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Discussion Starter #1
Been researching this subject for the past two weeks or so. Will be buying and enclosed trailer come spring to move across country. A Cargo Trailer is mostly a light-weight trailer limited to light cargo?, and an Auto Enclosed Trailer is more geared to a Heavy Duty application with more weight carrying capacity? The plan is to acquire one in the 20' range for Household items including some furniture and the outdoor equipment. Second aspect is which brand? Seems the reviews I read online are decades old and not current. Seems that Wells Cargo has the best user friendly website. Haulmark is ok on theirs..... Options that I should buy or look for? Axle ratings?
Thanks and look forward to the input.
 

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I only know a little about these but I'd think like any other trailer, look at GVWR and empty weight. The difference between them is what you can load it up with.

One thing I did learn the hard way - buy one with an "RV Style" door for the side door.
 

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I own a Haulmark 8.5x18 dual axle cargo trailer. Things to think about. Make sure it is torsion axles not leaf spring. The auto trailer will have a ramp door which is nice to walk straight up and in though the last 4 feet then is a dove tail angle. I have a cargo trailer barn doors and not an auto hauler I made ramps that I secure to the side wall. That way I do not need as much rear clearance and have quick access if needed. Get the extra height 6" to 1" higher then standard so you don't bang your head and taller pieces of furniture will stand up inside. My 1025r fits in with the ROPS lowered. I have an extra 6" height. Get E-track installed front to back 2 levels if not three to secure things. 36" side door makes side loading or getting to things helpful too. Get the extended tongue so that when you jack knife a 90 degree turn you do not have a chance of crashing the trailer into your truck. If you are running only a single rear wheel pickup and not dually I would suggest looking into a weight distribution bar and anti-sway control bar in the front unless you can be really good about weight distribution of your belongings in the trailer. remember ideally you want only about 15% of the load on your tongue. I will take some pictures of my interior when I have a chance.
 

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Are you planning on using it after?
When we moved from CA to CO we used ABF-you pack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you planning on using it after?
When we moved from CA to CO we used ABF-you pack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes... to transport the 1026R, ATV's, Antique Furniture.... etc.
 

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Generally speaking, the ramp of a regular "enclosed" trailer is the weak point. Make sure it is rated for the weight of whatever you plan on hauling.

Car/Auto hauling trailers are generally built heavier as they are designed for it. A standard enclosed with upgraded axles should haul a SCUT without issue though. Just be cautious of placement in trailer, and additional attachments loaded.

As stated above, multiple runs of E-trac is an excellent suggestion. Both on the floor and the sidewalls.
 

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Hmmmmm, the Mouse family is moving from one Witness Protection Program location to another.:laugh:

My dad has had 3 different Wells Cargo trailers for his business. They have all been great trailers. He puts quite a load in them occasionally, but not to the extent of a 1026R TLB and ATV, etc. He has found the dealer makes all the difference as he hasn't bought each one at the same place. However, with you moving, that isn't going to help you much.
 

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Hmmmmm, the Mouse family is moving from one Witness Protection Program location to another.:laugh:

My dad has had 3 different Wells Cargo trailers for his business. They have all been great trailers. He puts quite a load in them occasionally, but not to the extent of a 1026R TLB and ATV, etc. He has found the dealer makes all the difference as he hasn't bought each one at the same place. However, with you moving, that isn't going to help you much.
great sanmich minds must work at the same time:laugh::lol: I was thinking the same thoughts as u CP.
 

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The details mentioned above on how to configure a trailer are excellent. I agree with getting a 7' ceiling height for what you plan to use it for. If you get 3500 lb. capacity axles the maximum gross trailer weight loaded will be 7k lbs. with 5200 lb. axles you'll be at about 1k gross trailer weight. Check the empty trailer weight and then you'll know what your maximum payload is. I found aluminum trailers were not much lighter than steel framed trailers as the size of the frame members needs to be larger to provide the same capacity trailer. I really like the rivet free exterior skin personally.

I just bought an enclosed trailer a month ago after about 10 weeks of internet research and going to dealers and getting competing bits for different brands and models. Payload is the key factor I was dealing with and I actually oversized my trailer from a 10K to a 12k rating to give me heavier duty, larger tires for long distance travel. My trailer has a 26' rectangular box size plus a 32" V section in front. I haul my Honda GL1800 trike and my Toyota Rav4 in this trailer behind my Diesel Pusher RV.

Depending on where you live finding a trailer on the dealer lot may be an issue an you'll have to order the configuration you want. I looked at Well Cargo, Hallmark, Stealth, ATC (Aluminum Trailer Company), and several others. In the end I tracked down a new Stealth with the configuration I wanted 250 miles away on a dealer lot and saved about $6k over special ordering.

Best of luck to you..

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The details mentioned above on how to configure a trailer are excellent. I agree with getting a 7' ceiling height for what you plan to use it for. If you get 3500 lb. capacity axles the maximum gross trailer weight loaded will be 7k lbs. with 5200 lb. axles you'll be at about 1k gross trailer weight. Check the empty trailer weight and then you'll know what your maximum payload is. I found aluminum trailers were not much lighter than steel framed trailers as the size of the frame members needs to be larger to provide the same capacity trailer. I really like the rivet free exterior skin personally.

I just bought an enclosed trailer a month ago after about 10 weeks of internet research and going to dealers and getting competing bits for different brands and models. Payload is the key factor I was dealing with and I actually oversized my trailer from a 10K to a 12k rating to give me heavier duty, larger tires for long distance travel. My trailer has a 26' rectangular box size plus a 32" V section in front. I haul my Honda GL1800 trike and my Toyota Rav4 in this trailer behind my Diesel Pusher RV.

Depending on where you live finding a trailer on the dealer lot may be an issue an you'll have to order the configuration you want. I looked at Well Cargo, Hallmark, Stealth, ATC (Aluminum Trailer Company), and several others. In the end I tracked down a new Stealth with the configuration I wanted 250 miles away on a dealer lot and saved about $6k over special ordering.

Best of luck to you..




Dave
Thank You.... Great information here. Rear cargo door height may be problematic.... A quick measurement this morning in the barn and the Cabbed 26R came in at 7' high. Will remeasure soon. I just may have to remove the Cab off and go from there. I don't think it's problematic to remove the cab.... Redirect heater hoses, disconnect power and remove the floor to cab bolts? just some quick thoughts. Oh, and somehow lift the Cab off the tractor. Always something. AW2024 Wells Cargo is the model I'm homing in on.
 

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Thank You.... Great information here. Rear cargo door height may be problematic.... A quick measurement this morning in the barn and the Cabbed 26R came in at 7' high. Will remeasure soon. I just may have to remove the Cab off and go from there. I don't think it's problematic to remove the cab.... Redirect heater hoses, disconnect power and remove the floor to cab bolts? just some quick thoughts. Oh, and somehow lift the Cab off the tractor. Always something. AW2024 Wells Cargo is the model I'm homing in on.
I looked at the model you mentioned and that looks like a nice configuration. I would check with a dealer and see if they allow ordering extended height as an option. Several of the ones I looked at had the base model at 6'6" and I could order a 6" or 12" additional height. The 12" additional height would fit your tractor with cab easily. I have a soft side cab on my 2320 and it's easy to remove and then with the ROPS down I can fit in a 6'6" ceiling height. I seriously thought about ordering the extra 12 in height but would add a lot of wind resistance when I pull it with my .5 ton truck.

Dave
 

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Thank You.... Great information here. Rear cargo door height may be problematic.... A quick measurement this morning in the barn and the Cabbed 26R came in at 7' high. Will remeasure soon. I just may have to remove the Cab off and go from there. I don't think it's problematic to remove the cab.... Redirect heater hoses, disconnect power and remove the floor to cab bolts? just some quick thoughts. Oh, and somehow lift the Cab off the tractor. Always something. AW2024 Wells Cargo is the model I'm homing in on.
I would definitely try and find a trailer that will be high enough to fit your tractor with the cab on. Inevitably you will have an emergency or brake down. Then need to get your tractor in without worrying about removing the cab. Especially if you have a hard cab. You can also modify your work and or warning lights to help with clearance.

Back when I had my 1995 Ford F-350 Crew Cab DRW I'd tow my friends 24' enclosed car trailer. It had the beaver tail back door that dropped down in the rear. Made loading/unloading a car way easier. That truck would pull the trailer no problem whatsoever. Your truck should have no problems with a trailer this big.

Another thing that I suggested to him was installing a winch inside the trailer. I mounted a Warn 3,500# winch to a steel plate as wide as the inside of the trailer. Then we bolted the plate to the metal frame of the trailer. It was up against the front wall. Then I installed a plastic universal battery box against the right front wall. Before hooking up the deep cycle battery I changed the wiring around. This way the battery would power the inside lights without being plugged into the truck. It would also power the winch. When the trailer is hooked up the truck alternator would charge the battery. I installed a 1.25 amp battery tender too keep the battery charged when not hooked up.

A lot of his car projects involved non running vehicles for one reason or another. Not having to push the car in was worth all the extra work. We even used the winch on some running vehicles because it was just easier. The heaviest car we towed was his brother's 1968 Hemi Road Runner. The winch pulled it in no problem.
 

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I have a 28 foot haulmark and have had it since 2007. I have used it to move 5 times, four of them cross country. I have also used it to haul just about anything and everything to include my 2210, more times than I can count. It is rated at 10k and it will carry significantly more than that but at the expense of drastically shortened tire life. I probably have close to 50k miles on it, so I have gotten my money's worth out of it.

The only thing I would do different is get plywood walls for the inside. I have thin white walls on the inside and they have multiple battle scars. I have the EZ track as well. I have a ramp door, a side walk thru door and then a side door over the fender on the driver's side of the trailer. Makes it pretty easy to get out of vehicle that way.

If you do get the trailer, get two spare tires, and trailer buddy that allows you to drive up on one axle so you change the tire on the other. Unless you have a really big bottle jack a floor jack will not lift a loaded trailer to change that flat tire.

Someone mentioned the ramp is the weak part. I tend to agree, I have had new ramp hinges welded on a couple of times. The other ones simply rotted or cracked. The door spring is also somewhat sensitive. It is important you level out that ramp when you lower it so it doesn't get tweaked.

The one good thing about haulmark is you can order all the spare parts you need from them minus the axle. I lost a hub on my move from Texas to NC (it is somewhere on I20 in Alabama) and it ruined the whole axle. I had to contact Dexter axle direct on that, once they figured out what I needed they sent it pretty quick. The hub died because an axle bearing seized even though I had greased them before my trip. I think the zerk was jammed with dirt and thus did not allow enough grease to get by and lube the bearings properly. Even though I was down a wheel with a fully loaded trailer, I never felt it leave the trailer. I only knew when someone waved at me. I have a distribution hitch and I run a dually so the trailer tows real smooth, provided you do not have a lot of weight on the end of it. If you keep it over or in front of the axles it tows very nice.

As far as what brand to get, personal preference and budget will determine that. As far as size goes, get the biggest one your truck can pull and your wallet can afford.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
All good points so far. Question: If I get a "Taller" box, will the "Ramp Door" be proportionately taller to accommodate the tractor? I'm assuming so at this point. Being that where I'm located, I'm hoping there is an Orphan on the Dealers lot rather than having to order one. Yes, on the EZ-Track. Is the EZ-Track a better option than D-Rings? Guessing so, due to the EZ-Track allowing more mounting options for straps? Some say stay away from a Box Trailer that has "Springs" on the axle and go for the "Tortion Bar" suspension. Any input here?
 

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For all you are desiring, i would look at one car race car hauler trailers.
They obviously come in different sizes.
They have heavy ramp doors, tie down points, side door(very convenient), brakes, two axles, roof storage is optional too.
Hey, just trying to help you spend your money.:gizmo:
 

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All good points so far. Question: If I get a "Taller" box, will the "Ramp Door" be proportionately taller to accommodate the tractor? I'm assuming so at this point. Being that where I'm located, I'm hoping there is an Orphan on the Dealers lot rather than having to order one. Yes, on the EZ-Track. Is the EZ-Track a better option than D-Rings? Guessing so, due to the EZ-Track allowing more mounting options for straps? Some say stay away from a Box Trailer that has "Springs" on the axle and go for the "Tortion Bar" suspension. Any input here?
Forgot to mention that I also put 4 sections of EX track in the floor. I think each one was 8' long. If you are just moving large items like a car or tractor D rings would be fine. When you haul other items is when the EZ track really pays off. On my current 6'X10' open landscape trailer I had the dealer weld & bolt on 4 heavy D rings to the corners of the floor. They are perfect for hauling around my X540. On smaller loads I usually tie them to the side rail. However you won't have this opinion on an enclosed trailer.

I did use his 8'X24' trailer once to move all my stuff around 50 miles. This worked perfectly since I didn't have a new home picked out yet. I loaded everything but my day to day stuff in the trailer. Then he left me park it back at his house until I was ready weeks later. Then I hauled absolutely everything I owned to my new house in one trip.

If you are planning to move any distance you are on the right track with an enclosed trailer. When I had that truck I helped a friend move about 30 miles one way. He wanted to move it all just using my truck. I said no way. Then I took him to U-Haul so he could rent the biggest double axel enclosed trailer that they had. If I remember correctly it didn't even cost him $100. We were able to move everything in 2 trips. When the first load got to the new home we unloaded the stuff from my truck bed to underneath his car port. Immediately after a heavy rain storm moved in. The wind was so bad that the neighbors shingles were standing at attention. If we had an open trailer all his stuff would have been soaked. In the end he was happy I talked him into the trailer.
 

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Keep in mind a couple of things for general reference:

- The taller and longer the trailer overall, the larger the cross-section that the wind has to push against. Lower profile / lower cross-section is less susceptible to being pushed around by drafts from semi's, high winds on bridges, etc.

- Buying a trailer for a specific purpose (moving) and then re-using for other tasks later may not ultimately be in your best interest. You may end up having to make a choice between using a transport trailer for moving or using a moving trailer for transporting.

- Given point #2, I would suggest you look at how much it will cost to buy the trailer you need for -after- your move and then look at the costs associated with moving to add to it. Compare that with buying "the wrong" trailer for the long-term, selling it after you move, and buying the right trailer at that point anyway. Don't forget to add in value for your time and frustration by going through multiple rounds of trailer purchasing. :)

- Also look at what it would cost you to buy a quality-built used trailer that will suffice for moving and then selling it afterward and buying your longer-term use trailer once you're there.

- E-Track is good stuff, but anything needing to be truly "secured" needs to be attached to the floor and not the walls.
 
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