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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to find the post, but I though I read once a long time ago that flipping the draft links around end for end will change the geometry enough that the front blade of the box blade can either dig in more or less aggressively (assuming the top link is left alone). Just wondering because right now my front blade doesn't really cut below grade at all, and I would like it to be more aggressive.
 

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Last weekend when I was installing my 3 point hitch for the first time on my new 1025R FILB I read through some posts about it & saw something that might be what you're talking about.

In one thread someone pointed out that the distance from the bend to the ball on each end of the lower arms is different by an inch or so. One guy mentioned that he discovered that by swapping his lower arms so that the longer distance ends are on the implement when lowered the ends were like 3" closer to the ground than the other way. I think he said he could only lower his hitch to like 11" off the ground until he swapped them & then it was like 8" off the ground. I put my lower arms on with the longer distance away from the tractor &, IIRC, mine was 7.5" or 8" off the ground when lowered. (I believe there was some sort of small stamped figure on the longer end of the arms on mine if that helps.) If yours is set the other way & you swap the lower arms around it should hopefully allow you to lower the box blade more & take a bigger bite. I think I have also seen where some people may have bought another adjustable lift link so that both sides are adjustable to get a little more range when lifting & lowering.

I have no experience with box blades, but that is on my wish list so I have done a little research into them. I have seen somewhere where people stated that if you adjust the top link to tip the front of the box blade it affects how aggressive of a bite it takes as well. I'm not sure, but IIRC tipping the front down so it is lower than the back of the box blade should make it dig more aggressively compared to more of a grading action if it is level or tipped back. This was for pulling it while diving forward so I assume if you're backing up pushing with it this would be the opposite.

Good luck to you.
 

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Why not just adjust your top link :dunno:
 

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Adjusting the top link on my box blade will give you a lot of bite with the blade or a lot of bite with the ripper teeth depending on which way you go. With the top link closed all the way in the blade on the box blade doesn't even touch the ground almost.

I only adjust the lower link to keep the blade level. Adding a second adjustable lower link to the set up sounds like it could be handy from time to time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With the top link maxed out the front blade does not go low and "steep" enough to "scrape" below grade if that makes sense. I have had my 3 pt hitch off and on a few times and I remember thinking, "wow this is very steep and really scrapes below grade" so maybe I had the draft links on the opposite way? Maybe it was just my imagination? I guess I'll just have to flip them around and see if I remember correctly or if I was dreaming lol. I'll also have to pay attention to how high it lifts with the arm on in the different orientation. I'll report back but it may not be until later next week. Thanks for the replies guys.
 

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The blade on the box blade will only dig as deep as the side plates or ripper teeth let it go into the ground.

Once I've made a pass with the ripping teeth I can come back with the blade and it will dig right down to where the bottom of the ripper grooves.

In my brief time using the implement I've found the teeth do the digging work and the blade is just there for pushing and smoothing the loose dirt the teeth leave behind. The blade also does a good job of collecting the rocks that are kicked up.
 

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I can't remember for sure when I had my 1025R, but I suspect you can change this by lengthening the lift links. My 4066R allows me to make such changes. The right side is controlled by a turnbuckle adjustment, but the left side is changed by taking the top of the link off and twisting it to lengthen the link. Remember that if you do this, your implement will not lift as high off the ground. However, you will be able to dig below ground level.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The blade on the box blade will only dig as deep as the side plates or ripper teeth let it go into the ground.

Once I've made a pass with the ripping teeth I can come back with the blade and it will dig right down to where the bottom of the ripper grooves.

In my brief time using the implement I've found the teeth do the digging work and the blade is just there for pushing and smoothing the loose dirt the teeth leave behind. The blade also does a good job of collecting the rocks that are kicked up.
Yes but the blade sits below the side plates, so if the whole box blade was lower, or if was tilted forward enough to ride on the front rounded part of the side plate only, then the blade would be below ground level.

Lets say doing a job like scraping ice off an asphalt driveway kind of thing, so have the blade lower than the side plates to scrape the ice.

Frustrating for me to explain it all or take pictures since I am away from my tractor. (Or just flip around the draft links and get my answer lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can't remember for sure when I had my 1025R, but I suspect you can change this by lengthening the lift links. My 4066R allows me to make such changes. The right side is controlled by a turnbuckle adjustment, but the left side is changed by taking the top of the link off and twisting it to lengthen the link. Remember that if you do this, your implement will not lift as high off the ground. However, you will be able to dig below ground level.
Not too sure about how this works until I see my tractor, but I know I have the side link adjustment for left right to angle the implement (like to crown a road), and there are 2 smaller turnbuckles one on each side to control the sway or swing from side to side (I think they are even called sway links if I'm not mistaken?)
 

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Not too sure about how this works until I see my tractor, but I know I have the side link adjustment for left right to angle the implement (like to crown a road), and there are 2 smaller turnbuckles one on each side to control the sway or swing from side to side (I think they are even called sway links if I'm not mistaken?)

The sway links are something different than what I am referring to. They only control side to side movement. I am talking about the lift links that run vertical from the lift arms down to the 3pt arms. These are adjustable.

Dave
 

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The sway links are something different than what I am referring to. They only control side to side movement. I am talking about the lift links that run vertical from the lift arms down to the 3pt arms. These are adjustable.

Dave
Only the right side lift link is adjustable when stock, I added an adjustable link to the left side as well.

Either way, the top link is the main way to make the adjustment he is referring too. When he says “ maxed out” I would picture the top link bring all the way out. As mentioned above, I do my ripping and then just set the box blade almost level or just slightly forward and the blade will easily pick up what is loosened up.


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Only the right side lift link is adjustable when stock, I added an adjustable link to the left side as well.

Either way, the top link is the main way to make the adjustment he is referring too. When he says “ maxed out” I would picture the top link bring all the way out. As mentioned above, I do my ripping and then just set the box blade almost level or just slightly forward and the blade will easily pick up what is loosened up.


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I got the impression he wanted to dig below ground level necessitating the entire box blade be lower than the tires, thereby needing longer lift links. The left link can be changed by removing the top end from the mounting point and twisting it to extend the length of it. The right side has the turnbuckle for easier adjustment.

Dave
 

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Great info.

I am closing on a house the end of the month and will be the proud owner of over 1,000 ft of gravel drive. 90 % is on a deeded right of way through a forest companies land. So I will be looking for a box blade and will be trying to figure out using it on my 2305.

Should be fun..
 

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I got the impression he wanted to dig below ground level necessitating the entire box blade be lower than the tires, thereby needing longer lift links. The left link can be changed by removing the top end from the mounting point and twisting it to extend the length of it. The right side has the turnbuckle for easier adjustment.

Dave
It just dawned on me, do we even know what tractor the OP is referring too :dunno:
My comment on the lift links was in reference to your 1025 comment, there is no adjustment to the left side link on a stock 1 series. I guess I'll go over to the gear grinder thread and post how nice it would be if everyone had a signature with there equipment.

Now for the draft links, the hole that the turnbuckle bolts through is not centered, however, the stock setting is the lower setting. I reversed mine on my 2025R trying to get more lift height, when I turned them around not only did I only gain about 1/2-3/4" of lift height, I lost almost 4" at the bottom end.
 

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It just dawned on me, do we even know what tractor the OP is referring too :dunno:
My comment on the lift links was in reference to your 1025 comment, there is no adjustment to the left side link on a stock 1 series. I guess I'll go over to the gear grinder thread and post how nice it would be if everyone had a signature with there equipment.

Now for the draft links, the hole that the turnbuckle bolts through is not centered, however, the stock setting is the lower setting. I reversed mine on my 2025R trying to get more lift height, when I turned them around not only did I only gain about 1/2-3/4" of lift height, I lost almost 4" at the bottom end.

I went back and looked at his original post and did not see any reference to a tractor. My reference to the 1025R was that I did not remember whether mine did have that feature. My 4066R does and in fact, I had to extend the lift links just so I could hook up my RFM when I first got the tractor as the lift links were as short as they could be.

Dave
 

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He could just try it himself and then report back. He was just on here, but failed to tell us what tractor he has.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
He could just try it himself and then report back. He was just on here, but failed to tell us what tractor he has.
Haha, geeze give a not very computer knowledgable guy a chance! Testing if the signature is in here now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got the impression he wanted to dig below ground level necessitating the entire box blade be lower than the tires, thereby needing longer lift links. The left link can be changed by removing the top end from the mounting point and twisting it to extend the length of it. The right side has the turnbuckle for easier adjustment.

Dave
This^^^^^ or like I was saying earlier scraping ice off of ashpalt
 

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Haha, geeze give a not very computer knowledgable guy a chance! Testing if the signature is in here now.
Yes :good2:

Now you can read back a couple of posts and find answers. I don't think the draft link reversal is going to be the answer though, try it out and let us know, I know what my results were.
 
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