfs, R4, HDAP or bar tractor tread

Got my 1026R with R4's. Don't like them but I'm in east Tn. with all hills. Even my drive. Did some snow moving with my FEL for the first time this year. Never even had to do it with the 2210 I traded in. The R4's don't have enough tread for snow on hills. Slip and slide and spin. Don't know if the HDAP tires are better, wish I knew. But my next set of tires will be bar tires (tractor tread). At least I'll have traction no matter what. Will say this, R4's work better then turf's when tilling and they don't dig up my yard while mowing till I spin them turning up a hill from a tight spot in 4 wheel drive with the diff on. I do like the 1026R better then the 2210. :usa
 

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What psi do you run in your r4s? I'm at 6, filled with RimGuard, and have ~650 lbs of ballast box. I push my snow up hills, around corners, and could probably shove it thru a wall. I don't hardly slip at all in 2wd, when I do I just shove the 4wd lever forward.

My 3005 is prob a bit heavier though, 3005 4wd: 2105 lbs, 300 loader: 793 lbs, Ballast Box: 650 lbs, RimGuard (62gal): 682 lbs, Me: 180 lbs, 82" front blade: 100 more lbs than bucket = 4510.

Jim
 
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