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Dual cylinder rack for my MM 210 Welder

10509 Views 43 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  mjncad
I recently bought a used spoolgun to try my hand at welding AL and needed to buy a tank of Argon, but my welder would not hold the second tank. Miller sells a kit-but it's about $200 and widens the stance of the welder quite a bit so I started making this. Still need to build the top support rack, but the bottom is done except for paint.
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Ok, you make welding look like it's too much fun. Very nice!
Thanks Pete. Oh, it IS fun:laugh:
OK, so I got the top rack built today, the album link above is updated.
Kenny, What thickness of metal did you use for the areas you curved for the tanks to sit in?
The bottom and the sides are cut from a 12 gauge (about 1/8") sheet with my PC. The top rach is made with all 3/16"x2" flat bar.
Good job Kennyd. What type of plasma cutter do you have?
Thanks! It's a Hypertherm PowerMax 600
Thanks Randy. I got it all primed and painted this past weekend, they are hanging in the basement curing as I type. Will get it all mounted and take final pictures later this week or over the weekend.

I looked and the Miller option online, I didn't like the price or the way it changed the footprint. Mine will work with the 40cf or 80cf bottles because they are both around 7". That is the way Miller should have done it and only required the new kit if you wanted the HUGE bottles (120cf?).

When I first got my 210, I changed the input cord to a 25' 10-3 SO cord so I wouldn't need an extension cord anywhere I needed to go in the shop or driveway. That short little 6'er they put on it is a joke.
I finally got the rack installed, and made a few practice/test welds today. Boy do I need practice with this! Some things learned:

1. I need practice
2. The wire speed is FAST, you need to move the gun quickly. You also push the gun, not pull it.
3. I need practice
4. You cannot run a long bead, the stock absorbs to much heat and will melt through easily if you try. So short "stitch" welds are required.
5. I need practice.
6. It is cleaner than welding steel, there is no sparks flying around.
7. I need practice.
8. It not no as pretty as TIG, but the weld I made where solid with good penetration.
9. I need practice.
10. the AL absorbs so much heat, the stock warps VERY easily.

There are updated pictures in the web albums linked above.
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Its hard for me to go back and forth between steel and aluminum. Aluminum turns white or almost clear when its hot. Red (steel) is so much easier.

When I built a new ramp for the little rzr on the aluminum trailer, I tacked everything in place good then I made the final passes and watched for movement. Not easy.
Spill the beans Brian...What equipment do you have? Any pictures of this ramp?
Just reviewed your photos, looks like 1/8 inch. You are going through the same issues I had. It just takes practice and yes you have to move the gun faster. I have found that beveling your joints can help a lot also. Did you find the settings chart on the machine. I have found these to be good starting points. The settings for aluminum need more teaking than steel depending on your joint construction. I will find that the thicker material 1/4 in and up will start to behave more like steel. I think you have a really good start.
Thanks for the encouragement Randy, I sure do appreciate it. The angle is 3/16" as I wrote in the captions below the pictures, and the setting I used where from the door chart-they are usually dead-nuts on with steel so that is what I went with for the AL.

I have read the Miller site, and even have several books and a nice jean jacket that I got in a special offer I received after I registered my welder years ago...I guess I should dig them out and refresh myself.
One of my first aluminum weld projects was a big one. Did a ton of learning on it. Here are some pics of my paint booth doors.
I couldnt buy an oven big enough to fit my needs for $25.00 :laugh:

For example...
Deere 246 Broom...not a single drop of liquid paint on it...Everything is powdercoated...Same goes for the 7.5' Fisher Plow I modded for Skid Steer QA mounting. And many other things.

You're also forgetting a sandblaster, blasting media, etc... everything I have professionally coated gets sandblasted and then coated...
I need to look into this more...
Here's the Miller dual cylinder kit with my spool gun. Now I need to try it out.
Nice pictures Matt, I might suggest you add a Tweco Connector to the spoolgun lead so it's easier to remove it for storage.


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Here is the built in gun storage for both guns. Just wrap the cables on to the holder and you are set to go. :good2: It is all pretty slick.
Mine has that also (all the 210's do) but two reasons I don't use it are:

1) I rarely use the spoolgun.
2) I have the Miller cover that I keep on my machine whenever it's not being used, so you can't have the guns sticking up like that. I do hang the ground cable and MIG gun from the hook though.
Newbie here... found this site while searching for mods to the MM210 for dual tanks. Found Kennyd's thread and and a JD site all in one.
Thanks to Kennyd for the pictorial, just finished the mods to my MM210 to eliminate swapping tanks. Having studied closely the photos have a few things in common . JD 4310 430 loader, powermax 600, MM210, and I noticed a case from Keystone Lights, knew I was on the right page. Thank You!!
Welcome to DT hiflyer! :welcomedt

I am glad you joined up, and double glad my build helped you out! The Keystone is my fathers though...I can't stand it! Please post some pictures of your stuff and introduce yourself to the forum in the Welcome section:yahoo:
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