Cost is the only reason and I’m not sure if milling would cost more or not. Given a choice I’d use the millings.

 

I've done some searching and in my area I get can screened millings for $10.50 a ton plus $84 a load delivered. Their truck holds 20-21 tons. 57 stone seems to be more than that from what I've found.

For those that have used millings how thick have you applied them and have you rolled them afterwards?

 

I'd stick with what you already have as a base for uniformity and also appearance if that matters to you. Otherwise cost and availability as priorities.

 

Curious, do millings pack as well as crusher run? Up keep may be more involved than crusher run (snow plowing)
I did find this Asphalt Milling 101: What Is It and Why Is It Important? | 806-930-8185

 

Curious, do millings pack as well as crusher run? Up keep may be more involved than crusher run (snow plowing)
I did find this Asphalt Milling 101: What Is It and Why Is It Important? | 806-930-8185

One issue I've found with millings is that they can pack in sheets or strips and basically be impossible to grade after that. However, they make a good material if there's no issue of erosion or you know regrading won't be needed. Unfortunately, most hillsides that I've dealt with needed periodic regrading to maintain a steep enough crown to shed water.

 

I have used reclaimed asphalt/concrete numerous times for base and parking. My only concern for a road is the possibility of further breakdown if there is a large percentage of crushed concrete.

Reclaimed concrete can continue to degrade which will lead to a soft sandy material where reclaimed asphalt does not. I would inquire about the ratio before I went ahead with using reclaimed material for your application.

 

If you get gravel get it with a binder in it - stone dust. It makes it pack much better.

Our DER made it illegal for us to use millings anymore. So I use #2A which is #2 limestone with a binder. Packs real well and lasts a long time.

 

He said millings so I’m assuming millings from an asphalt road.

 

Better check with zoning if you’re putting crushed asphalt on your property. It’s got petroleum products in it and nowadays isn’t allowed at dump sited due to leech off. If you have ponds or waterways nesrby be careful. Also that stuff gets real dusty in the summer months. And yes asphalt millings break down just like concrete millings.

 

If gravel - I recommend Crusher Run as noted by Gizmo.
Way better for driveways that just straight gravel.

Asphalt millings are ok but they will "flow" just like gravel - as you drive on it. Unless they have various grades and can get the more "fine" stuff as opposed to Coarse 3/4" type bits....

 

Used asphalt millings a lot for equipment and truck lots....12" thick sprayed with a activator and rolled, flat areas.....it worked well for that but it was highly worked onsite....using it on a residential driveway dumped and graded could present some issues...#1 it is not size consistent unless it's been screened...#2 in hot weather it can rebind in tire drive paths and not in others...#3 it becomes a uncontrolled petroleum product...#4 it does not compact like a limestone rock product with fines in it

In our area building regulations considers it a dust free surface

I have seen it used for driveways just fine it is just a different product

 

One of my neighbors bought 25 tons (semi end-dump) load of millings for a driveway I maintain for him. He drives the semi end-dump, so delivery was "free".

He got it much cheaper than what you would pay for the AB-3 (1.5" down to fines) road gravel we normally used on his drive, but one of the problems was that it was full of large clumps that made it a mess to spread and grade.

It packed pretty nicely with the petroleum content, but we have noticed that it washes out in heavy rains a lot worse than AB-3.

I stick with AB-3 for my driveway.

 

From my experiences with multiple sizes of rock and more recently the asphalt milling last year.
I am convert to the crushed asphalt millings. I wishing I had started using them sooner.

So far this spring and what I saw last year the millings are performing much better at controlling vegetation growth.
Seems grass and weeds like to grown in my gravel better then my lawn at times. lol

I use a land plane multiple times a year as well as a lot of round up to try and keep vegetation from overtaking my parking areas, roads and driveway.

 

I've had good luck with crushed concrete. Not to be confused with washout.

Our county doesn't allow asphalt millings any longer. I have also heard of it clumping and being difficult to maintain.

 

The millings I'm looking at are screen. I would assume that would mean there is not any large chunks.

I guess the big thing that concerns me is that I live on a farm so my driveway sees some heavy equipment during the year. Not a lot as it's a grain farm, so usually in the spring to spray plant and than again in the fall to harvest. Plus UPS/Fedex 100 trips to the house a year. But being heavier than the avg car I worry that the millings would compact to much in the tire tracks and if/when I need to rework with my landplane it would be a nightmare.

 

What happens to millings when they get hot in the sun and a heavy vehicle drives over them? I am thinking you just ended up with trails of clumped millings but I have no personal experience with them.

 

Yes that can happen where there is more tar on the product to heat and stick together under pressure...also unlike lime crusher products asphalt millings usually have sand but no powder in them that doesn't compact and bind well so it can wash out between larger particles loosening things back up.....it can work fine just have to understand the product and use appropriately.........we used it successfully for years for tracked equipment yards where the county required dust free surfaces where maintenance was putting on another layer and spraying and rolling it

 

I put down "recycled asphalt" on the steepest portion of our driveway. I don't know if this stuff was millings, but they said that it was ground up asphalt removed from roadways or driveways that were replaced. Anyway, it had a tar odor after I levelled it out and packed it down with the tractor tires. Where this material has direct sunlight on it, it has packed down to a pavement-like surface. There's always some loose material on the top, but there are places where it looks like blacktop. For a steep unpaved surface, I wouldn't use anything else, unless environmental forces prohibit its use.

 

I had millings put down on my gravel driveway many years ago. They rolled them out with a vibrating roller. When finished it was almost like I had a paved driveway. My snow blower didn't even dig in anymore. They lasted for a lot of years but eventually they needed a touch up and I wanted to put them on my parking area. When I called around to the places that previously offered them they said they were no longer allowed to sell them (PA) as they were now classified as hazardous waste. I got this same response from several suppliers. So I just went with another load of crushed stones.

Something apparently changed years later because I now see folks in the area advertising millings again.

The only negative I will offer is that the cleanliness of the millings varies greatly. Our neighbor had them put down at the same time as I did and his driveway ended up with a lot of foreign debris... old rags, chucks of metal, etc. mixed in with the millings.

 

I used "screened" milling a few yrs back to do a friend's driveway over old crush n run. The biggest pieces are maybe 3/8 to 7/16" down to sand grains and finer. It spread and compacted nicely. I laid 40 some ton about 3.5 to 4" thick. I really enjoyed working with it. From the way it compacted I could see it being an issue trying to regrade it, I think it would clump. Grading it again here won't be an issue as I put a nice crown on it and the sides drain off well. So I should never have to touch it again. The 12' close to the road I scratched in several bags of Portland cement mix to firm it up from being pushed around as vehicles come/go. 2 yrs later it's still flat. Few pics from it.

 

Curious about the Portland adder....can you add to that description and how you got it mixed and end results ..thx

 

Straight millings can be great. But do all you can to compact it, and put a crown in the road. Drive your heavy trucks off to one side to compact the middle and edges.

#57 is a poor choice since it has no fines and will not compact properly.

CR6 is the best driveway material short of hot rolled asphalt or concrete. CR6, when compacted, basically turns into concrete. You can ride your bike on it just like a road.

You can also add 30% CR6 to millings to get both the economy of millings, and the performance of CR6

 

Pic of driveway end with Portland mixed in to lock it down. 2yrs in service.

 

About how thick do you spread the cement on?