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Discussion Starter #1
Do any of you guys change the grease in your mower deck gear boxes? I've had my 62C deck for 6 years now. Just wondering. I don't think that there is a service interval listed in the manual. Looks like it would be a pain to drain.
 

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I assume you mean gear oil and not grease?

I change mine, I found it very easy to just release the belt, unbolt it and do it on the workbench.
 

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I'll be doing mine every fall.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I assume you mean gear oil and not grease?
Yes. Where I come from, perhaps incorrectly, we sometimes call gear oil grease:crazy:. What type of lube do you use?
 

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I just used regular 90w gear oil.


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My 60" mid-mount operator manual says to change the gearbox OIL every 500 hours with GL5. It wiill take 4.6 ounces. I doubt that many people ever change the gearoil. I just bought a 455 with a 60" deck and that is the first that I will do.

GotDeeres
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My 60" mid-mount operator manual says to change the gearbox OIL every 500 hours with GL5. It wiill take 4.6 ounces. I doubt that many people ever change the gearoil. I just bought a 455 with a 60" deck and that is the first that I will do.

GotDeeres
I did find the service interval for the 62C OIL in the online manual; It's every 500 hours. I'm appalled with myself for missing that for the last 6 years:nunu:. I've got 850 hours on the tractor, not all of it mowing, so it's probably not a gross act of incompetence:cry: But I better get at it. If it wasn't for this forum, I wouldn't have started thinking about it again.:good2:
 

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An easy way to change it is to use a suction gun and pull it out through the top hole of gearbox. A suction gun looks just like a grease gun without the pump handle. You simply insert it in the hole and pull on the handle. Keep a bucket handy and push on the handle releasing old oil. I use this on my snowblowers and large HX10 rotary cutter gearboxes. It can be purchased at automotive stores. Got mine at Carquest.
 

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An easy way to change it is to use a suction gun and pull it out through the top hole of gearbox. A suction gun looks just like a grease gun without the pump handle. You simply insert it in the hole and pull on the handle. Keep a bucket handy and push on the handle releasing old oil. I use this on my snowblowers and large HX10 rotary cutter gearboxes. It can be purchased at automotive stores. Got mine at Carquest.
Also Handy if you have to change rear end fluid on your truck.. Excellent tip!

-636
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I changed the oil. It was pretty black. I didn't use the suction tool. It's only 6 bolts to remove the whole gearbox. I drained it, filled it, sloshed it around and drained it again to flush it out. I think I will change the rubber mounts next time around.
 

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Well, I changed the oil. It was pretty black. I didn't use the suction tool. It's only 6 bolts to remove the whole gearbox. I drained it, filled it, sloshed it around and drained it again to flush it out. I think I will change the rubber mounts next time around.
Check the prices on those rubber mounts (isolator bushings)! I'm thinking they were something like $20 EACH for the 4 of them. If you can come up with the part number, you can get them on line (they are generic to a lot of equipment) for about 1/3 of that price.
 

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I use an air pressure operated vacuum fluid extractor for more and more of my vehicle and equipment maintenance. Purchased it about five years ago and find that it makes quick work of just about any fluid changing task. I've used it for engines, transmissions, differentials, transfer cases, power steering, brake fluid, snowmobile chain cases and much more. Also use it for practically all of my tractor and motorcycle maintenance including draining and refilling my mower deck gearbox.

The unit I have was manufactured by MityVac, #7300 and holds about 9+ quarts. It came with three long flexible hoses of different diameters that can be inserted into dipstick tubes or inspection ports. Just evacuate and refill. Fast and no mess at all. Here's the link: http://www.mityvac.com/user_manuals/07300.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Check the prices on those rubber mounts (isolator bushings)! I'm thinking they were something like $20 EACH for the 4 of them. If you can come up with the part number, you can get them on line (they are generic to a lot of equipment) for about 1/3 of that price.
Where were you back in June when I posted originally:nunu: Those bushing were very pricey... I about fell over. Somewhere around 15 bucks each:cray: Do you have a source for those?
 

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Where were you back in June when I posted originally:nunu: Those bushing were very pricey... I about fell over. Somewhere around 15 bucks each:cray: Do you have a source for those?
Where were you in July? :laugh: That is when I replaced mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I remember looking at the counter guy and saying "for all 4?" and seeing him shake his head slowly back and forth.:dunno:

I don't believe I saved the paper work to get the part number off of it. I know when I got home the first thing I did was Google the part number and was surprised to find that exact part listed in several several places.
 

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It just isn't JD. I had a Wheel Horse C-141 Automatic and I rebuilt the K321 in it. I bought 4 new isolators from the Toro dealer it ran close to $100. And this was a few years ago.

One thing to consider here is that the original isolators were chosen to meet the requirements of the conditions the engine will see. Isolating noise and vibration is a science in itself. Provided for most of our conditions we can live with a few parameters outside of the norm, but isolators may be sized the same, look the same, but are designed for different dampening and isolation requirements. Something to think about when you buy an aftermarket isolator. Why spend a lot on your tractor and then compromise it by buying the wrong isolator? I would rather spend a few more dollars and get the right part than have problems in the future. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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I've got a 72" deck under my 855 utility tractor. I've only changed the gear box oil one time in 25 years
of seasonal mowing. It looked clean as the day it went in. It's a sealed system. Unless something has caused the oil to be contaminated or something broke, I don't think it's a big issue. I guess it all depends on your comfort level. Some people just want to take a look at that oil & make sure they don't see any off color or metal dust, etc. I don't drain mine after the first time, but I do pay attention to how my equipment sounds, operates, & performs under load.
:read
 
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