Dual cylinder rack for my MM 210 Welder

Ok, you make welding look like it's too much fun. Very nice!

eepete said:

Ok, you make welding look like it's too much fun. Very nice!

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Thanks Pete. Oh, it IS fun:laugh:

OK, so I got the top rack built today, the album link above is updated.

Nice job Kenny. I might do the same thing for my bottles. Thanks for posting it.

Kenny, What thickness of metal did you use for the areas you curved for the tanks to sit in?

Brian said:

Kenny, What thickness of metal did you use for the areas you curved for the tanks to sit in?

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The bottom and the sides are cut from a 12 gauge (about 1/8") sheet with my PC. The top rach is made with all 3/16"x2" flat bar.

Good job Kennyd. What type of plasma cutter do you have?

FordGuy said:

Good job Kennyd. What type of plasma cutter do you have?

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Thanks! It's a Hypertherm PowerMax 600

That turned out real NICE! I bought the Miller option. I must say yours is more compact. I added a side hook for the 50 foot extension cord I made for it. Now I can plug in from any where in my shop.

Thanks Randy. I got it all primed and painted this past weekend, they are hanging in the basement curing as I type. Will get it all mounted and take final pictures later this week or over the weekend.

I looked and the Miller option online, I didn't like the price or the way it changed the footprint. Mine will work with the 40cf or 80cf bottles because they are both around 7". That is the way Miller should have done it and only required the new kit if you wanted the HUGE bottles (120cf?).

When I first got my 210, I changed the input cord to a 25' 10-3 SO cord so I wouldn't need an extension cord anywhere I needed to go in the shop or driveway. That short little 6'er they put on it is a joke.

I finally got the rack installed, and made a few practice/test welds today. Boy do I need practice with this! Some things learned:

1. I need practice
2. The wire speed is FAST, you need to move the gun quickly. You also push the gun, not pull it.
3. I need practice
4. You cannot run a long bead, the stock absorbs to much heat and will melt through easily if you try. So short "stitch" welds are required.
5. I need practice.
6. It is cleaner than welding steel, there is no sparks flying around.
7. I need practice.
8. It not no as pretty as TIG, but the weld I made where solid with good penetration.
9. I need practice.
10. the AL absorbs so much heat, the stock warps VERY easily.

There are updated pictures in the web albums linked above.

Its hard for me to go back and forth between steel and aluminum. Aluminum turns white or almost clear when its hot. Red (steel) is so much easier.

When I built a new ramp for the little rzr on the aluminum trailer, I tacked everything in place good then I made the final passes and watched for movement. Not easy.

Brian said:

Its hard for me to go back and forth between steel and aluminum. Aluminum turns white or almost clear when its hot. Red (steel) is so much easier.

When I built a new ramp for the little rzr on the aluminum trailer, I tacked everything in place good then I made the final passes and watched for movement. Not easy.

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Spill the beans Brian...What equipment do you have? Any pictures of this ramp?

I do not have the equipment. Its my uncles. I know very little about it other than to turn it on. LOL... I will get pictures of the ramp soon. My dad has the trailer up at deer camp and will not bring it home until the end of rifle season. Trust me, its nothing special. I have a hard time with it. By the time I was done with the ramp I about had it down, but I will elarn all over again when I do my next project.

Kenny, I have the Miller 210 with the dual setup. You are correct on all of your observations. I also learned on my own. Sounds like you were welding some thin stuff. Miller.com has a lot of helpful tips you may want to check out. You will find that you will do alot more stuff in aluminum than you thought. I use mine all the time. The next thing you will be looking at is powder coating. It is pretty easy and the the initial investment is relatively small. I will have to get some pics of some of the stuff I have done posted. I was planning on posting just a little later. I will have to get on the stick now. Biggest project I did was my paint booth doors.

Kenny,
Just reviewed your photos, looks like 1/8 inch. You are going through the same issues I had. It just takes practice and yes you have to move the gun faster. I have found that beveling your joints can help a lot also. Did you find the settings chart on the machine. I have found these to be good starting points. The settings for aluminum need more teaking than steel depending on your joint construction. I will find that the thicker material 1/4 in and up will start to behave more like steel. I think you have a really good start.

RandyM said:

Kenny,
Just reviewed your photos, looks like 1/8 inch. You are going through the same issues I had. It just takes practice and yes you have to move the gun faster. I have found that beveling your joints can help a lot also. Did you find the settings chart on the machine. I have found these to be good starting points. The settings for aluminum need more teaking than steel depending on your joint construction. I will find that the thicker material 1/4 in and up will start to behave more like steel. I think you have a really good start.

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Thanks for the encouragement Randy, I sure do appreciate it. The angle is 3/16" as I wrote in the captions below the pictures, and the setting I used where from the door chart-they are usually dead-nuts on with steel so that is what I went with for the AL.

I have read the Miller site, and even have several books and a nice jean jacket that I got in a special offer I received after I registered my welder years ago...I guess I should dig them out and refresh myself.

RandyM said:

The next thing you will be looking at is powder coating. It is pretty easy and the the initial investment is relatively small. I will have to get some pics of some of the stuff I have done posted.

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VERY True, But I'd say its better to find a shop that does it...For what I pay to have stuff coated, I dont see how I could ever come out ahead....and I'm just talking the investment in tools...nevermind the fact they got a bazillion powders in stock....

Spudland_Dave said:

VERY True, But I'd say its better to find a shop that does it...For what I pay to have stuff coated, I dont see how I could ever come out ahead....and I'm just talking the investment in tools...nevermind the fact they got a bazillion powders in stock....

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Actually, you maybe surprised at how affordable it is to set yourself up to powder coat. An inexpensive gun is around $100 and then all you need is a second hand oven $25 tops. A little powder you can buy on line at Powder By The Pound (a ton of colors) and you are all set to go. Now I can paint without waiting for someone else.