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Discussion Starter #1
It’s a 2003 8’10 disc for $1000. I think that’s a good deal and may go get it Sunday. I know Armstrong like this. Cost between 2-4 grand. Armstrong has a little stronger hook up for 3 point hook up I’ve noticed.
 

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HTR Series | Watts Brothers Distributing, Inc.

never seen one with what looks like a pivoting rear half ....3pt disks like that i have always had trouble with bending the down arms when the rear gangs hit a rock and it pushes up faster than the 3pt can flex up....i bet that pivoting rear half would help that problem a lot .....i ended up going to a wheel disk due to the aforementioned problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok thanks, ya I own a 4ft disc that pivots. It’s nice I think. You can take the back off set the blades straight and go through the hay field. I just wanted a little bigger one since I have the larger tractor. Planning on planting a lot of oats again this year. I purchased a 10ft seed drill last year. Do you guys think $1000 sounds like a pretty good deal or would you wait for a 12ft one to come around? I keep going back and fourth on 3point equipment and drawbar equipment. 3 point is s cheaper and easier to turn with. A pull shredder cuts so nice and pretty on uneven ground tho
 

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Ok thanks, ya I own a 4ft disc that pivots. It’s nice I think. You can take the back off set the blades straight and go through the hay field. I just wanted a little bigger one since I have the larger tractor. Planning on planting a lot of oats again this year. I purchased a 10ft seed drill last year. Do you guys think $1000 sounds like a pretty good deal or would you wait for a 12ft one to come around? I keep going back and fourth on 3point equipment and drawbar equipment. 3 point is s cheaper and easier to turn with. A pull shredder cuts so nice and pretty on uneven ground tho
Pull type disks can be much heavier, which is a huge benefit on a disk. Some manufacturers list the 'weight per blade' as a spec. I see 3 pt disks in the 35lb per blade weights, and pull type disks in the 95lb per blade range. This would make a huge difference in ability to cut.

Tim
 

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no idea on prices in your area .

i have been converting pastures into hay fields .....after trying several types of discs ....i settled on a 16' wheel disc with 4' fold up wings....so with the wings folded up its 8' ......this works well i use it in the 8' configuration when doing the initial cutting then in the 16' confirmation for finishing .....the wings folded up adds weight also to the 8' configuration....also if it gets to heavy for my tractor i can wheel down to relieve the drag weight


just noticed i dont have a picture in my files ...will have to remedy that...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
no idea on prices in your area .

i have been converting pastures into hay fields .....after trying several types of discs ....i settled on a 16' wheel disc with 4' fold up wings....so with the wings folded up its 8' ......this works well i use it in the 8' configuration when doing the initial cutting then in the 16' confirmation for finishing .....the wings folded up adds weight also to the 8' configuration....also if it gets to heavy for my tractor i can wheel down to relieve the drag weight


just noticed i dont have a picture in my files ...will have to remedy that...
What’s the difference in smooth blades and knotched? I’m still wondering if this 8’9 is big enough. I measured my old one and it’s 6’6. I like the 3 point because there are no tires to maintain. A lot of the 12-14ft are flat. Even if I purchased one I would have a hard time hauling it. My uncle said he has a 16ft pull but his tractors small he can only run it a few inches in the ground... I think 1000 is pretty cheap I’d like to still try and get him to come off the price though.... I have a bearing or on my old one and figure I’ll be planting oats in just a few months so I need to shop.
 

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What’s the difference in smooth blades and knotched? I’m still wondering if this 8’9 is big enough. I measured my old one and it’s 6’6. I like the 3 point because there are no tires to maintain. A lot of the 12-14ft are flat. Even if I purchased one I would have a hard time hauling it. My uncle said he has a 16ft pull but his tractors small he can only run it a few inches in the ground... I think 1000 is pretty cheap I’d like to still try and get him to come off the price though.... I have a bearing or on my old one and figure I’ll be planting oats in just a few months so I need to shop.

someone else will have to talk about notched discs...all of mine have been smooth...

it stands to reason though notched discs should be more agressive especially in harder rocky soils

you can adjust a lot with the angle (pull and aggression)

also on the one your looking at ....if it has the type of bearings shown in the parts diagram i posted (i call them spool/thimble cast bearing) they require DAILY greaseing with a lot of grease...thats all that keeps the metal apart is the grease...i personally much prefer the sealed ball bearing type bearings ....one thing really good about a 3pt disc is they are easy to get out of the field and into the shop when they start falling apart or break....from my experience the disc your looking at is a garden disc not a field disc...
 

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If my grandfather was still around I would ask him I believe one time he said the fronts are knotched to rip the ground and the rear are smooth to level it. The disc I have now has seals bearings. I have to replace them all the time. It’s best to pour oil over the bearing and spin it before each use. I think sand will get into any bearing if I have to grease them they no big deal as long as the fitting isn’t broke. I may wait... I can find bigger discs that I would like. They are 80 or so miles away. I have no clue how to even haul something like that. The one I’m looking at is 16ft folded 22 unfolded John Deere for 2,200. I’ll post a few pictures. The man admitted to painting putting new tires and bearing. A couple discs broke on him and he’s tired of it. That’s something I understand when it comes to projects. I have a 24ft flat trailer 101inch wide with drive over fenders. I’m not sure if it would fit on it then maybe unbolt the tongue of the disc and set it aside so it’s not sticking out.
 

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16' folded 22 open ......thats a whole lot of disc compared to 10'........i think i would make delivery part of the purchase LOL some of our bridges here are one lane and about 16' ......might be good to inquire as to how much HP/weight you need per foot of disc in your area ...wet/dry


our soils are not sandy so i can not relate to sand in bearings .....we have rocks,clay and top soil......ours bounce when its dry and sink when its wet got to find just the right moisture content ...:)
 

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Broken blades

If my grandfather was still around I would ask him I believe one time he said the fronts are knotched to rip the ground and the rear are smooth to level it. The disc I have now has seals bearings. I have to replace them all the time. It’s best to pour oil over the bearing and spin it before each use. I think sand will get into any bearing if I have to grease them they no big deal as long as the fitting isn’t broke. I may wait... I can find bigger discs that I would like. They are 80 or so miles away. I have no clue how to even haul something like that. The one I’m looking at is 16ft folded 22 unfolded John Deere for 2,200. I’ll post a few pictures. The man admitted to painting putting new tires and bearing. A couple discs broke on him and he’s tired of it. That’s something I understand when it comes to projects. I have a 24ft flat trailer 101inch wide with drive over fenders. I’m not sure if it would fit on it then maybe unbolt the tongue of the disc and set it aside so it’s not sticking out.
I've rarely seen blades break like that. Admittedly, we don't have the rocks that some people do but seeing a relatively new blade where it's broken cleanly around the center makes me wonder what the PO was doing. I've occasionally broken a chunk out of a blade but don't remember breaking one that way.

Sealed bearings should not have to be replaced "all the time" unless the designer didn't utilize a bearing that can stand up to the abuse or the disc is being run so deep that the bottom of the bearing is in the ground. They will eventually fail as the seals are worn away but should have a reasonable life expectancy. Given how much of a PITA it is to break down a disk gang, if they are going out all the time, I'd change to a different bearing hanger and bearing or like you, look for a different disc.

Notched disks do tend to cut a bit better, especially in sod or fields with lots of debris on top like a corn field. They may wear a little faster as there's less material in the blade. Like everything else, it's a trade off.

Transport of the disk will be a challenge. It may go on your trailer sideways with the tongue removed but I think anything over 120" will require flagging and possible a pilot car. You'll need to check your state and or Federal regulations to be sure or just talk to a local equipment dealer. Somebody at the dealership will know.

Let us know the "rest of the story".

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey guys I have a update. I found a 10ft pull type 408 Krause in shepherd tx (104 miles away) I wasn’t a fan of 10ft any more thinking it was a waist since I now have a big mfwd tractor but it was a good price and good shape. On my way I stopped by the local used equipment and tractor place. They saw my trailer and I guess took me serious this time. told them I was going to shepherd for a 10ft. But they had a 14ft John Deere BW. I purchased it for $1,900, the disk had the wings taken off so it’s just 14ft. Perfect size for me I think. Has round blades, I read were better for leveling ground. It has a new cylinder and hoses (not sure what that runs but would like to know)... it has 4 tires that aren’t in good shape. 2 rims are 14in and 2 are 15. Since the disk doesn’t have wings anymore is it necessary to have 4 wheels or can I get by with 2 and remove the mismatch ones? Also are these ford rims old it? They are 5 lug and have big centers like a ford.

To follow up on what’s been said, I think they break discs like that making sharp turns with it down. Also, it was hard to haul a 14ft sideways on a trailer just 8 miles. Would’ve been very hard hauling it in a town or down a narrow highway. Even going home I came close to hitting mailboxes lol.
 

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you will be happy you got a real disc.....that should serve you well....i have never broken a disc but i have ruined some bearings and spacers not a big deal to repair when it happens ......good luck sir:greentractorride:.....
 

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you will be happy you got a real disc.....that should serve you well....i have never broken a disc but i have ruined some bearings and spacers not a big deal to repair when it happens ......good luck sir
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Thanks I was looking this morning and it was proportionate to my tractor. Not to big and not to small. Would you happen to know about the rims on the older BW discs? I’m hoping they are compatible with the old 70-80s ford rims. My old man said something today about equipment having industrial rims.
 

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Could be a cut down trailer axle.........with that size and lug spacing.........
 

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Could be a cut down trailer axle.........with that size and lug spacing.........
Factory John Deere axle and hubs from what I see... I was reading something about implement rims? Maybe something specifically for farm equipment? I know the ones on my spray rig and the ones on my seed drill are completely different then any vehicle rim. If that’s true rims are around 60 a piece for this disc... cousin sent me a picture of some ford rims he had on a old 70s 4wd. They look like they will fit but they are 10inches wide
 

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Take it to a junkyard

A lot of the farm equipment did use automotive rims. Not all but a lot of it did. I'd take a rim to a junkyard and ask if they can match it.

On the other hand, it's not a terrible issue if you can't match it. In the field if you are on hard ground the wheels are probably just floating anyway. If you are on soft ground, like ground that's been plowed the different diameters will just carry slightly different loads and one track will be deeper than the other.

We have a similar sized Oliver disk and while it could be run on two wheels, four was much better in soft ground. If the different rims bother you and you can't find a pair of junk rims, you can make up much of the difference by going to a lower aspect tire on the larger rim. You can get pretty close to the same overall diameter that way and a disk isn't really a precision piece of equipment.

I would find a cap for that wheel bearing though unless you like replacing wheel bearings. The grease will attract dust/dirt and eat things up in a hurry. It also looks like the transport strap is missing. In the 4th picture there should be a piece of flat steel with a slot in it. One end attaches to the frame and the other goes to the axle lift. You raise the disk with the cylinder, install the strap using the bolt at the top of the lift are/lobe and then take the pressure off the cylinder. The strap is slotted so you don't have to have the cylinder in a precise position. I see a chain there, maybe somebody replaced the strap with a chain which will work but I'm pretty sure it was a strap about 1 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick originally.

If someone is breaking blades by turning too short when the disk is down, they will learn in a hurry that it's much easier to raise the disk when turning than replacing blades. We tried to plan the work pattern to use wide sweeping turns anyway as a disk is sensitive to speed and angle of cut. Turning short with it in the ground just makes a mess even if you don't break a blade.

Treefarmer
 
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