[kylew]

Assuming you're wanting to run it at 120 volts, 1 & 3 to one of the source wires, 2 & 4 to the other. Doesn't matter if 1/3 is black or white from the source.

Wire colors of the windings mean nothing, it's the numbers that matter.

You may have a burned field coil or armature coil. Do an ohm test from lead 1 to 2, and then 3 to 4...the readings should be close to each other, and relativity small. Also do a reading from each individual lead to ground. None of them should show any ohms. If the reading(s) are low, that coil is shorted to ground (or leaking to ground).

If you get a reading between 1 to 3 or 4, you should get a reading from 2 to 3 or 4. That may indicate that the armature is connected between the coils.

You may have found 3 wirenuts because the previous owner had it wired as 240v. 1 would be to nut 2 to 3, 1 would be 1 to the source and the third would be 4 to the source.

This is just general info to get started. If you can disassemble the motor you can get better testing on each piece and look for damage.

 

[kylew]

Zero ohms or infinity (an open winding)?

I should clarify... lead 1 is the connected to a winding with 2 being the other end of that same winding. The same with the other winding...3 is one end, 4 is the other. 1 & 2 should be infinity (open) to 3 or 4 unless the windings are connected to the armature (through brushes).

It sounds like one of the windings is hurt. If the motor spins but doesn't have adequate torque, it's an indication one of the windings is hurt. Tearing it apart and bench testing each piece should tell you what's happened.

FYI... each of the coils are rated 120v. When you connect 2 to 3, and supply power at 1 & 4 the coils are in series and can accept 240v. When you connect leads 1 & 3 to the source and 2 & 4 to the other line of the source, the coils are in parallel, and can only accept 120v. When the coils are in parallel and you connect 240v to them, the coils fry. You may already know this?