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Discussion Starter #1
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Landscape rake with gauge wheels should be in Friday. Purchased the LR 2060L. Once I'm done and get my property under control, I felt I needed a lighter rake for the perimeter where my open space meets the brush and light work. Hope I didn't screw up and should have gotten a heavier rake. Been using my Bush Hog box blade. Should have raked it first than started grading but used what I had. Topped the tractor off with fuel, washed the radiator and screen, greased the zerks again, 50 hour complete service done and picked up 20 gallons of diesel! Going to get up at 05:00 hundred hours and hopefully crawl in at dusk like a scene from the, "the grapes of wrath"!

Have a 54" front blower and want to get a back blade and cut a rubber strip from a tractor supply horse mat. Still debating what to do. I really don't need a rear blade for grading, I have a 5 foot and a 4 foot box blade. Really don't know weather to get a county line and beat it into position or buy a frontier, Everything attachments, Land pride etc. want to have a rear blade in service with the rubber strip for old man winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sideway pictures

If anyone will teach me how to post pictures in proper position, would appreciate. It's driving me nuts.
 

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Looks like you are having fun. Just keep a few cans of diesel fuel around.:greentractorride::bigthumb:
 

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Regarding the blade, a box blade can't do much for snow. A rear blade can move material sideways which is better for snow, crowning a road and cutting ditches. A rear blade can also angle, a box blade can't. You can tilt your three point hitch with either, but a rear blade gives you more options.

As for what brand, they're not precision tools but they shouldn't be overly sloppy either. A little play is normal but without seeing what you're talking about on the County Line blades I'm afraid I don't quite understand where the problem is other than something doesn't line up quite right.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
56ford

When I looked at the rear blades at tractor supply, They were all standing upright in the yard. I went there for some odds and ends and after loading my truck with my son, I decided to eye ball the rear blades. I stood over at least ten and sighted the bar in relation to the blade and they were way off. As I posted in a previous post, it was like they were attached to a three point hitch, and the blade was welded crooked in relation to the tractor, and I mean way way off.

I know the box blade has nothing to do with snow. I probably should have worded it better. What I was trying to say is I probably won't need a rear blade for other than cleaning up after the front blower. However, If I'm going to get a rear blade for the snow, I should probably get a decent quality one that I could use for both snow and earth work.
 

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When you say the bar is tilted- which bar? The main tube of the blade? Which way is it tilted? If the blade were on the tractor and the tube perfectly level, would the blade be angled down side to side, angled up or down front to back or turned sideways like you would turn it to move material?
 

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When I looked at the rear blades at tractor supply, They were all standing upright in the yard. I went there for some odds and ends and after loading my truck with my son, I decided to eye ball the rear blades. I stood over at least ten and sighted the bar in relation to the blade and they were way off. As I posted in a previous post, it was like they were attached to a three point hitch, and the blade was welded crooked in relation to the tractor, and I mean way way off.

I know the box blade has nothing to do with snow. I probably should have worded it better. What I was trying to say is I probably won't need a rear blade for other than cleaning up after the front blower. However, If I'm going to get a rear blade for the snow, I should probably get a decent quality one that I could use for both snow and earth work.
Nice and convenient that Tractor Supply is at Cox's Corner no?:laugh:
I keep eyeballing the rear 3 point booms there in the parking lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
56

First, thanks again for taking the time to help, really appreciate. I'm new to tractors so learning. They stood up with the blade down. I sighted the lower bar on the three point hitch where the bolt on pins are, in relation to the blade. They should be parallel. They were way way off. I'm not talking about an inch over 5 feet. They were all off between 3-5 inches.
 

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You have been busy. Your backyard will look wonderful once it is all done. I just saw sign for a new Tractor Supply coming to the East Windsor/ Monroe border in the near future right at Rt 33 and Applegarth Road. Site prep is under way now so I am guessing 6-9 months.
 

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Tilt

First, thanks again for taking the time to help, really appreciate. I'm new to tractors so learning. They stood up with the blade down. I sighted the lower bar on the three point hitch where the bolt on pins are, in relation to the blade. They should be parallel. They were way way off. I'm not talking about an inch over 5 feet. They were all off between 3-5 inches.
If the blades are parallel to the pins, that's clearly bad construction but my guess is the hitch was tilted slightly from side to side. That's pretty normal with a blade on the ground and the hitch in the air as the alignment pins have to have some slop or it's difficult to install them as you turn the blade.
That's just a guess.

Treefarmer
 

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If the blades are parallel to the pins, that's clearly bad construction but my guess is the hitch was tilted slightly from side to side. That's pretty normal with a blade on the ground and the hitch in the air as the alignment pins have to have some slop or it's difficult to install them as you turn the blade.
That's just a guess.

Treefarmer
That is my thought as well.
Next time you are there see how far the hitch portion will rock from one side to the other. I will bet you find it moves a couple of degrees.
 

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I use windows photo viewer and if the photo is in the correct orientation with this program then it will post proper. Here they are rotated for you.
 

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I think eventually making a drag mat with a piece of chain link fence 6' wide and 6'-7' long with a angle iron at the front end with chains running to the rear hitch will help also smooth out your surface.

Ideally renting for a day a bobcat or tractor with enough PTO to use a power landscape rake to channel all the impurities to one edge of the property would be ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for straightening the pics!

Waiting for my three point hitch linkage part to come in, my landscape rake is suppose to be in tomorro. Got the gauge wheels too. My neighbor has a horse track for his trotters next door to me and he mentioned I could borrow his drag implement. Don't know what else to call it. He described it as kind of a heavy chain mat that they drag around and level the trac! But it sounded like thier was more to it than the chains. I'm new so didn't really understand as he quickly described his implements.

hopefully my part will be in and I will be driving home with a new landscape rake and wheels tomorro!
 
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