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Discussion Starter #1
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I opted for the independent lift on my new 1025R, and the plumbing hangs down below the belly about 2-3 inches more than it probably should.

With the mower deck off, it forms a loop of hard tubing and hydraulic hose that looks to me to be a disaster in the making. Just a huge possibility of something snagging it when operating the tractor in any kind of brushy environment.

Looking for pictures of the plumbing of other member's tractors that have this option, with the mower deck removed.

Here is a picture of what mine looks like:

Independent Lift Plumbing.jpg

The way mine is, ...it seems totally unacceptable to me.

I realize that the auto-connect linkage will drop down some, but I think if the hard line is bent toward that pivot point with a tubing bender, that would be a non-issue.

Please post up some pics of yours, if you have this option on your 1 series.
 

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I opted for the independent lift on my new 1025R, and the plumbing hangs down below the belly about 2-3 inches more than it probably should.

The way mine is, ...it seems totally unacceptable to me.
I don't have a 1-series but that hose routing would be unacceptable in anyone's book for any add-on!
 

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I know that hose/line isn't suppose to be like that. I believe it's suppose to be tucked under the floorboard, and I think the floorboard had to be taken off to install it and the hydraulic lift cylinder.

Did the dealer install that? If so, make them fix it.
 

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Routed WAY wrong. Did you get instructions with the kit? If not maybe someone here has theirs or go to your dealer and have them print them for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know that hose/line isn't suppose to be like that. I believe it's suppose to be tucked under the floorboard, and I think the floorboard had to be taken off to install it and the hydraulic lift cylinder.

Did the dealer install that? If so, make them fix it.
Yep, dealer installed, on newly delivered tractor.
 

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Yep, dealer installed, on newly delivered tractor.
I'd be calling them in the morning and make them come and get it. I've never seen a line/hose like that. Like you mentioned, that's an accident waiting to happen.
 

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Nope, that is junk. I'd call them and make them try again. IMG_2290.JPG

That is the pic from the installation manual. Leaves a little to be desired.

IMG_3450.JPG IMG_3449.JPG IMG_3448.JPG IMG_3447.JPG

Here are a few pics of my install. Not sure they are very helpful. Had to shoehorn myself into position in my cramped garage to get these. But you can see there is a clamp to hold the hose in place.

I can get some more photos tomorrow eve if you need.

Thanks,

Jeff


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I opted for the independent lift on my new 1025R, and the plumbing hangs down below the belly about 2-3 inches more than it probably should.

With the mower deck off, it forms a loop of hard tubing and hydraulic hose that looks to me to be a disaster in the making. Just a huge possibility of something snagging it when operating the tractor in any kind of brushy environment.

Looking for pictures of the plumbing of other member's tractors that have this option, with the mower deck removed.

Here is a picture of what mine looks like:

View attachment 700962

The way mine is, ...it seems totally unacceptable to me.

I realize that the auto-connect linkage will drop down some, but I think if the hard line is bent toward that pivot point with a tubing bender, that would be a non-issue.

Please post up some pics of yours, if you have this option on your 1 series.
Yes, that is totally unacceptable. I had the independent lift installed on mine and there is nothing like that hanging down under mine. I don't have any pictures but if you look under from the side as in your picture it is clear underneath. They should never have left it like that as it is just begging to be ripped off.
 

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I have the independent lift and mine doesn't look like that. I don't have any pics with the deck off right now, but I never saw any hoses hanging like that.
 

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Ok, I took pics but I was too lazy to take the deck off, but I did lower it to the floor. I don't if this is right, but it's how they installed mine.

hose 1.JPG

hose 2.JPG

hose 3.JPG

hose 4.JPG
 

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Looks like the later kits have swapped out a hard line for a portion of the hose. Mine has a hose that goes all the way from the valve to the cylinder.


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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I took pics but I was too lazy to take the deck off, but I did lower it to the floor. I don't if this is right, but it's how they installed mine.

Thanks jimmylh!

Exactly the ammunition that I was looking for to present to the dealer! ...(for when they probably tell me "Well, that is how it is supposed to be")

I also found a post somewhere that had service manual installation instructions with pictures, and mine is definitely plumbed wrong there. The hard line is on the wrong side of some other hoses that come down through the frame, and not clamped to the frame in two places where it is supposed to be.
 

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Hello all,

New member and new poster here. I recently took delivery of a new 2108 1025R and have ordered the independent MMM lift, which I'll be installing myself. My question is, does the MMM independent lift with the rocker switch still lower when the switch is not activated or will the mower deck hold in place without activating the switch? I'm asking here because you guys have newer machines and I know there seems to be provisions to later models of the 1025R to have the lift system hold the deck in place, rather than using the height adjustment (for fully raised).
 

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Hello all,

New member and new poster here. I recently took delivery of a new 2108 1025R and have ordered the independent MMM lift, which I'll be installing myself. My question is, does the MMM independent lift with the rocker switch still lower when the switch is not activated or will the mower deck hold in place without activating the switch? I'm asking here because you guys have newer machines and I know there seems to be provisions to later models of the 1025R to have the lift system hold the deck in place, rather than using the height adjustment (for fully raised).
I don't think there has been any significant change to the independent lift, I have it on a 2014 model. Basically this is just a single-acting hydraulic cylinder that is only powered one-way, to raise the deck. Lowering is by gravity. You activate the switch (and hold it) to raise the deck all the way up so you can then operate the height adjustment to the position you want. Then you release the switch and the deck falls to the selected position.

The only system that holds the deck in place hydraulically is the Mechanical system, which has the deck lift tied to the 3-point.
 

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Hello all,

New member and new poster here. I recently took delivery of a new 2108 1025R and have ordered the independent MMM lift, which I'll be installing myself. My question is, does the MMM independent lift with the rocker switch still lower when the switch is not activated or will the mower deck hold in place without activating the switch? I'm asking here because you guys have newer machines and I know there seems to be provisions to later models of the 1025R to have the lift system hold the deck in place, rather than using the height adjustment (for fully raised).
All the switch does is lift the deck all the way up as long as you are pushing in the switch. As soon as you let go the deck will lower to where ever you have the deck height knob set.
 

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I don't think there has been any significant change to the independent lift, I have it on a 2014 model. Basically this is just a single-acting hydraulic cylinder that is only powered one-way, to raise the deck. Lowering is by gravity. You activate the switch (and hold it) to raise the deck all the way up so you can then operate the height adjustment to the position you want. Then you release the switch and the deck falls to the selected position.

The only system that holds the deck in place hydraulically is the Mechanical system, which has the deck lift tied to the 3-point.
Yeah, I think it's odd that JD would make an independent lift, yet you need perform other functions such as using the deck height adjuster to keep the deck raised fully. I'm just formulating my plan to change out the switch and add in an inline 2 way solenoid valve to keep the deck up or change out the entire valve & manifold to one that will keep the deck up. Essentially this switch solenoid setup should function the same as a snowplow raise and lower (stays at the height raised with gravity down).
 

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Yeah, I think it's odd that JD would make an independent lift, yet you need perform other functions such as using the deck height adjuster to keep the deck raised fully. I'm just formulating my plan to change out the switch and add in an inline 2 way solenoid valve to keep the deck up or change out the entire valve & manifold to one that will keep the deck up. Essentially this switch solenoid setup should function the same as a snowplow raise and lower (stays at the height raised with gravity down).
I've always thought the same. Not to mention that the default switch location for the independent lift is on the lower left side of the dash and the height selector is also on the left side. So you have to be somewhat of a contortionist to operate both at the same time. Many of us have relocated the switch to the upper right side of the dash beside the PTO switch, which helps some.

Good luck on modifying the system. I've always wondered why they didn't just use an electric linear actuator instead of this goofy setup. But maybe that's just me.
 

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I've always thought the same. Not to mention that the default switch location for the independent lift is on the lower left side of the dash and the height selector is also on the left side. So you have to be somewhat of a contortionist to operate both at the same time. Many of us have relocated the switch to the upper right side of the dash beside the PTO switch, which helps some.

Good luck on modifying the system. I've always wondered why they didn't just use an electric linear actuator instead of this goofy setup. But maybe that's just me.
Be careful what you wish for. Would you really want to have a $2000 computer controlled linear actuator in place of a $340 hydraulic cylinder? Those linear actuators have already proved to be a bit troublesome on the new Gen-2 2-series.

Quite frankly I think most of the MMM setups on the SCUT/CUT tractors are an over priced, overly complex abomination. Take a typical commercial mower for comparison.... a simple mechanical lift held at cut height by a large metal pin through a hole.
 

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Be careful what you wish for. Would you really want to have a $2000 computer controlled linear actuator in place of a $340 hydraulic cylinder? Those linear actuators have already proved to be a bit troublesome on the new Gen-2 2-series.

Quite frankly I think most of the MMM setups on the SCUT/CUT tractors are an over priced, overly complex abomination. Take a typical commercial mower for comparison.... a simple mechanical lift held at cut height by a large metal pin through a hole.
I hear what you are saying and know about some of the problems with the new Gen-2 systems, but that is not what I meant I would like to see, although that is probably the only way JD would do it. The lift on the 1025r does not need to be computer controlled, all it would need is a 12v linear actuator in place of the current hydraulic cylinder and a double-throw switch and maybe a couple of relays to run the actuator up or down, and it stays where it stops when you let off the switch. I had a Craftsman garden tractor over 20 years ago that had a system like this for the 3-point on it and it worked great for years. It lifted anything I put on the 3-point, including a tiller with an 8 hp motor on it just fine. The decks on these tractors are probably a lighter lift than that was.
 
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