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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

Received my EA Single Lid Grapple and after some difficulty - hydraulic pressure in the grapple hoses - was able to get it installed on my 4052R. I have a few questions for those of you who have this particular EA Grapple.

(1) When finishing a job, what is the best procedure when uninstalling the grapple, so I don't have the hydraulic pressure problem again? I have the button switch on my joy stick to open and close the grapple.

(2) Does the grapple jaw open and close with a smooth fluid motion, or as in my set up, is a jerky movement of the jaws opening and closing , the norm?

(3) Before using my grapple, I greased the grease joints, but how do you know when you have sufficiently greased the joints? Original post stated ball joints . . . incorrect on my part.

There will be a learning curve with my grapple . . . :lovetongue:

Appreciate any comments.

FredSG
 

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I will start off by saying I don’t own one of theses but my guess is that you have air in the system that needs worked out.
But just a guess
 

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Your questions aren’t really unique to your particular brand of grapple but I’ll do my best as one who owns an Artillian diverter and grapple.

1-work your diverter (the joystick SCV) while pressing the button, most likely by having the tractor motor off but key turned “ON” this should allow the tractor side of the lines to relive and equalize pressure. When parking it try and set the grapple where there will not be pressure one one side of the cylinder or the other-for example-close the lid so the cylinder isn’t going to be pressurized by the weight of the lid trying to close.

2-The hydraulics and the cylinder should be able to give you smooth motion of the lid. You will either need to learn to finesse the lever SCV to provide a smooth controlled movement or you are pushing the lever SCV too far into “regen” which may cause erratic and jerky movements-do not try to open or close the grapple by pushing the SCV into the regen position.

3-“ball joints”? Does your grapple truly have ball joints or just greasable joints or pins with grease zerks? I’ve never seen this type of implement with true ball joints. If they are just zerks on a pin or sleeve-just grease them until the fresh grease comes out of the joint displacing the old dirty grease. Wipe off the old and excess and grapple happily.
 

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The advice balrog said is mostly correct, but I'll fine tune it a bit since you do not have a diverter system:

1. Before taking the grapple off, close the lid all the way, turn off the engine but leave or return to the key to the RUN position, then operate the buttons. You should hear the 3rd SCV solenoid clicking, this should equalize pressure in the lines. Now, if there is a large temperature differential from when you remove it to the next time, pressure can return in the lines on the grapple side, this is not uncommon, and there are a few way to relieve it:
1A. If you have pressure in the grapple lines, you can either:
-Wrap a rag over the male end and press against the frame to bleed a bit of fluid.
-Use two wrenches to loosen the male coupler to bleed a bit of fluid.
-Get one of our pressure release tool when they are released, hopefully in the next week or so.
1B. If you have pressure on the tractor side couplers, follow the instructions in #1 to have the key in the RUN position with the engine off and operate the buttons.

2. Most likely you need to install a simple flow restrictor in one of the lines. Since you have a electric 3rd SCV, you can't "feather" it, so when you hit a button your pushing a lot of fluid fast into the small grapple cylinder making it move fast and jerky. A simple .030" inline restrictor will solve that issue.

3. No clue here, not sure what they are using for pivots.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Ken.

You wrote - 2. Most likely you need to install a simple flow restrictor in one of the lines. Since you have a electric 3rd SCV, you can't "feather" it, so when you hit a button your pushing a lot of fluid fast into the small grapple cylinder making it move fast and jerky. A simple .030" inline restrictor will solve that issue.

Exactly where do I install the in-line flow restrictor? On the grapple hose or the tractor end? On which hose would it work best - coming in or going out?

Thanks,

FredSG
 

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Exactly where do I install the in-line flow restrictor? On the grapple hose or the tractor end? On which hose would it work best - coming in or going out?

Thanks,
It technically does not mater where you install it, if you had to put 1/4" couplers on your grapple then that would be a great place since they are readily available with 1/4" NPT threads. The "come in" and "go out" line changes depending on which way the grapple is operating, in other words opening or closing. You can install one in each hose without issue also.
 

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I have the EA wicked 55 single lid grapple (and love it). I open mine fully and curl forward until the tips are on the ground (or pallet). I turn the tractor off and operate all the loader functions and my Artillian 3rd function button to relieve all pressure. Then I disconnect my grapple. Works great for me and the grapple is stable that way and easy to reconnect. No jerky motion for me. Good luck.
 

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No jerky motion for me. Good luck.

Your 1023e has much lower flow (GPM) than Fred's 4-series machine, plus with the Artillian diverter you can feather the joystick-he can't. Apples to oranges comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ken,

Thanks for your reply.

I just read that there is an "adjustable "in-line flow control restrictor that I could use, or did I miss read? Do you know how the "adjustments" are made?

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ken,

You wrote - My personal opinion is that the added cost and bulkiness of these is not worth it in this application.

Are you referring to any "flow restrictor" or JUST the "adjustable" flow restrictors?

Thanks again for your input.

Fred
 

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Ken,

You wrote - My personal opinion is that the added cost and bulkiness of these is not worth it in this application.

Are you referring to any "flow restrictor" or JUST the "adjustable" flow restrictors?

Thanks again for your input.

Fred
The adjustable ones, Fred I thought that was clear when I wrote "these: and then added links? Especially when I mentioned the cost and bulkiness of them.

Simple inline restrictors are cheap (we sell ours for only $4.50 each) and very small:
 

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FredSG:

I am using the restrictors that Kenny is talking about.

They work great.

Call him, give him your address and your CC number, follow his instructions.

Life will be good.

:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey RTGT,

What's involved in installing the restrictors? Where did you install yours? On one hose line or both, and on the grapple hose lines or where? You can't leave me hanging out here without full and complete explanations. My grapple hoses have 3/8" couplings . . . does this matter?

C'mon more details please? Photos of your install would be great to see.

FredSG
 

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The restrictors are simple to install. Just remove one fitting and install in-between the two parts, like a hose and QD. The restrictors are simply a washer with a precision hole in it.
 

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If you wanted to keep full flow at the front connections you can put the restrictor in the grapple lines.

I put the restrictor in the lines going to the front. The kit I used had a rear half and front half with connections where the loader ports are.

At the mid connection point is where I put the restrictor.

Since the restrictor works in either flow direction I only used one.
 

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I have no jerkiness with my grapple, are you operating it at ~2000 rpm, and have you cycled it enough to get the air out? The electric valve is quick operating, so movements can start or stop abruptly. But when opening or closing it does so at a steady rate.
 

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I have no jerkiness with my grapple, are you operating it at ~2000 rpm, and have you cycled it enough to get the air out? The electric valve is quick operating, so movements can start or stop abruptly. But when opening or closing it does so at a steady rate.
It does take some time to get the air out. To speed up the process I made a little jumper hose and put on the front connections to bleed out the lines. I also took the connectors off of the grapple cylinder and put them in a jar of hyrdo oil and manually opened and closed the grapple a few times.

This shorted the bleeding time. No it wasn't really necessary but I do a lot of things that aren't.

Part of the reason I bleed the grapple cylinder is because I wanted to purge the Kubota UDT hydro oil from the cylinder. The grapple started on my B3200. So I opened the lines, expelled fluid into an empty container, put the line in JD oil, sucked it into the cylinder, expelled it into the old fluid container a couple times.

I added the restrictor to slow down the movement.
 

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When you remove the grapple I would suggest storing in whichever orientation (jaws opened or closed,) keeps the cylinders in their bores to protect them.

Rick
 
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