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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have replaced this switch twice, the switch will last roughly two-three hours before it quits. Any recommendation for a substitute.
 

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Ranger John,

Which switch? a photo would go a long way. Thanks

Dave
 

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The switch should have a rating printed somewhere on it. You need to exceed those specifications or install a relay controlled by the switch to operate your unspecified device.
 

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One thing to make sure of is that the switch is rated for DC current, AC rated switches will not last. A DC rated switch is not as common as the DC Switches you find at the local hardware store. You will have a better chance at an auto parts store. The current rating will be the most important specification for the switch. I can only think of three types of load in a cab and they will be the wipers about 3-6 amps, lights any where from a couple of amps to near 20 depending on what you install for lighting and the heater which can easily run near 20 amps. Your fuses for the circuits will tell you what switch capacity you should look for. Over kill on the switch capacity will allow the switch to have a longer life. Carling is one switch manufacturer I would recommend you check out, they are a common switch manufacturer and came in my TekTite Cab.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The heater switch in question is a "rocker switch M 173421" with High, low, and neutral settings. Cab heater kit, BM 25033 / M 171008,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One thing to make sure of is that the switch is rated for DC current, AC rated switches will not last. A DC rated switch is not as common as the DC Switches you find at the local hardware store. You will have a better chance at an auto parts store. The current rating will be the most important specification for the switch. I can only think of three types of load in a cab and they will be the wipers about 3-6 amps, lights any where from a couple of amps to near 20 depending on what you install for lighting and the heater which can easily run near 20 amps. Your fuses for the circuits will tell you what switch capacity you should look for. Over kill on the switch capacity will allow the switch to have a longer life. Carling is one switch manufacturer I would recommend you check out, they are a common switch manufacturer and came in my TekTite Cab.
Thank you for your recommendation of Carling, the current switch(s) are listed as per the cab heater kit.
 

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Here is their web site and I attached their catalog.
Rocker Switches | carlingtech.com
one thing to remember is most manufacturers will use the bare minimum to get by with and as long as most items make it through the warranty period they have done their job as far as they are concerned.
 

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Installing a relay would allow you to use a 12v switch that has a low amp rating. You could also use thinner wires since the coil side usually only draws .3 amps. Obviously the supply and consumer side would need the appropriate sized wire.
 

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The Carling switches (bought from "Theswitchguys" )are rated for 20A at 12v. If you need more than that use a relay.
 

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Typically, the heater fan on the Curtis heater draws very little. Under 2 amps if I recall, maybe even under 1 amp. In any event, the switch rated at 20A is more than adequate. If a switch is only lasting 2 or 3 hours, I'd be investigating other issues as to why. Bad blower motor? Something else on the circuit? Short/nick in the wiring? etc. There is the chance that the OP just happened to get 2 bad switches, but at this point I'm thinking other things need to be looked at that could possibly be contributing factors.
 
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I totally agree with Kylew, I also have the Curtis cab with the heater that came with the unit and I have never blown a fuse or the high low off rocker switch.. Look for something else causing this issue. Sounds like the culprit is between the motor and the switch if you're not blowing fuses. Could be a faulty connection/plug too. Hard to believe the switch with buying 2 is the issue. When you say it quits, exactly what do you mean,, it just stops working or does a fuse blow? Does it smoke prior to not working? You can certainly bypass that switch and install what has been described already. But check everything else first. especially the motor.
Jeff
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I totally agree with Kylew, I also have the Curtis cab with the heater that came with the unit and I have never blown a fuse or the high low off rocker switch.. Look for something else causing this issue. Sounds like the culprit is between the motor and the switch if you're not blowing fuses. Could be a faulty connection/plug too. Hard to believe the switch with buying 2 is the issue. When you say it quits, exactly what do you mean,, it just stops working or does a fuse blow? Does it smoke prior to not working? You can certainly bypass that switch and install what has been described already. But check everything else first. especially the motor.
Jeff
Excellent info, I had purchased this JD second hand so I have no knowledge of the installation. I will investigate the wiring thoroughly before installing a new switch.
 

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Excellent info, I had purchased this JD second hand so I have no knowledge of the installation. I will investigate the wiring thoroughly before installing a new switch.
Check out the wiring thoroughly, when they run the wiring to the cab under the tractor you may have as Kyle stated; a nick in the wire. I am guessing this is on a X700 or similar X model series tractor and you have to undo (tip the heater forward) to get the cleaning screen out and that may be where the problem exists, that switch comes apart pretty easily when you tip the heater.. I could also be all washed up with your tractor too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Check out the wiring thoroughly, when they run the wiring to the cab under the tractor you may have as Kyle stated; a nick in the wire. I am guessing this is on a X700 or similar X model series tractor and you have to undo (tip the heater forward) to get the cleaning screen out and that may be where the problem exists, that switch comes apart pretty easily when you tip the heater.. I could also be all washed up with your tractor too?
Thanks for the help. Yes it is an X 738 model.
 

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Thanks for the help. Yes it is an X 738 model.
Same as mine so really check the wring near the heater. Where it comes into the cab. You can also check the motor by bypassing the switch and if that works you will know it's not the heater motor. That will make life so much easier.
Have you taken out the two holding knobs and disconnected the heater from the cab support and tilted it forward yet to clean the pull out screen? If so you will see what I mean and sometimes the switch comes out of it's holder and the connection comes apart, there could be a wire in that connector, touching something, (I don't think you can reverse the connector).. They don't give you much room or wire to stretch it out when tilting the heater.
Disconnecting the water lines and all that will be a chore on that machine install if you have to change that all out.
Good luck and please get back to us when you find out what the issue is.
Jeff
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Same as mine so really check the wring near the heater. Where it comes into the cab. You can also check the motor by bypassing the switch and if that works you will know it's not the heater motor. That will make life so much easier.
Have you taken out the two holding knobs and disconnected the heater from the cab support and tilted it forward yet to clean the pull out screen? If so you will see what I mean and sometimes the switch comes out of it's holder and the connection comes apart, there could be a wire in that connector, touching something, (I don't think you can reverse the connector).. They don't give you much room or wire to stretch it out when tilting the heater.
Disconnecting the water lines and all that will be a chore on that machine install if you have to change that all out.
Good luck and please get back to us when you find out what the issue is.
Jeff
The fan works great when the switch works. I do believe there is a nick in the wiring heater group somewhere between the battery connection and the heater switch. The electrical connection between the actual switch and the female connector is tight. I have removed the two holding knobs and checked the fan/screen, no problem. Question, turning off the tractor also kills the power to this switch is this normal. I remember reading an article that stated power for the heater came directly from the battery connection. Which caused the battery to run down when the switch was left on.
 

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Question, turning off the tractor also kills the power to this switch is this normal. I remember reading an article that stated power for the heater came directly from the battery connection. Which caused the battery
You can have it wired either way. Typically it's better to wire it so the switch only has power with the key on, so it doesn't drain the battery if left on and the tractor off.
 
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Kyle is correct, either way. Mine is direct to the battery and will run with the key off.. Bought it that way.

Look particularly close to where the wire comes into the cab, I see where that could be an issue. I hope all it is, is a nick for you.
Otherwise the fuse block may have an issue on the application?
 
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