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I have a Sabre 1646 that is having electrical issues.

It normally starts right up and then last year it just clicked with no turn of the starter.
To troubleshoot I tried jumping the selenoid, nothing. I tried another battery. Nothing. Put in a new starter, it actually cranked but still not enough to start.
So I jump started it with the car to get it going.

This year I thought, maybe that was an old battery they sold me. I picked up another one with more CCA's and have had a carefree experience all summer so far.

Then today, same thing. Battery shows good charge although it does drop when I turn the key.
This time I jumped the selenoid and it started right up.
However, now when I release the brake it shuts off immediately.

Connections look good everywhere.

I zip tied the switch to detect that the brake was on always , it starts and moves fine now however NOW ...
when I engage the PTO it stops suddenly. When the pto is engaged, the switch actually releases vs being depress as it is with the brake. So it's not stalling, it's being shut off.

ANY suggestions here?
 

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Don't know anything about your tractor, sorry. But do you have a drawing of the electrical system. Maybe you have a bad neutral safety switch somewhere. I say this because of your PTO comment. Also on the long shot- possibly a faulty ignition switch as well. Just my uneducated guess. Keep checking here sooner or later someone will come to your rescue. :morning2:
 

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Ground?

Check the battery ground cable where it attaches to the frame or engine. Make sure the connection is clean and tight. Happened to me once, caused some of the same problems.
 

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Check the battery ground cable where it attaches to the frame or engine. Make sure the connection is clean and tight. Happened to me once, caused some of the same problems.
Very good suggestion. Ground cable often overlooked & can cause a lot of intermitent issues.:thumbup1gif:
 

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seat safety switch could be causing the PTO to shut off
 

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Does that happen to have an electric PTO on it?

Just for grins and giggles.... Do you have a battery charger? If so, charge up your battery using the charger. If you don't have one, remove the battery from the tractor and charge it from your car using jumper cables. After it's fully charged, put the battery back in the tractor and see if it runs correctly.

If that works, I'd suspect that you have either a bad voltage regulator or an alternator (stator) that is weak. Your charging system may be putting out enough to keep a "good" battery charged enough for a couple of weeks but not enough to actually fully re-charge it. Over time your battery gets weaker and weaker.

My guess here is that when you release your brake or engage the PTO the battery just doesn't have enough power in reserve for the surge and your voltage immediately drops to nothing. That, in turn, leaves you without enough juice to give you spark at your spark plug and the engine dies.
 

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Does that happen to have an electric PTO on it?

Just for grins and giggles.... Do you have a battery charger? If so, charge up your battery using the charger. If you don't have one, remove the battery from the tractor and charge it from your car using jumper cables. After it's fully charged, put the battery back in the tractor and see if it runs correctly.

If that works, I'd suspect that you have either a bad voltage regulator or an alternator (stator) that is weak. Your charging system may be putting out enough to keep a "good" battery charged enough for a couple of weeks but not enough to actually fully re-charge it. Over time your battery gets weaker and weaker.

My guess here is that when you release your brake or engage the PTO the battery just doesn't have enough power in reserve for the surge and your voltage immediately drops to nothing. That, in turn, leaves you without enough juice to give you spark at your spark plug and the engine dies.
:thumbup1gif:
 

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Dirty connections...

I had some issues where my 1026R would just shut off, like you pulled the key out!
Fortunately my son was here that wires fire trucks & figured it out right away.
The contacts to both the key switch & the PTO were dirty where the switch plugs into the electrical connector on the back. (please see pics)

We pulled them apart, cleaned them & greased them with dielectric grease & put them back together.
That worked for many months until a very humid day this summer when it did it again, however this time after reading here in GTT I found the wires to the fuel solenoid were arcing against the sharp corner of the engine block (please see pic.)

I hope this helps!!

20140712_143340.jpg 20140712_143425.jpg 20140712_143248.jpg 20140713_094417.jpg

When I pulled the wires away from the block, you could see arc marks on the nicked insulation. A plastic wire tie now holds it away from the block.
 
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